Suspension BC coilovers installed (how-to & feedback)
I do thank you for all your advice and wisdom. But in the end, someone PMed me who is close. He gave me a smokin' deal on the coilovers and Swift springs. He did the install which was basically free, if I were to compare the prices for parts and install from other people. Plus he sold me on the Swift springs and Im glad he did. We're going to do a Hotchkis Comp rear bar next.
spacers yes. Take for instance, to run the stock s-lites (17x7 et48) you need a 5mm spacer up front to clear the coils, that gives you a final et of 43 up front (which you'd want to run in the rear as well since no one likes the reverse stagger look). So now with a 17x8 you're already tightening up the inner clearance, the lower offset helps but when you factor in the needed 5mm spacer from the 7" wheel you're not much different.
Using the wheel offset calculator http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Wheel...ulator#Results
it shows a 12mm difference (when the 7" wheel is input with the offset to include the 5mm spacer), so you'd want to run a 12mm spacer to make everything clear nicely.
I factored in the 5mm spacer that I used for my s-lites, you may very well be able to get the needed clearance with a 2.5mm spacer which would then mean you could get away with just 10mm spacers but I'm not positive. I do know from experience that 17x8 et30 is a perfect fit (That's what I'm running), also that the stock 204/45 will work with them but you're better off with a 205/40 for added clearance from running (once my 205/45's wear out I'll be changing it up to 205/40's).
Using the wheel offset calculator http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Wheel...ulator#Results
it shows a 12mm difference (when the 7" wheel is input with the offset to include the 5mm spacer), so you'd want to run a 12mm spacer to make everything clear nicely.
I factored in the 5mm spacer that I used for my s-lites, you may very well be able to get the needed clearance with a 2.5mm spacer which would then mean you could get away with just 10mm spacers but I'm not positive. I do know from experience that 17x8 et30 is a perfect fit (That's what I'm running), also that the stock 204/45 will work with them but you're better off with a 205/40 for added clearance from running (once my 205/45's wear out I'll be changing it up to 205/40's).
Is that on a r53 or r56? From my understanding there are clearance differences between the two models. Honestly I'm trying to run as small of a spacer as possible because with what I calculated a with an 18mm my final et would be 17x8 et24 which is too much poke for my taste. I may just go the route of buying new wheels.
Is there a clearance issue with all coilovers?
Is there a clearance issue with all coilovers?
Is that on a r53 or r56? From my understanding there are clearance differences between the two models. Honestly I'm trying to run as small of a spacer as possible because with what I calculated a with an 18mm my final et would be 17x8 et24 which is too much poke for my taste. I may just go the route of buying new wheels.
Is there a clearance issue with all coilovers?
Is there a clearance issue with all coilovers?
18mm spacers are huge (considering the wheel width/offset) and definitely would be overkill for what you need, not sure how you came up with that measurement. et30 on a 17x8, which you'd get with a 12mm spacer is definitely more than enough clearance, I have a feeling even 10mm spacers (et32) would do the trick.
i have a r53. but i was going off of what CynMini posted.
"I'm 15x7 and 40 ET with 205s and I needed a spacer. I think I used a 2.5mm spacer.
"
i used the offset calculator and i have 15mm less clearance than him.
"I'm 15x7 and 40 ET with 205s and I needed a spacer. I think I used a 2.5mm spacer.
"
i used the offset calculator and i have 15mm less clearance than him.
hmm that's odd, maybe he has fatty tires? The stock s-lites which are 17x7 et48 only need a 5mm spacer for clearance, which makes them et43, so the only reason I can see a 15x7 et40 needing a spacer might be due to a fat tire. Either way, 17x8 will be fine with a final offset of 30 and should be fine even with an offset of 32.
I just put some bc's in my car the other day and im trying to go as low as i can without mad neg camber or losing much handling performance. i had to get i believe a 5mm wheel spacer for the front due to my offset rims touching the lock rings to the strut. in the end im rubbing hard on my plastic trim fenders. i cut the wheel well fenders about an inch and a half and sheved the inside of the trim as much as i could, i also am almost maxed on my front camber. still rubbing. and i dont really want to raise it.
anyone else having a hard time going low without rubbing?


