Suspension BC coilovers installed (how-to & feedback)
Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,349
Likes: 2
From: Concord, California
Is anyone getting a clunking from the rear upper pillowball mounts on the BC's? Mine have been clunking over bumpers. I've triple checked that they're tight and I checked out the spherical bearing which looked good.
Anyone experiencing the same noise from the BC rear upper mounts? Has anyone found any tricks to cure this?
Anyone experiencing the same noise from the BC rear upper mounts? Has anyone found any tricks to cure this?
The rear Pillow ***** do not have to be lubed ...a bit of something slippery wont hurt.
I have helped 2 folks with noises just lately.
One over the phone and the other at a local track day.
Both were rear control arm issues.
1 was loose and the other had a bad bearing/ bushing ...
5th Gear
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 845
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found the pics of the newer model BC coilovers. its confirmed: i have the old version of the BC coilovers. so hit me with the bad news...what's the diff between having the rear aluminum top hat vs the OEM top hat?
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6th Gear
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,349
Likes: 2
From: Concord, California
Your fine ...
The new style with rear Pillow ***** just do away with the rubber pressed system . VERY similar to what you had on the front.
The rubber does give a less direct feel. although they can/ do make noise.
The rubber will eventually become damaged (like we see on the front a lot)
Suspension as I have said before is a compromise.
I have found that it is often very misunderstood & do not profess to know it all.
Coilovers especially ride height adjustable and ride adjustable ... are not just bolt in replacement parts.
The new style with rear Pillow ***** just do away with the rubber pressed system . VERY similar to what you had on the front.
The rubber does give a less direct feel. although they can/ do make noise.
The rubber will eventually become damaged (like we see on the front a lot)
Suspension as I have said before is a compromise.
I have found that it is often very misunderstood & do not profess to know it all.
Coilovers especially ride height adjustable and ride adjustable ... are not just bolt in replacement parts.
5th Gear
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 845
Likes: 0
thanks for the input, COR BLMY 
i think i can live with the OEM rear top hats for now. i'll take care of the holes for the adjuster soon. for now, they're 10 clicks from full soft.
i'm trying to figure out how to set up the BC coilovers for bumpy & undulating canyon roads (with the 19mm sway bar in stiff). hmmm..
i think i can live with the OEM rear top hats for now. i'll take care of the holes for the adjuster soon. for now, they're 10 clicks from full soft.i'm trying to figure out how to set up the BC coilovers for bumpy & undulating canyon roads (with the 19mm sway bar in stiff). hmmm..
Thanks a lot to Brian and the rest of you guys for trying to help me pinpoint the strange noise I'm getting from my suspension. Last weekend, I uninstalled the front coilovers and wrapped the springs with a pair of Tein rubber silencers on each side to prevent the coil bind. I also noticed the springs have various diameters going from the bottom to the top and is not what Brian refers to as a "standard" spring. In addition, I also swapped out the stock front end links with some Alta adjustable ones. I noticed one of the stock front end links was pulled a part at the bottom joint on the passengers side that I was happy to replace.
To sum things up, 90% of the noise is gone, but I can still hear it. I'm not well versed in explaining suspension, but what other possibilities could it be? I don't think it's the coilovers anymore since they look completely normal when I took them off the car. Please help.
To sum things up, 90% of the noise is gone, but I can still hear it. I'm not well versed in explaining suspension, but what other possibilities could it be? I don't think it's the coilovers anymore since they look completely normal when I took them off the car. Please help.
2nd Gear
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 120
Likes: 0
i am seriously considering the the BC/swift combo on my R53, and i have a few questions? I have a fully loaded mini sunroof, h/k, ect... Is the 8/6kg still OK? What is the minimum drop on these? (i want like 1/2 to 1" max) What is the max camber at the minimum drop? i run 17x7 et45 with 215/45/14 in both summer and winter (TD PR1 and s-lites). Will i need to worry about rubbing with the swift springs? Will i need drop links? Has anyone tried the RAM inverted coil-overs? (just curious, easier adj **** access) Does anyone sell them? (on BC site but the usual retailer don't have them) -Jonathan
FYI....I had the same "toink" noise that sounded like a spring problem. First I heard it on the right, front and then it was on both sides. I would only hear it when I was backing out of my driveway, on a slight decline, when I turned the wheel.
