Hydraulic motor mount leak
Yes if you have the dried fluid on the pass side you need a new pass mount. There is also the poly engine mount, "soon to be back in stock".
For the lower mount we stock the BSH mount, but if your looking for something cheaper you can get the OEM mount and the powerflex bushing. It won't be as hard as the BSH mount.
For the lower mount we stock the BSH mount, but if your looking for something cheaper you can get the OEM mount and the powerflex bushing. It won't be as hard as the BSH mount.
Have you ever seen a motor roll that far? (2 inches?) there is a pronounced and sickening "Thud" if when engaging / disengaging the clutch. From the way I understand the lower mount, it has to be bad to allow the motor that much travel, right? Should be ugly when it comes out.
I'm going strait for the BSH, I enjoy the connected feeling with the car.
I've convinced myself this must be it, or at the very least, I should do this upgrade lol... I placed an order with WMW for the BSH mount in street trim and a shorty antennae, because I still rock the RC car look.
Sorry newbie here (just purchased the car last night).
What's the benefit over buying the poly over stock upper motor mount?
And is it pretty easy to instal?
J
What's the benefit over buying the poly over stock upper motor mount?
And is it pretty easy to instal?
J
Thanks for the info, I was just reading another thread about the BSH bar, and I think that's the way I need to go, and will probably be placing an order with you tomorrow when I get back to the car and verify that's the problem.
Have you ever seen a motor roll that far? (2 inches?) there is a pronounced and sickening "Thud" if when engaging / disengaging the clutch. From the way I understand the lower mount, it has to be bad to allow the motor that much travel, right? Should be ugly when it comes out.
I'm going strait for the BSH, I enjoy the connected feeling with the car.
Have you ever seen a motor roll that far? (2 inches?) there is a pronounced and sickening "Thud" if when engaging / disengaging the clutch. From the way I understand the lower mount, it has to be bad to allow the motor that much travel, right? Should be ugly when it comes out.
I'm going strait for the BSH, I enjoy the connected feeling with the car.
I haven't installed one yet (They're not in stock yet) so i'll let someone else comment on that.
If mine goes I'll install another OEM piece.
I want nothing to do with adding NVH to my MINI. I could only stand the TSW engine damper for a week before I pulled it off the car due to NVH.
Your mileage may vary....
I want nothing to do with adding NVH to my MINI. I could only stand the TSW engine damper for a week before I pulled it off the car due to NVH.
Your mileage may vary....
Guess if I had all of that power in my other vehicle it would desensitise me to a lot of things too.
FWIW I felt no improvement in my car with the TSW NVH generator (damper). So off it came. No benefit for me just NVH.
FWIW I felt no improvement in my car with the TSW NVH generator (damper). So off it came. No benefit for me just NVH.
My right side mount went bad at about 20K. In a way I was lucky because Way (Way Motor Sports) noticed the problem when installing a pulley package to the MINI during a mod party. Yea, it was an extra cost at the time but the timing was great and once again it was cool having someone like Way doing the work.
I replaced my fluid-filled engine mount on my 2004 MCS w/ 98K just last week. Used an OE replacement part. Car on ramps but didn't need to remove wheel or wheel well liner. Essential tool is the #12 female torx socket on about 10" of extension. Required some force because as the mount leaks the fluid runs down the threads of the lower bolt and hardens. One hour start to finish.
Last edited by JAB 67; Jul 26, 2010 at 01:50 PM. Reason: typo
Well, I limped the mini the 90 miles home and threw it up in the air on stands..
I was right in a way. The lower motor mount was to blame, but it wasn't just worn out rubber. I snapped the bolt off holding the mount to the frame. So, fair warning- if you go turn sub 2 min lap times on street tires at my local road course, you may create some problems.
Pictures as I get it taken off etc. Will need to go find a bolt now though..
I was right in a way. The lower motor mount was to blame, but it wasn't just worn out rubber. I snapped the bolt off holding the mount to the frame. So, fair warning- if you go turn sub 2 min lap times on street tires at my local road course, you may create some problems.
Pictures as I get it taken off etc. Will need to go find a bolt now though..
Turns out the bolt just backed out and fell out.. same threads etc as the other one but shorter, on my way to go pick up a replacement. since there is no bushing on that end how tight should I make it?
Last edited by midwestAce; Jul 26, 2010 at 02:58 PM.
got it all put back together, 20 min job off and on if you've got the parts handy. Car is more connected, noticed a little vibration/noise, but nothing offensive really, and it's supposed to mellow after 500 miles or so.. I am thus far, loving it.
I guess I may be ordering a new TSW mount as well as my 2nd OEM just started leaking.
My 06 R50 has 53k miles.
Edit: Just seen the price ($199). I'm not sure i'm ready to dump this kind of money on a engine mount :( I guess, MINI will have to get used to the leak.
My 06 R50 has 53k miles.
Edit: Just seen the price ($199). I'm not sure i'm ready to dump this kind of money on a engine mount :( I guess, MINI will have to get used to the leak.
Last edited by rallymaniac; Aug 6, 2010 at 07:08 AM.
My '06 MCS has the mount problem too. I just ordered one from WMW. The fluid has baked onto the rail as well. I was not thrilled with the TSW price but the idea of replacing a failed OEM one again was even less appealing to me.
I'll try to post again once I get it replaced.
I'll try to post again once I get it replaced.
I can think of a lot more things to spend $200 on.
Noise Vibration & Harshness.
I'm sure that mount will work, but the OEM one is oil filled to dampen out vibrations. A solid mount can not do that.
I installed a TSW engine damper on my MINI. I could only stand the additional NVH for 2 days than off it came. Not all folks seem to mind NVH, some do.
I'm sure that mount will work, but the OEM one is oil filled to dampen out vibrations. A solid mount can not do that.
I installed a TSW engine damper on my MINI. I could only stand the additional NVH for 2 days than off it came. Not all folks seem to mind NVH, some do.
I finished the TSW mount install today. It was pretty easy. I followed the instructions carefully to ensure there was no binding. I also did the thermostat so I haven't driven more than around the block but I did notice the additional vibration immediately. But I'll deal with it. Cleaning the oil off was not fun or easy but the alcohol did work. Since I may be doing track days again the mount was well worth it.
Another member of the engine mount club for men (and women)
I just figured out (thanks to the terrific postings in this forum) that I, too, have a leaking hydraulic engine mount. My '06 Cooper S has 52,000 miles and has been making the telltale clicking noise for about a month (too long). Luckily replacement is easy. About 2 hours for the whole job, but I'm kind of slow. I used Tar & Bug remover for the black goop and I did remove a little paint.
This sucks - Mini ought to have a recall on this obvious flaw.
Thanks again to all those who post here.
This sucks - Mini ought to have a recall on this obvious flaw.Thanks again to all those who post here.
Help, SES light on after replacing motor mount
We just replaced the right motor mount due to leaking and the v-belt and now the service engine soon light is on and the engine dies after the first start. it's a 2006 r50 with 70k miles. help! this is the first time the service engine soon light has displayed. Does anyone have any ideas as to why the SES light would now display and can we make the light go out or does it require a visit to the dealer?
Thanks
Marilyn
Thanks
Marilyn



