i have an automatic and had a weird thing happen tonight. I was backing up in a parking space ( i dont like pulling to far forward cause other cars cant see me
) turn off the car and thought i was not far enough back, so i restarted the car and it felt like it stalled, of the engine was flooded. I didnt think this was possible in the automatic. This is the only time it happened. I think maybe i started it too quickly after turning it off, but anyone have any suggestions?

 

I agree, pre-start procedure didn't work fo me either. I'm sure I tried something similar to Dutch's suggestion before, with the same result...no change.

 

I was driving to a car meet today and I noticed my car started idling wierd if i let it sit for a while, really bad idle...

kept going on and then once the cars rpms dropped to like 300 and came back upp... almost stalled.

I dont want to read 18 pages of this bull ****.. whats the fix? Ive got my car tuned and that hasnt done anything.


And please dont say the fix is to turn the car on twice or give it some gas, if theres an issue with the car there are no workarounds and I want the real solution.

 

It sounds like the yo-yo thread may be more useful to you than this cold start thread. I haven't read in depth, but it sounds like the common culprits for the yo-yo are the ECU or the bypass valve. (More informed motorers please chime in!)

Back to the original topic....

I've noticed that my cold-start problems are back. I'm dithering as to how high of a priority it is to have fixed.

On my morning commute I come to an intersection only a couple of yards from my house; I haven't stalled out completely, but there's definitely a hesitation and lack of power that's concerning. (This intersection is on a blind hill and I'm nervous that I'll get t-boned one of these days. Fortunately traffic is typically pretty light when I leave the house in the morning.)

Of course once I'm through this particular intersection the fuel pressure (presumably) has had a chance to build, and the rest of the drive is smooth sailing....

Has anyone had their FPR replaced under warranty? I still have another year/~45,000 miles left on mine, but it's a hike to get down to the dealer and I'd likely have to leave the car overnight for them to officially diagnose the problem.

I just wish I'd been thinking of all of this while I had my car in at the Local MINI Guru for an oil change the other day!

FWIW -- I thought the trick of giving the fuel pump time to wake up was working for a little while, but no longer....

 

roflmao, dont want much do ya. Maybe if you hold your breath someone will give up the secret fix. I have subscribed to this thread and haven't seen it yet...but you're more than happy to try other posts to try and cajole the secret out. But I guess sisnce it isn't out, there is no real solution.


Paul

 

Dave -- Follow-up question:

Do you think it would be enough to just replace the o-rings on the FPR, or is it likely the FPR itself would need replacing? (Or would it be just as easy -- if a bit more expensive -- just to replace the FPR if one's going to muck around with the o-rings anyways.)

 

Ok guys...
Before I post a new thread, I thought I would post here, although based on the number of posts, it seems I'm a little late to the party.

I have a new/used 05 MCS that I recently bought with 6k miles on it, and I'm up to 11k at this point. It doesn't really stall, but at times it HESITATES like crazy, sometimes at the worst possible time, like when I need to merge into fast moving traffic...really pisses me off. Any suggestions? I've seen MINI sites like outmotoring sell a fix to the throttle body (looks like a spring?) that says fixes this problem....anyone familiar?

I didn't want to go through this entire thread to see if there are posts on my problem, but it looks like its primarily concerning the stalling issue, which doesn't happen to me (yet!) Thanks folks.

 

Sounds to me like your bypass valve (that thing that looks like a little throttle body with a vacuum diaphragm on the side of it) has a weak or broken spring. Check out my post on this thread for info on "VGS", a relatively cheap way to fix it up until you can get a new bypass valve.

I had VGS working on mine until I found a deal I couldn't pass up on a Detroit Tuned replacement unit.

HTH!

C ya,
Dutch

 

Dutch.....thanks a million. It just looks like a S.O.B. to get at and fix...but that may be the problem.

 

Replacing the valve's not too bad. You just have to pull a few bits and bobs out of the way first, then pull the end "horn" off the intake to get at it. Though it's not in the procedure, I found it advantageous to pull the air cleaner lid and filter off, so that I could use the airbox to hold small parts and bolts....

