The pump or the check valve what is the parts no on realOEM.com or the picture of the parts..i will change them and post the result..my Mini S is and 04
Thanks

 

I just started having this problem,The dealer adjusted idle and told me to watch it. the told me they might have to check the cold start fuel pressure.
on an other note the pointed out a strut problem one strut top was domed
and one was cracked all the way around i was told it was from hitting pot holes ( sounds like a design problem to me) the one that was cracked they warranted but the other i had to pay for cost me $540.00 they installed
new top plates and strut tops. has anyone had this same problem?

 

i belive that happened to my mom twice before they gave the MINI to me xD
and well she hits most if not all pot holes in every street

 

Well I have been seeing this problem for most of the summer (so it's not cold outside temps). Start the engine the first time and it just stumbles over, start it a second time and it runs like a champ.

I have tried waiting for the fuel pump (even cycling it twice) and I always have all accessories off.

I doesn't seem anyone yet has the answer, so I will just tag this thread and hope!

 

Had this problem once or twice and it go and comme back that is
can't see were it comme from...but from my 2 sens im sure it the fuel pump.

 

I just started having this issue. First time was on 8/17 and I needed a jump. Worked fine until yesterday when it happened twice (morning and late afternoon). I'm in Philly so it's hot here, not dead of winter like many previous posts. Both times yesterday were very severe and neither roadside assistance guy really knew what was going on b/c after they tried jumping it still wouldn't start. First guy yesterday thought it was a cylinder misfire. 2nd guy thought initially it was battery, then spark plugs but quickly dismissed that b/c he said that wouldn't "fix itself". Then when he finally got the car to completely turn over after 6 tries we saw that the engine was erratically shaking and almost seemed like it was gonna cut off again. So he dismissed all of his original thoughts and said i have issues! So now i'm here at the dealership (thank god i still have 800 miles under warranty) and they are suspecting it's a hot water pump issue. Does anyone else have any insight? I'm really worried about this one.

 

I have an '03 MINI with 97K miles. I've owned the car since new.
Ever since some s/w update years ago, I have always had a stumble 30 seconds or so after starting the car. Mostly when it's mid 60's (degrees F).

But very recently the car won't start on the 1st attempt (after sitting overnight or all day at work) but cranks right up fine on the 2nd attempt (with no stumble). I have event tried the ignition on for a few seconds to pressurize the fuel rail; no change.

With the sudden change in my car's behavior, I was thinking I have a faulty injector that is flooding a cylinder. But with some many owners still complaining of the same problems, I'm not sure anymore. (or we all have fault injectors)

Some of the threads here indicate ethanol gas as the culprit. If I buy it, it's less that 10%.

 

I've had this problem since new (04 MCS) usually only in cooler temps or when car sits for a couple of days. Always starts right up on second attempt and runs great so, I'm not worrying about it.

 

Happens to me everytime after my car sits for over 30 minutes sometimes even less. I tried new Spark plugs today, that didn't do the trick.

 

my 06 will not start after i filled it at the pumps till second attempt but also had to put my foot on the throttle a little..at the time the check engine light had come on for the purge valve..(evap system purge valve) took it to the dealer and the replaced it and never had the problem after...

 

I have an 2002 Mini Cooper ( purchased 2 years ago ) - when I purchased it, it had 32K miles on it... It has done what it is being discussed on the thread since the day I purchased it.

Chantel

 

I have the problem. It's getting worse over time. When it's cold from sitting at least 8 hours it will fire right up but then immediately stumble almost to a stall then recover. It's stumbling deeper, now almost to a full stall. It makes no difference if it's hot or cold outside, parked indoors or out, A/C on or off, touch the throttle or not before startup ... I had it to the dealer just before my warranty ended. They said no codes and they could not duplicate it. They had it 3 days. I think it showed up just after I had it in for other work. Did they update my software and create this problem?? It acts like the cold start circuit is not giving a long enough spray, like a short fuel starvation. I WANT IT FIXED ! It didn't do it before!!! 2005 JCW - Patrick

 

Check to see if everything is plugged in correctly to your throttle body.

 

First, I have done searches and still find that I need some additional info to help me resolve this issue. BTW, I read this threads but no step-by-step How To exists to approach this and I would suggest that someone who is in the know write one and make it a sticky.

Anyhow,

My MCS has been in the garage for most of the last 3-4 weeks or so because of my travel, weather, and more time on my HD and Colorado for various reasons.

About 2 weeks ago I was taking it out in the evening and it was hard to start. When it did there was black smoke and when I stepped on the accellerator there was a "lag" or hesitation before it spooled up. A few minutes and the idle smoothed out and I went on my way. I gave it a "spirited" drive and ran it hard.

A few days later I had the same problem as above but it took longer to warm up. I reset the ecu and all seemed to be well.

When this took place I posted on my local club MINI site when I saw some info about replacement of the PCV valve. Sparky has 62 K now and so I ordered a new PCV (it has not arrived yet) and posted about my woes. One suggestion was that I clean my MAF sensor, as I use an oiled CAI and the thought was that the sensor may have gotten contaminated.

So I started searching for how to clean the MAF (I have done this before on my Corvette) but have not been able to find a step-by-step and hate to take things apart w/o some idea of how do do it.

A couple of posts indicated that the problem could be due to the alcohol in the fuel (most of the stuff around here is the 10% alcohol-gas mix. The car had been sitting, it has been wet and so I thought that it may be possible that moisture has built up.