BC said is sounded like the pillow ball assemblies had gone bad. I bought two new ones at $60 each and had them replaced. The noise is gone and everything is back to normal. The folks at BC in Orlando (Casselberry) were great too. When we realized one of the pillow ***** they sent me was the wrong one, someone from BC drove and met me in Orlando to make the exchange so I could keep my scheduled install.
BC said is sounded like the pillow ball assemblies had gone bad. I bought two new ones at $60 each and had them replaced. The noise is gone and everything is back to normal. The folks at BC in Orlando (Casselberry) were great too. When we realized one of the pillow ***** they sent me was the wrong one, someone from BC drove and met me in Orlando to make the exchange so I could keep my scheduled install.
Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,349
Likes: 2
From: Concord, California
Hi "00zero"
If you do any track , auto-X or often "spirited" driving the 8/6 is a great combo.
Gotta say the last 2 sets of BCs , I had the springs tested. .. there are testing very even and within 5lbs of stated rate. IMHO the need for springs is not there ,,,
The minimum drop is OEM height . (actually you can lift) your 1/2 to 1", is well withing the ride height range.
I used a 3mm spacer from a BBK kit and the S lites fit. 5mm spacer is low price and only needed on the front...
Max camber is just below-3 (on the auto -X car we run -2.8)
Yon need to use the right 4 hole combo on the camber plates to do this.
You do not have to get end links but at 1" drop they will allow you to run the sway bars "level" and that is desirable.
The Ram for the MINI are not available.
If you do any track , auto-X or often "spirited" driving the 8/6 is a great combo.
Gotta say the last 2 sets of BCs , I had the springs tested. .. there are testing very even and within 5lbs of stated rate. IMHO the need for springs is not there ,,,
The minimum drop is OEM height . (actually you can lift) your 1/2 to 1", is well withing the ride height range.
I used a 3mm spacer from a BBK kit and the S lites fit. 5mm spacer is low price and only needed on the front...
Max camber is just below-3 (on the auto -X car we run -2.8)
Yon need to use the right 4 hole combo on the camber plates to do this.
You do not have to get end links but at 1" drop they will allow you to run the sway bars "level" and that is desirable.
The Ram for the MINI are not available.
2nd Gear
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 120
Likes: 0
Thanks for all the info.
Is the 5mm spacer for the beehive in the spring or is there other interference?
is the ride on this setup as good as everyone says it can be?
I am looking at all my options and it seems that for the best balance of ride, handling, price that the BC are hard to beat.
-Jonathan
Is the 5mm spacer for the beehive in the spring or is there other interference?
is the ride on this setup as good as everyone says it can be?
I am looking at all my options and it seems that for the best balance of ride, handling, price that the BC are hard to beat.
-Jonathan
Last edited by 00zero; Apr 21, 2010 at 04:37 AM.
Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,349
Likes: 2
From: Concord, California
Thanks for all the info.
Is the 5mm spacer for the beehive in the spring or is there other interference?
is the ride on this setup as good as everyone says it can be?
I am looking at all my options and it seems that for the best balance of ride, handling, price that the BC are hard to beat.
-Jonathan
Is the 5mm spacer for the beehive in the spring or is there other interference?
is the ride on this setup as good as everyone says it can be?
I am looking at all my options and it seems that for the best balance of ride, handling, price that the BC are hard to beat.
-Jonathan
The build and materials are really very good.
The camber plates and rear Pillow ***** are nice stuff.
The ride can be very good with drop and, please remember the springs are stiffer than OEM.
With correct Pre-Install set up (spring pre-load and unit check)
correct install, and, setting correctly. I offer help and info on all 3. these are amazing for $999
I have had some complaints and ALL have come from people not doing the set-up, install& settings correctly.
I started selling these AFTER I installed them because they are hard to beat
FYI....I had the same "toink" noise that sounded like a spring problem. First I heard it on the right, front and then it was on both sides. I would only hear it when I was backing out of my driveway, on a slight decline, when I turned the wheel.
BC said is sounded like the pillow ball assemblies had gone bad. I bought two new ones at $60 each and had them replaced. The noise is gone and everything is back to normal. The folks at BC in Orlando (Casselberry) were great too. When we realized one of the pillow ***** they sent me was the wrong one, someone from BC drove and met me in Orlando to make the exchange so I could keep my scheduled install.
