EXACTLY SAME AS ME..... right down to turning the key made a difference for a while. Then nothing. We should talk.

I'm having new fuel pump and fuel filter put in this week. I will let you know what happens.

By the way....what is an internal fuse block?

Also: I shot some ether into my PCV tube and it started right up and ran perfect until it burned off....then stalled. = FUEL DELIVERY ISSUE. Try that test - it is cheap and easy diagnosis.

 

My problem was cured by installing a new internal fuse relay. Not sure how the first one burnt out as the only mod was factory driving lights. Happy to have working although I wish my clutch was as nice as the 2011 loaner. Mine is like pushing a palette of bricks every time I change gears.

 

Swizzle: Just out of curiosity....... How much did it cost to replace the internal fuse relay???? You can bet if you had this problem....many others will also.

I got a fuel pump (around $365 from dealer) and fuel filter (around $65 from dealer). The diagnostic, tinkering, and install for both was $200 bucks from a non-Mini shop where it finally broke down.

 

I have a 2005 automatic mini, close to 80,000 miles. Whenever I would take my car in for service, I would mention the slow start, and the almost stalling-out. It would looked at, "fixed", and it would seem to be a little better-for a short period of time. I was told, on one of my later visits, that it had to do with the type of transmission they was put into the 1st gens. Of course, they do not use the same ones now, from what I was told. Bottom line, not great news...

I did put in can of BG44 power enhancer, and it did seem to lessen that drag.
Only on its second gas tank, so not sure how long will last...

 

Cooper or S? Either way I'm not buying the transmission excuse you got....

 

A Cooper. And I did not buy the response either. Just another cover up, especially since the transmission was changed in later models.

 

At approx. 70,000 miles my 04 'S' began to sputter at idle and also when accelerating from a stop..Also many cranks on a cold start..Finally refused to start at all..Changed spark plugs and seem to have plenty of spark at plug wires..No help there..Pulled fuel pump from tank but did not entirely remove..Disconnected hose to engine, cranked engine and seemed to have plenty of fuel pressure (although I did not hook up a pressure gauge)..No help there..Then pulled fuel filter and found it to be covered and clogged with black gunk, probably from cheap gas..Ordered a new filter and O-ring set, about $30..Big help there..Absolutely fixed all idle and start problems instantly..

 

'05 MCS here.....
I thought that the fuel filter wasn't replaceable, that its permanent, at least in my car and beyond. Its supposedly part of the gas tank and can't be removed. Is that true?

 

I do not believe that is correct..I did mine back in the spring of this year and do not remember where I ordered it from online,but it was about $30-$35 then..I did a quick search this morninig and found them for $50 at Parts Train .com and Parts Bin.com..You may find better prices if you shop around..They list the same filter for 2003-2008 models 'S' or non 'S'..Some parts houses only sell the filter and float assembly together, these are in the $200 range..But anyway, the filter is replaceable..It is accessed under the back seat bottom..There are 2 lids there, driver side lid will take you to the fuel pump, passenger side lid will take you to the fuel filter..Messy job, use plenty of rags and an old turkey baster to remove gas from cannister..I did not drain the tank, just don't smoke or create a spark..I also used some great instruction I found on this website..This will help you alot..https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...hange-mcs.html Good luck.

 

Thanks, but don't forget that they made substantial changes to the car after 04. Not sure if that includes the fuel filter, but I was told by someone on here that that was the case.

 

I felt this issue might be related to spark...

I replaced coil, wires, and plugs and it didn't stumble as much... would usually stay running in fact. It did not solve it completely, but did help.

I swapped the factory coil back in and then it would stumble and shut off... this will not solve it for everyone, but there can be some de-lamination and flux leak in older coil packs.

 

I replaced the fuel filter, and then even the fuel pump trying to get this to go away... in my case, fuel system was good. I even put a fuel pressure gauge under-hood since I thought I might be loosing pressure as the car sat over time.

The gauge would show I could come back days later and still have around 80 psi fuel pressure at the engine.

 

I HAD SAME ISSUES AS EVERYONE IS REPORTING. ALSO, IT WAS INTERMITTENT. SOMETIMES, I WOULD FIND IT WOULD GO AWAY FOR A WHILE.....THEN IT WOULD COME BACK. I TRIED PLUGS, INTAKE CLEANING, WIRES, COIL, ALL THAT STUFF.....

MY SOLUION: FUEL PUMP (AND FUEL FILTER) - FIXED IT COMPLETELY

BASICALLY, I FEEL THE STUMBLING AND START ISSUE IS THE FUEL PUMP ON THE DOWNSLIDE TO EVENTUAL FAILURE. IT MIGHT LAST A WHILE....BUT SOONER OR LATER - IT'LL DIE ON YOU AS MINE DID 3 HOURS FROM MY HOME.

