Minimaejc,
It is doubtful the SES (check engine light) has anything to do with the engine mount. I'm not sure how replacing the v-belt could do this either.

One easy way to find out why the light came on is to read the code. Many auto parts stores will let you borrow their code reader or you can buy one for $50 to $60 from several places. Reading the code is a very easy thing to do. I would encourage you to get familiar with doing this for all vehicles because it is pretty much the same procedure for all vehicles after 1996.

 

thank you all for your valueable information, well we ordered the peak tool on sunday, and monday morning while driving to work the ses light went out go figure. the engine is running fine, we're thinking that it might have something to do with the ground strap removal. that's good to know about getting the codes read this is all new to us as we're used to working on an old car a 1967 austin cooperS. since we are going to be doing as much as we can on our new mini miss molly the peak tool will be used, next we need to get a bentley manual.

thanks again everyone it's good to know you've got our back.

keep enjoying your mini!

 

Add me to the leaky motor mount club. Just had ours go on our '05 JCW MCS at about 98k. I ordered a new OEM mount and Torx bolt this morning from RM European. Total with overnight shipping was $101. Not too bad. Mount and bolt should be here tomorrow morning. I know how I'm spending my Friday night!

 

50k miles and my '06 MCS is in the club. I thought I was having some suspension issues with the slight clunking and popped the hood to discover what appeared to be the murder of my passenger side mount. I was freaking out wondering if this was engine oil but quickly realized it was the hydraulic mount. I guess I'll head to the MINI shop tomorrow. Sounds like it's pretty quick and cheap. I blame the roads around here- tons of construction and lots of potholes.

 

I'm on my 6th one with my '05 S, so far all under warranty.

 

alright, i just bought an OEM replacement lower engine mount from WMW and i'm wondering if your suppose to leave the ziptie on the mount or should i remove it?

 

Add me in!

I just hit 36.000 miles yesterday on my 2006 R53. I just ordered the PowerFlex Complete Engine Mount Bushing Kit from OutMotoring. I'm thinking about just replacing all of the engine mounts so I don't have to worry about it. Not a fan of the oil being on engine bay...not installing another hydraulic engine mount.

 

I'm pretty sure, remove it. I say that only because a zip tie won't last very long, and if they wanted it to be permanent, they would have used something else.

 

The SES light will go out when the code is cleared. Some of the codes are self clearing when the problem is fixed or goes away. It takes 2 engine start cycles after the problem is fixed to reset the code.

 

Leave the zip tie on it, Don't know why but BMW put it on there for a reason, it's suppose to be there.

 

bizarre they put it on there but i guess i'll be "timing" how long it stays put. Thank you WMW, always on time in the forums and in shipping your products.

 

update, this is what my stock mount looked like when i pulled...when it dropped out.

 

Does this issue continue with newer models? I have a 2010 MCS that had a burning rubber oily smell, found a very slight leak on the right side and noticed the oil leaking was cool after just driving. Checked regular oil and it was warm. Scheduled a visit to the dealer but cant get me in till weds and the MCS is my only car. Thanks for the help!

 

this kind of problem is pretty universal across cars with hydraulic mounts. your mount probably isn't made of rubber like mine was (for 1st gens they switched to a metal hydraulic motor mount in 04 i think) i would definitively check that out.

 

My '06 started leaking at 35K miles. I think shortly after some hard "wheel hop". I replaced it with stock but also replaced the lower mount with a BSH mount and the transmission mount with Power Flex http://www.waymotorworks.com/bsh-low...0-r52-r53.html . The engine is much tighter now. Great Improvement!

 

Just an FYI the newer models don't have the hydraulic mounts Turned out it was a washer/seal/gasket on the timing belt that broke. Service rep said Mini just put a bulletin out not long ago about a new part# to replace it.

 

Mount #2 made it a little past 101K. I hit a pothole really hard last weekend, so maybe that did it. I bet it will cost me more than last time ($221).

 

I bought a new hydrolic motor mount for my 06MCS.
$69.95. Ships in two days.
Might have to buy a floor jack, some stands and one tool. Hoping it will only take me an hour to replace. I have a really nice pair of ramps, but a jack seems preferable.

 

Ad my wife's 08 convertable to the list at 58K miles. Not sure when it happened but I just had it to the dealer to replace the other common Mini repair....The cracked thermostat housing!!!! Both happened just out of warranty!!! GRRRRRR I have noticed the oil stain (looks like grease or body undercoating) for a while but didn't think much of it. Funny how this was never mentioned until the warranty was up! Maybe it went out after but we are talking about a car dealer. Any bode recommend where I can buy the part? I plan on replaceing this myself as it looks pretty easy. Also, anyone know if I need to support the engine while doing this and how? thanks.

 

Yep, you have to support the engine using a floor jack with a piece ( 2x4 or 4x4 block) of wood under the oil pan. Just add pressure and lift slightly. You WILL need the E-12 torx socket with a long extension. All other tools you should have. Thak a look at the how-to below ---

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post1727110

 

Many thanks Davester

 

I'm on my 3rd or 4th now...
Seems to go everything 20k miles or so...

 

Is it best to replace these as a pair? Is it a given that if one goes, the other will go shortly after?

Haven't had the chance to figure out which one is thunking yet, but I am positive that is what I'm hearing. Both of them went out within a month of each other around 40,000 miles. I'm around 85,000 now.

 

Considering the SMOOTH roads you have in SF, that's not a surprise.

After each visit of SF, I usually have my teeth fillings redone and bladder inspected for internal bleeding.

 

Hard to say. Most NAM'ers seem to report on the pass-side failing, rarely on the driver-side. On mine, the pass-side went at 26-27k while the driver-side is fine at 39k and 5.5 years.