BC said is sounded like the pillow ball assemblies had gone bad. I bought two new ones at $60 each and had them replaced. The noise is gone and everything is back to normal. The folks at BC in Orlando (Casselberry) were great too. When we realized one of the pillow ***** they sent me was the wrong one, someone from BC drove and met me in Orlando to make the exchange so I could keep my scheduled install.
Are these the pillow ball assemblies you got installed? This is the one I got from BC under warranty, but when BOTH sides started making noise recently, I doubted that was the culprit and did the other stuff I mentioned earlier instead, but the noise didn't go away.
I was able to remove the front coilovers from the car myself and noticed the front/driver's side pillow ball assembly was a lot easier to move than the front/passenger's side. I was going to attempt to replace the front/driver's side, but wasn't exactly sure how to. Brian, can you give me any advice how to do so??? Like I said, I pretty confident removing the front coilover, but just wasn't sure how to replace the pillow ball. The pillow ball assembly that BC sent me has allen screws and the one currently on the coilover has flat headed screws. How exactly do I unscrew the flat headed screws when I can't seem to get a screw driver underneath there???
FYI....I had the same "toink" noise that sounded like a spring problem. First I heard it on the right, front and then it was on both sides. I would only hear it when I was backing out of my driveway, on a slight decline, when I turned the wheel.
BC said is sounded like the pillow ball assemblies had gone bad. I bought two new ones at $60 each and had them replaced. The noise is gone and everything is back to normal. The folks at BC in Orlando (Casselberry) were great too. When we realized one of the pillow ***** they sent me was the wrong one, someone from BC drove and met me in Orlando to make the exchange so I could keep my scheduled install.
BC said is sounded like the pillow ball assemblies had gone bad. I bought two new ones at $60 each and had them replaced. The noise is gone and everything is back to normal. The folks at BC in Orlando (Casselberry) were great too. When we realized one of the pillow ***** they sent me was the wrong one, someone from BC drove and met me in Orlando to make the exchange so I could keep my scheduled install.
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 8,337
Likes: 8
From: oh10
Yah, mine are still making a bunch of noise, too. I went back under there to check everything and still found no noise culprit. Must be the rear pillowballs. Anyone happen to know what spherical bearings they use? They seem to be going bad pretty quickly. Could we replace the pillowball with a higher quality one to avoid the deterioration and related noises?
3rd Gear
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 239
Likes: 0
Hi all,
I just installed BC BR Type RH series, did the aligment and set it middle, i loving it very much.
Two question,
1. Is it rule of thumb, each time I adjust the BC height (lower/raise), I should do the alignment?
2. Is it adviceable when adjusting the BC height without taking off the wheel?
Sorry, newbie question. Pls advice...
Thank you very much
I just installed BC BR Type RH series, did the aligment and set it middle, i loving it very much.
Two question,
1. Is it rule of thumb, each time I adjust the BC height (lower/raise), I should do the alignment?
2. Is it adviceable when adjusting the BC height without taking off the wheel?
Sorry, newbie question. Pls advice...
Thank you very much
Last edited by vodka; Jun 6, 2010 at 08:35 AM.
Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,349
Likes: 2
From: Concord, California
(that does make adjusting difficult . but not imposable . you just have to unbolt the 2 top mount bolts and adjust the **** by feel.)
Hi all,
I just installed BC BR Type RH series, did the aligment and set it middle, i loving it very much.
Two question,
1. Is it rule of thumb, each time I adjust the BC height (lower/raise), I should do the alignment?
>>>Not every time ... once you run the springs. do you alignment. the cool thing is that if you lower a bit it actually moves the camber to a more aggressive setting. so align for street and if you want lower a bit for track. I made some marks on the front Camber Plates where my Track setting is and another mark where my Auto-X setting is . I move it back and forth often ...
2. Is it adviceable when adjusting the BC height without taking off the wheel?
>>>It sure makes it easier and you can keep an eye on the rubber boot to make sure you don't get it all twisted.
REMEMBER once the spring preload is set (2 nuts at the base of the spring)... DO not use that to set ride height.
Set rideheight by backing off the LOWEST of the 3 nuts and the entire unit screws up or down in the lower tube. then lock it down again.
Sorry, newbie question. Pls advice...
Thank you very much
I just installed BC BR Type RH series, did the aligment and set it middle, i loving it very much.