STUPID THING: JUST PRIOR TO MINE FAILING COMPLETELY (3 HOURS AWAY FROM MY HOME), I TOOK IT TO THE MINI DEALER AND ASKED THEM TO CHECK THE FUEL SYSTEM. THEY WANTED TO "START" BY CHARGING ME A DIAG FEE OF $99 - THEN, SAID THEY WANTED TO "START" BY REPLACING AND CHARGING ME FOR A WHOLE NEW SET OF PLUGS (WHICH WERE NEW ALREADY)...... I DECLINED THE PLUGS AND ASKED THEM TO EARN THE $99 DIAGNOSTIC FEE AND CONFIRM THE FUEL PUMP WAS OPERATING GOOD. THEY WERE LOOKING TO RUN DOWN A LIST OF "POTENTIAL AND COSTLY" FIXES BEFORE DOING ANYTHING USEFUL. SO I DROVE IT AWAY AFTER THEY CONFIRMED FUEL PUMP WAS FUNCTIONING PROPERLY.

i PAID THEM $99 AND THEY TOLD ME FUEL PUMP WAS OKAY. THE NEXT DAY I DROVE TO VISIT A CLIENT 3 HOURS AWAY AND IT DIED. WOULDN'T START AT ALL. I CALLED THE MINI DEALER AND ASKED THE TECH WHAT TYPE OF DIAGNOSTIC TEST HE PERFORMED ON THE FUEL PUMP..... HE SAID THEY DID A "VISUAL" INSPECTION.

FINALLY WHERE THE THING DIED.... i GOT SOME BACKWOODS MECHANIC WHO CHANGED THE FUEL PUMP AND FILTER AND IT RUNS GREAT FOR MANY MONTHS NOW.

 

So, I just bought a MCSa and it's at the BMW/Mini Dealership--- they're telling me PCV VALVE and that's what the codes are reading... is it safe to assume, that it's accurate, or is it a software gremlin.... or is it a fuel pump/filter thing? I don't want to spend $$$ on the valve only to still have the same problem. The first Mini dealership told me it was the battery (which is now new....) bother.

 

Hard to say without model year and miles....... I have seen many posts regarding the stumble and start issue happens often "around 70,000 miles" which mine is currently 77K. I'm convinced it is related to fuel filter and Fuel pump - even so.... many people swear tinkering with other things improve the situation.

First, I would like to welcome you to being a Mini owner. Second, you should buy your own code reader for about $40 to $60 bucks on amazon. The dealer charges you $100 bucks to read it. If you are throwing codes for bad PCV..... then yes, you should change PCV. This is a simple task - check out Youtube on how to do it yourself. Cheap and Easy.

Your problem may or may not be related to this thread which describes a common issue of start...stumble....stall..... then, start stumble stall..... then it starts and runs. (at least till fuel pump fails)

 

2005 MCSa 78k
Yeah I have a code reader and this is the second diagnostic I'm going through.

It threw the PCV when I was infront of the state trooper inspection center... brill, right? Oi.

But right now the car is at the dealers, i'm awaiting the litney of this is all wrong... and estimates.

First week I had it I had the crank, start, stall, start.
Then it progressed to crank, start, stall, start, stall, die.

...and now the code is clearly the PCV "A".

 

Well, you know you need the PVC valve - that's no biggie in cost /time. It is possible that you have more than 1 issue. I.E. Bad PCV and need fuel filter or fuel pump.

Dealerships (stealershops) are notorious for not being able to properly diagnose the issue related to start/stumble.... Usually, they will "start" by changing out many expensive things that don't need replacing.

PLEASE KEEP US POSTED!!!!

P.S. You Coop is same as mine 2005 MCS 78K. (Black and Cool as hell) PM me if you want some offline advice on keeping it tip top after solving these annoying woes.

K. motor city

 

For the occasional code check, the auto part stores (at least the ones here in Michigan) can do it for free. Some people like to have a code reader which is cool - but I've only ever throw a MIL light once, so I save the cash.

I think some will even let you take it home if you leave them with your DL.

 

So I had trouble starting the car and having it stay on. I took my mini to two dealerships.

The first said it was an electrical issue, they charged the battery and it ran fine for 5 days then died at the motor vehicles inspection center in front of the State Police Substation...

Took it to a BMW/Mini Dealership, they ran a diagnostic, said the crankshaft positioner was bad. Had that replaced...I don't recall the code, but have you tried to get your codes read somewhere not at the dealership? If the car is throwing lights. I was kinda shocked and mad because the Mini only dealership was 25% higher in cost...and they didn't ferret the problem. I bought a new battery and everything.

The crankshaft positioner when it goes bad cuts off fuel to the car, it does the jerking puttering struggling to run. The sensor itself is about $130, and you can replace it while the car is in service mode (yourself). Otherwise my dealership costs were $487 to replace that part, reprogram the car and replace the oil dipstick which broke.

Kermit is acting pretty normal now, but I think I do want to replace the spark plugs, fix the valve cover leaks and get a good 'clean'.

 

Not to sound flip, but you might have better luck in the 2nd gen forums....

 

My 03 R50 has this problem all the time. Especially after sitting overnight. Makes me worry something bigger is wrong in it.

 

Hi there guys,

I have an MCS 2004 with 70k miles and i have the same problem with the staling, the fact is whenever it stals the second time i try to star the engine the DCS light came on...its weird.
I have the stock coil (with ghe pin for the 3 piston oxidated), cables and spark plugs.
I think that it could be a failure delivering power to the 3rd chamber, what do u tjink guys?

 

I changed out my filter this week and it seems to have helped. Make sure to ready the notes on the Viaco (sp?) being too large as his cost me an hour and great frustration before I read to reuse the original o-ring.

 

My car has been having I think a similar issue, but with something I don't think I've seen on here (haven't been able to read all 30 pages). Mine will stall and rough idle, but there is also a strange popping sound coming from what sounds like the gas cap and/or the bottom of the fuel tank. I am saving up to get a new fuel pump since people say this may solve the issue but am open to suggestions? I would try to read the code (Check Engine Light is on) but there seems to be some connection issue with the OBD port and the ECU :/

 

I just started to have the issue with my 2007 Cooper s> Now it doesnt have to sit a long time maybe on 3-4 hours