Hmmmm.

The ONLY importer of BCas to the USA is even having dificulty helping me answer this one ...

Honestly I don't have a difinitave answer on the R50/53 spring rate question ...
Would love to find one for you guys.

the only 7K front spring that should even come close to fitting is 180 length application calls for 160 ...It would work but drop would be less with same preload ...

 

Not sure I follow. Are you saying that the springs at the front that at least 4 of us in the UK are the wrong length?

How does this effect changing to say swift springs as well?

 

Right ...

The 180 spring is 20mm longer.

It will work because you can get more drop out of the front COs than the rear.

I will test this by using a 20mm spacer ... but think that this set up will not allow for as much Max Drop .

When I use the rear set at max drop the front is about 12 / 15 mm from full drop.
Therefore if the front is 20mm longer, for the same rake you will loose about 5 to 8 mm of max drop

 

I just installed mine last weekend and love them...
BC Coils + 17" OZ superleggera (+34??) no spacers, no rubbing.. i have them dropped as far as they go so it's very similar to my h-sports w/ stock shocks. I love linear springs! The progressive are a nice, but the linear hold the road so much better. Im still figuring out what to set my camber (-2.5) and dampning (15 from soft front and back) to.. h-sport comp rear sway is on medium, but so far i havent found any roads to get the back end to step out on - i need a cool night with rain and open parking lot to test how the car behaves sideways.

so far im VERY happy with the setup! the nice spring weather helps.. so does the full miltek :D Install was very simple.. i cut peices off the front so i can adjust the camber without droping the suspension - its not that much metal and very easy to do with the dremel + some touch up paint to seal anything - 2 straight cuts at each corner.

bbk next!

phil.

 

But I have 160mm length, so are you saying these are to short?

 

Once the preload is set properly, is it safe adjust the lower adjustment all the way down?

In other words, will I be in danger of bottoming out the piston if I leave the preload alone, but drop the lower adjuster all the way down for maximum lowering in the front?

 

i don't think so.. i have mine all the way down front and back.. you can't slam the car to the ground with the BC's but i find it's the perfect balance between low and not scraping the airdam on everything. From the thread using the pre-load to lower the car causes the piston issues.

phil.

 

Once the preload is set. when you lower the entire unit into the lower mount the piston stays in exactlty the same place.

Lowering correctly (ie NOT using neg preload to lower) is the correct way to do it
no reduction of travel and the piston is where it should be.

 

So I adjusted the fronts all the way down and the drop is perfect for my taste... It's low, but not too low. I am really loving these coilovers so far! No regrets at any price... Thanks Brian!

 

Pics!

 

How about a video instead? I still spared 3 threads on the fronts (which is "maybe" 1/8" in) and adjusted the rears to match. I am running (7) in the front and (6) in the rears and am VERY happy so far!

 

looks nice

i think i'll get these over the H&R's

camber/dampening/height adjustment for 1K shipped not bad at all

 

Looks great man! I think the R56's lower a little more judging by your video. I set mine at zero preload front and rear and slammed the fronts all the way down and still have about 3/4" to 1" of gap in the front where the rears can go down even more and already are tucking an 1/8" Not too bad though cuz the car looks AMAZING compared to stock (lifted Jeep???)

Steve

 

hey "vernon29RW" You are a R53 ... right?
What size rims and tires do you have ?
Do you know what sptings you have

 

Bryan could you please tell me where did you use the spacers? I am waiting for adjustable rear control arms this week and I will also go for an allignment so I 'll do some adjustments again. Also I had a look at the struts today and the rubber dust boots that protect the rod from dust, were tottaly torned. Are you familiar with that? Has anyone else observed anythink like that? Also I am thinking to buy swap to swift springs since the ones that I have now 8k/8k f/r are very stiff and the car has become too much uncomfortable for daily driving. What should I check and what spec the swift springs must have?

 

If you have torn boots contact BC in Orlando and they'll replace them. They told me they recently redesigned the boots so they replaced them without hesitation.

 

BC will replace the boots .the new design doesnt twist as you raise / lower ride height.
If your careful they wont twist or rip on the old style.

Coopergti ... a couple of things

1st you bought a used set of coilovers without rear top plates.
As I did suggest when you were asking me questions about them before you bought them, the very little you saved is coming back to get you.
All the mods and ending up with OEM rear plates IMHO is not worth what I know you saved.
The top plate can be used just remove it and drill out the top hole to the size of the BC shaft. a spacer of about 1/2 inch needt to go on then the mount.