anyone else having a hard time going low without rubbing?


I just put some bc's in my car the other day and im trying to go as low as i can without mad neg camber or losing much handling performance. i had to get i believe a 5mm wheel spacer for the front due to my offset rims touching the lock rings to the strut. in the end im rubbing hard on my plastic trim fenders. i cut the wheel well fenders about an inch and a half and sheved the inside of the trim as much as i could, i also am almost maxed on my front camber. still rubbing. and i dont really want to raise it.
anyone else having a hard time going low without rubbing?
Attachment 79323
Attachment 79324
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anyone else having a hard time going low without rubbing?
Attachment 79323
Attachment 79324
Attachment 79325
Anyway, per your question, if you are maxed on camber in the front and it is rubbing then you are just going to have to raise or get different wheels. I really don't see a solution to your issue w/o running a different set of wheels or tires.. I mean you could run a smaller tread width and stretch your tires to see if that will stop the rubbing on the lower lock.
(B) drive around/over top of the potholes.
Option (B) seems to be the easiest.
Yeah I would love to move out of state but work and school is keeping me here. I blame our state not being able to "fix" the roads. All they do is put patches down that make if worse haha. Come drive in Detroit sometime!
Yea not being able to fix the roads are everywhere. MD gets around on their own time to repair the roads, it is quite frustrating-- you wonder where the gas tax is going if you don't see any roads being repaired.
Also no desire to go to Detroit. I will stick to the country-- city life is not for me. lol
Also no desire to go to Detroit. I will stick to the country-- city life is not for me. lol
I just put some bc's in my car the other day and im trying to go as low as i can without mad neg camber or losing much handling performance. i had to get i believe a 5mm wheel spacer for the front due to my offset rims touching the lock rings to the strut. in the end im rubbing hard on my plastic trim fenders. i cut the wheel well fenders about an inch and a half and sheved the inside of the trim as much as i could, i also am almost maxed on my front camber. still rubbing. and i dont really want to raise it.
anyone else having a hard time going low without rubbing?
Attachment 79323
Attachment 79324
Attachment 79325
anyone else having a hard time going low without rubbing?
Attachment 79323
Attachment 79324
Attachment 79325
roads suck everywhere, it's part of the challenge (you should see the Belt parkway in Brooklyn, yea pretty sure it would make your roads look pretty good
). You can go low without being slammed, also you can add a skid plate if you're nervous (the Mini's don't have too much that hangs low but it makes for good piece of mind), and if anything it will make you a much better driver since you'll have to be more attentive Looks good, but unless this isn't your daily driver, where are you going where you aren't scrapping?
Anyway, per your question, if you are maxed on camber in the front and it is rubbing then you are just going to have to raise or get different wheels. I really don't see a solution to your issue w/o running a different set of wheels or tires.. I mean you could run a smaller tread width and stretch your tires to see if that will stop the rubbing on the lower lock.
Anyway, per your question, if you are maxed on camber in the front and it is rubbing then you are just going to have to raise or get different wheels. I really don't see a solution to your issue w/o running a different set of wheels or tires.. I mean you could run a smaller tread width and stretch your tires to see if that will stop the rubbing on the lower lock.
Unfortunately this is my daily driver. in the future i would like to purchase a rabbit or something similar as my dd and track my mini but for now i have to settle. as for the rubbing, i only rub on u-turns or breaking while turning aggressively. i really would like to get into tracking my car so all the feedback is helpful. thank you
Those tires look very meaty, that's probably your biggest issue right there since it sounds like it is your tire doing all of the rubbing. As Speedracer said, try a narrower tread width or maybe a lower profile.
I know plenty of people in the Detroit area driving slammed cars on a daily basis so your argument is invalid
roads suck everywhere, it's part of the challenge (you should see the Belt parkway in Brooklyn, yea pretty sure it would make your roads look pretty good
). You can go low without being slammed, also you can add a skid plate if you're nervous (the Mini's don't have too much that hangs low but it makes for good piece of mind), and if anything it will make you a much better driver since you'll have to be more attentive
ST's were one of my choices if I went the coilover route. But they go I believe 2.2-2.4" around there lowered. They also are great quality and warrantied for five years.