The intake horn is the most difficult part, because I had to really pull harder than I felt comfortable pulling on it to get it to slide off the end of the manifold studs because you're pulling against the stubby little rubber hose that connects the bypass valve to the supercharger inlet. It *will* come off, as long as you're patient with it, and take your time. Once it's off, it's a cinch to change the valve and reassemble.

The Bentley manual has great pics on this job. Pages 130-33 through 130-35 have all the info you'll need to get in there and get it done.

While mine was apart, everything got cleaned. The inside of the throttle body was filthy with oil schmutz from the PCV line. Since I have had an Alta oil catch can for a little while now, it should stay clean....

C ya,
Dutch

 

Not too difficult then, even for me. One more question....is there any advantage to the Detroit Tuned version or just a new OEM/modified one that you know of? It would seem to me that there wouldn't be any difference.
Thanks again.

 

Either will work better than yours if yours isn't closing properly. I don't think there's a huge price difference in the part, though, so the DT unit is probably worth it if you're considering a new stock unit.

DT puts a stronger spring in theirs, though, which closes it a bit sooner when opening the throttle up, and opens it a bit later upon deceleration. You can feel the valve closing and opening in the way the engine responds during on/off throttle, like when dicing up some nice twisties. You get a small but distinct "hammer down" thunk feeling in the lower gears, and a "hammer up" thunk upon deceleration as the engine takes up the slack in the engine and tranny mounts....

Sorry for the trip off topic, folks....

 

The DT tuned is usually suggested for pre 05's...all bypass vales from mini after 05 came with a stiffer spring... But not as stiff as dt's...some folks like the dt version, some say it makes their car too jerky...it depnds on how you drive....
Since you have so few miles, it is very liklely that the fuel system has some varnishy gunk in it from fuel ageing...
I would sea-foam it, gas and intake to clean it up...
Since unleaded gas starts to go bad in as little as 30 days in storage and the ethonol does not help that, some places also sell enzymatic fuel cleaners that might help clean the varnish...Star-tron is one that comes to mind...not sure if the stuff is better than techron/sea-foam, but might be worth a shot...
As for the stumble/hesitation...could be the bypass, could be a yoyo..
Have you ever changed the plugs? Have a pulley?
You could read this entire thread...no real single answer, but lots of things to try...many free/low cost, and most have worked for a few.

 

Never did anything to it......yet. I bought it with 6k, and in a blink, I'm over 11k, so I put on a lot of miles. I should check the plugs then, eh? Maybe its time for a little basic maintenance then!

 

By the way Zippy...I threw in some fuel line cleaner by BG, 44K, when I bought it, for the exact same reasons you gave. It seemed to run better after using it and driving it hard for a while. But it still hesitates at times.

 

Bg44k is good stuff IMO...so if you have done that it is fine...
If the car did not get "regular" serviceing scheduled by date, rather than miles, which is approprate for a very low milage car, many things are overdue....brake flush is a 2 yr item, radaiator fluid is 4 or 5...and depending on where the car was kept, the supercharger belt could be slipping...adding to your issue, or even causing it!! A dry, old belt, with few miles could be slipping...even if not, if it breaks, it could cost some serious $$ to fix since it since the crank pulley to is sometmes dammaged when the tensioner is suddenly realeased.....the plugs are likely ok...but if the prior owner installed a pulley, then you should have jcw plugs installed to deal with the heat...and change them every service like a jcw.

 

+1 on the SeaFoam. I run a half a can through the gas periodically to ensure stuff stays clean. My car had fairly low miles (36k) when I got it last fall, but yours has *ridiculously* low miles.

The bypass valve's easy to check, though. If you can get your finger down in there and push the connecting rod coming from the diaphragm and the valve fully returns to the set-screw, then your valve's spring is ok.

HTH!

C ya,
Dutch

 

Thanks to all for your posts. (espc. muy_mini, Dave Elliot & Joe_bfstplk)

I have an 07 MCS with 68k miles. The funky stall upon start recently emerged.