2nd When I sell a set I ask very indepth questions about use and try to make an educated decision on what springs may best suit your needs.
Your used set has 8 / 8 & I'll bet linear not progressive ...That is a RACE set up ... you will not be happy on the street unless your street is to get to the track

3rd BC is good about replacing the boots but after multiple users and unknown history you may be pushing the warrantee a bit. Buying a used set.

 

I have not buy a used BC BR coilover set, unless that if you get a set without the rear top mounts means that it is used. Also it is not a 8/8k spring rate but 8k/6k spring rate. How can I check if it is liner or progressive? The boots when I installed the coilovers were totally new and from what I saw yesterday they have been torned from streching. I'll to take some pictures today and upload them to have a look.
When are saying the to drill the top hole do you mean the hole on the car? Then put a spacer between the top mount and the car? Am I right?

 

coopergti ... only working off the info you supplied....
You said 8 / 8 ....?

You emailed me and included a photo .. of the units you were purchasing ...I said they were the OLD style and had NO rear top mountts...?


The Spacer goes on the SHAFT of the rod before placing the top mount.
The green shows the top mount ...the spacer (between green indicated top plate and top hat) allows for the clearance needed.

 

Sorry for the 8k/8k it was by mistake. I have send you so many messages with the right values 8k/6k that I thought that you would have understand my error.
Thank you very much for the help with the figure, I'll try to see if there is any difference, otherwise I might go for another set of springs. I'll let you know as soon as I have it ready.

 

Hmmm... okay, I think I should step in on this one for a bit. I (Steve formerly of Megan Racing) have dealt with BC factory, which is actually Bor Chuan (spelling?).

The springs, in terms of quality are actually pretty good, after testing 100 springs of various weights and lengths, they all actually fell within .5% of tolerance when it came to rate. The only thing you're going to find is inconsistency with sizes and the lack of choices available. It was only recently that they started getting into the "Beehive" springs to allow for more travel.

The dampening, sucks. I'm sorry, it just does... it was the only thing that I didn't like about my Megans when I had them and it's the only thing I used to complain to the factory about. The adjustments only adjusted the Rebound, not the Compression. Eibach, actually helped us with doing a shock Dyno and the reason they weren't published was because they really weren't that great.

I had a lot of time to play around with this setup, and currently I'm still on Megan's but am gonna switch out sooner or later, it's just way to stiff. The only way I could make them handle was with an 8kg Front 8kg Rear setup; so these SoCal streets are KILLING me.

I dunno, that's just my $.02 but I mean, what do I know?

 

That is good info ....but ....

Agree the springs, behive and progressive are much better for both travel and comfort if that is what your after, that the olde straight fixed rate springs.
Yes the limiting factor is choice of springs (thats why there is talk with Swift) And the actual multi application body (often interchanged with different tops and lowers to be able to fit different applications)

Haven't had that many or that severe bad remarks (or my own impressions) about the dampening. At the very least equal to or better than MINI oem and adjustable.
! They do NOT only adjust rebound !
I have had the units apart and even modified valving. Just not how it works. The valving slows oil ... oil from bottom through valve to top for compression and ... from top through valve to bottom for rebound, the valve adjusts that flow and can NOT only adjust 1 way.

If you are on 8 / 8 springs ... on any brand of Coilovers your ride will be bad on the street if comfort is what your after.

I will say it again ... $1000 for lowering, handeling and adjustability can't be beat .. (needs: correct spring, valving and set up for each users needs)
Suspension is always a compromise.

 

So you're saying the BC's are using Progressive Springs and they are using a new dampening system?

Or are you saying that they're going to be opting to go with something progressive by going to Swift?

I like Swift, by the way, the owner used to personally go to a lot of the events and talk to the people that he sponsored and get a lot of driver feedback from other people. He was definitely a good guy that liked to get involved. I'd REALLY like to see a company like that get more business.

And my 8/8 setup wasn't for comfort.. I'm just a bigtime oversteer guy and the car just didn't feel right with the stiffer fronts.

 

WOW really really late on this one! Yeah I'm a R53 17x7 TD 1.2 and 215/40R17 falken rt615. I'm pretty sure I have the standard 8k/6k springs as I didn't special order anything or make any special requests when ordering.

Why??

Steve

 

steve ... I asked that because you 3/4 ... 1 inch gap just didnt sound right if lowered all the way ...

Did you set the preload ?
Seems to me that you may have lots of preload and actually raised the ride height ... not good for the look your after and really not good for the COs ...