I also saw suggestions that it would be advisable to use a lower octane gas (I use 93 since Sparky got a Jan-tune last summer; BTW he has been running like a champ since then).

Bentlet said this : http://tech.bentleypublishers.com/th...2986&tstart=60

I also have used the BMW gas additive but have not for at least 4or 5 K.

Since I have to go on about a 70 or 8 mile trip tonite as highway speeds, I decided to burn off some gas before I gas-up (I' at a half tank right now).

Now it stalled after the first try and ran very poorly. The check engine light came on and stayed on, even after 5 starts and restarts.

My questions:

• Should I clean the MAF and what are the steps?
• Can I drive it with the check engine light on
• Will the code clear or should I go see the local PepBoys or Advance Auto and have it read?
• What gas should I use?
• Should I add Textron to the fuel?
• What haven't I read or thought about that I should do.

Thanks for indulging me and special thanks for any help

 

R53's don't have MAF's.. They run on MAP sensors and that is not your problem.
MINI recommends 91+ octane. I would suggest 93 octane though. It really is night and day.
Go get your codes checked, write them down and clear then. You can drive with the light on. Fix the codes that came up. If the light comes on again wait a week and go check the codes again. If you are getting the same codes then you have a larger problem and may have to have that part replaced.

 

OK. I did drive it about 80-90 miles to burn some gas. The car ran perfectly when it was warm for just a few minutes and after sitting 3 hours started right up.

I stopped at PepBoys and waited and hour and 10 minutes to get the codes checked and cleared but when they got it hooked up they discovered they did not have the adapter for the MCS, so I went home unhappy.

I got some techron fuel additive and put it in when I got home. I will fill the tank tomorrow am with 93 octane (that is what I always use).

Thanks for the info, now I understand why I could not find a MAF sensor :-)
I'll follow your suggestions.

I am hoping that it was bad gas an then sitting so that the alcohol absorbed water.

Now I have to find someone else that can check and clear the codes tomorrow.

 

Also try seafoam. It works amazing and cleans out your motor! It'll definitely make your car more responsive.

http://www.seafoamsales.com/motor-treatment/index.html

 

Resetting your ECU seems to help many people....and in my area the problem seems to be seasonal....every time there is the switch to/from winter/summer fuel, it is like it takes the ECU a few weeks to adjust to the new higher/lower vapor pressure fuel, and the fact that not all stations switch at the same time does not help. We jokingly call it the MINI flu...since it seems to go away in a week or two.
As a side note....I have not had ANY problems since installing JCW injectors.

 

I started this am and it was running a bit rough on the start with some accellerator hesitation but less than yesterday--no black vapor fronm the exhaust. Warmed up it ran perfectly.

Refilled the tank with 9.6 gallons of 93 octane so I got a good mix with the Textron additive I put in last nite.

I just got back from a different PepBoys and they used a handheld scanner to check the codes. It returned several P0301 and P0302 codes- Misfire of cylinder 1 and 2 respectively.

More spirited driving to clean things out.

I have not pulled any plugs ( I expect little more than indications that I've been running rich at startup right now) but bought some dielectric grease and so I'll pull the wires (they are new as are the plugs, replaced when I got the Jan-tune) an make certain there is a good connection.

Any other ideas?

 

I was talking to a friend and we came to the conclusion that it could be fouled injectors. Like Zippy said, he had no problems when switching injectors.

 

Will the Techron take care of that? Or is there something else to use?

 

One thing to remember....have you changed your spark plugs lately? With the JCW, you do it basicly once per year if I remember right. When you put a pulley on an S, I think the same should be done. If you are getting misfires during start, you might be overdue for a plugs swap...especialy if you have done a pulley....unless you have irridum plugs that is.
Also remember to tourqe the plugs, and some say to use locktite to prevent them from blowing out.

 

My gut tells me the new injectors solved the problem in part because they can flow more fuel, which helps compensate for the higher fuel flow volume needed when running e10. While the change is not as drastic as when you convert a MINI to run on E85, it seems to me the more ethonal you run, the more capicity to inject fuel you need, and since almost all of the cold start issues that are the meat and patotes of this thread have appeared since the switch to e-10, and many who can still get fuel without ethonal suddenly have no problems...I think I may be onto something.
Any ideas?

 

Update

I have not had time to get out for another long spin but each day I have started the car and let it run for about 15 minutes each day. The car now sarts immediately, bu still has the lag or hesitation when the accellerator is depressed--the car is idling at about 1200 rpm and when the accellerator is depressit it drops to about 800 and then goes up. After about 5 minutes there is no hesitation at all.

It appears that the Techron and fresh fuel has helped but not cured.

The plugs are BRISK 12S and have about 4K on them. They a were replaced in March of this year. Wires were also replaced at that time when I had the 15% pulley installed.

 

I'm not sure if this is precisely the same issue, but for a while I was having intermittent issues with cold-start hesitation -- and almost stalling -- in my '05 MCSa, which I've owned for just over 4 months.

I had the PCV valve replaced about a week and half ago, and the car seems to run much more smoothly, and I haven't had any issues with hesitation or stalling since (knock on wood!).

I can't be entirely sure other factors weren't involved, but it did seem like the PCV valve replacement helped. If so, it's a pretty cheap fix.