So far I have tried SeaFoam and my car was like new for a couple of weeks then ...well not so much.

see the utube video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5o4t7I1BCgk

I'll try the delay start from post 604 as well as another treatment of Seafoam to see how it goes...stay tuned..

cheers
Michael D

 

any update? So I can get a fuel pressure regulator and some o-rings for my r53.

Here is some info from my other post

 

hi guys, im new to the forum
i have the same problem in my MCS auto here in Australia.
on a cold start any time of day it either stalls or chokes to death under 1000RPM. but it ONLY happens if i've been using the AC the day before.

i'm going to do the following step by step and eliminate each factor, i'll probably have re-built half the engine by the time its resolved haha
let me know your thoughts:

1. Check for vaccumm leaks in the entire air intake right up to the cylinder head
2. Clean the throttle. if its not resolved replace entire unit including BPV and reset the throttle pedal positioning.
3. Replace Temp & MAP sensors located on the air intake after the S/C and the other one on the cylinder head
4. Check entire fuel line, filter, regulator, injectors, o-rings the lot
5. Check ignition systems, sparks, leads, coil
6. Replace other sensors one by one, crank, O2 on cat/header, the lot
7. Flash ECU at the end

if this doesnt work its best we get some Honda engines and supercharge them instead hahaha

 

2004 mini cooper with 84000. so im having the same problems as all of you it started when it got cold i live in northeast ohio. when i start the car up i let the injectors power up then i go to start it and it starts fine. then i go to back up and its bogged down and about to stall. check engine light comes on and so does traction control light. i was thinking maybe its my spark plugs, wires, or coil pack. but i knew it wasnt because i replaced all of those a month befor. but i still tested them and all of the volts were coming out in spec. i also hooked up my buddies scanner/code reader and i have a p0304 misfire code. thinking it was maybe the injectors i put fuel system cleaner in it tried two different brands that i knew were good and nothing light came back on. so i broke down and went to the mini cooper dealer. they did a diagnostic on it and came up cylinder 4 misfire code which i knew but it was because of low fuel. so they cleared it said i would have no problem. went to work drove amazing. got out of work around 10 at night was probably 40 outside go to start my mini starts fine and then the weird idle comes on almost stalls out and traction control light comes on. i go back to the mini dealer they do compression tests injector tests spark plug tests basically everything you could imagine. the mechanic comes out that i actually was buddies with from a car club and says he believes my valve guides are sticking. but wont know exactly until we take the head off. so i'm gonna be doing that and getting it ported and polished soon and will keep you guys updated. let me know though what your thoughts are on this

 

Being that it comes when the weather's cold (most things shrink when cold), I'd suggest that before you go ripping the head off, you should at least try replacing the O-rings on the fuel injectors. You say they tested the injectors themselves, but did they test the seal between the injector and its receptacle on the manifold? Maybe the ones on the #4 injector are only marginally keeping vacuum in the manifold, and when it gets cold, they allow a vacuum leak that is causing a misfire. It'd suck to do all that work and have it be a handful of 10 cent O-rings that fixes it.... A simple shot of ether at the point where the injector plugs into the manifold would tell you if the seal's good or not. Get a can, and, next time it acts up, shoot a little ether on there, and see if it runs better for a second....

Just a thought....

HTH!

C ya,
Dutch

 

Hi Guys,
fixed the stalling issue just changed 2 sensors:

Replace Temp & MAP sensors located on the air intake after the S/C and the other one Coolant temp sensor on the cylinder head.

its a quick and easy fix, it worked for me and beats the hell out of cocking about with ECU, exhaust, pulley blah blah....

all the best with it!

 

oops forgot to mention, i got the sensors from mini mania
here are their item #'s

NME8603 TEMP & MAP SENSOR (TMAP) OE 75.95 USD
NME9607 TEMPERATURE SENSOR OEM - R5 18.95 USD

 

My 74k mile 2002 MCS Hot Chili does stall upon startup, but I get around this by turning the ignition switch one click before engine start (I can hear what seems to be the fuel pump kick in), wait about 3 seconds (to build up pressure?) and then start the engine.

It works for me all the time!

Cheers!
RayanMX