Two question,
1. Is it rule of thumb, each time I adjust the BC height (lower/raise), I should do the alignment?
>>>Not every time ... once you run the springs. do you alignment. the cool thing is that if you lower a bit it actually moves the camber to a more aggressive setting. so align for street and if you want lower a bit for track. I made some marks on the front Camber Plates where my Track setting is and another mark where my Auto-X setting is . I move it back and forth often ...
2. Is it adviceable when adjusting the BC height without taking off the wheel?
>>>It sure makes it easier and you can keep an eye on the rubber boot to make sure you don't get it all twisted.
REMEMBER once the spring preload is set (2 nuts at the base of the spring)... DO not use that to set ride height.
Set rideheight by backing off the LOWEST of the 3 nuts and the entire unit screws up or down in the lower tube. then lock it down again.
Sorry, newbie question. Pls advice...
Thank you very much
3rd Gear
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 239
Likes: 0
Hi everyone,
My BC BR Type RH Series for my 2004 MINI ONE seem too bouncy on the front, the rear is ok and the front spring is 7kg. I tried setting it to the HARDEST (turn to H direction until can't turn anymore) but I still feel it too bouncy when driving uneven road or over the bump.
Any idea how to make it less bouncy? Set the preload - adjust the "B" to make the spring shorter (more compress)?
Oh ya, does the R56 BC can fit R50/R53 as well? *** I notice my BC sticker label, it said R56
If R56 can't fit R50/R53 then I'm safe else they give the the wrong set
Thanks alot
My BC BR Type RH Series for my 2004 MINI ONE seem too bouncy on the front, the rear is ok and the front spring is 7kg. I tried setting it to the HARDEST (turn to H direction until can't turn anymore) but I still feel it too bouncy when driving uneven road or over the bump.
Any idea how to make it less bouncy? Set the preload - adjust the "B" to make the spring shorter (more compress)?
Oh ya, does the R56 BC can fit R50/R53 as well? *** I notice my BC sticker label, it said R56
If R56 can't fit R50/R53 then I'm safe else they give the the wrong set Thanks alot
Last edited by vodka; Jul 4, 2010 at 02:55 PM.
3rd Gear
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 239
Likes: 0
Haha, silly me... now I figure how to set the soft/hard thingy. What I do is I turn to H direction until cant turn anymore (0 position) than I start count the click while I turn to S direction. Now I'm running 20 click from H to S direction, feel less bumpy lol.
It seem like BC soft/hard setting is different from other coilovers? As I remember my old SPAX doesnt set that way...
How abt the R56 on R50/53, can it fit? Any idea..
It seem like BC soft/hard setting is different from other coilovers? As I remember my old SPAX doesnt set that way...
How abt the R56 on R50/53, can it fit? Any idea..
4th Gear
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 413
Likes: 0
From: Brisbane, Australia
Hey Cor,
Got my suspension set up the other day and they could only get -1.5 on one side which is fully maxed out, won't slide any further (and it's not the screws as they have all been moved to the most outer holes)yet they could get -2 on the other and that still has about 6-7mm spare to play with before it's maxed out. Would you say that is an equipment fault or a ride height fault. I measured the distance between the lock nut at the base and the lock nut for the spring perch and they are the same at 35mm. I measured the height from the underside of the plate that bolts to the car on both sides to the top of the spring perch and it seem that it is maybe 2mm difference. I wouldn't have thought this would be enough to only get -1.5 maxed out. What are your thoughts? I have just given the towers a good inspection and I can not see any mushrooming there either, so I am not too sure
Got my suspension set up the other day and they could only get -1.5 on one side which is fully maxed out, won't slide any further (and it's not the screws as they have all been moved to the most outer holes)yet they could get -2 on the other and that still has about 6-7mm spare to play with before it's maxed out. Would you say that is an equipment fault or a ride height fault. I measured the distance between the lock nut at the base and the lock nut for the spring perch and they are the same at 35mm. I measured the height from the underside of the plate that bolts to the car on both sides to the top of the spring perch and it seem that it is maybe 2mm difference. I wouldn't have thought this would be enough to only get -1.5 maxed out. What are your thoughts? I have just given the towers a good inspection and I can not see any mushrooming there either, so I am not too sure
Last edited by scolburn79; Sep 9, 2010 at 11:10 PM.