^^^Good deal. I haven't had a problem with mine, yet that is.

 

Mine started displaying some odd cold start up behavior about two weeks ago. Severe missing and no power when the gas pedal was depressed. Rev it up a few times and it would clear itself. My 03 MCS just turned 60k btw. I read through the threads and saw that coil corrosion maybe a culprit. I pulled my plug wires and the connections on the coil for #2 and 3 were what looked to be rusty. I cleaned them up in a few minutes with scotchbrite and so far so good. Last few days it's been starting with no problems. Hopefully it stays fixed.

 

had this issue for awhile till the fuel pump went out. after replacement of the pump no more issue. although it now runs out of gas at a 1/4 tank on the guage. Dealer issue, soon to go back in to fix. other then normal maintance no major problems. BTW its a 05 S with 97000 miles and runs strong.

 

I had the problem again the other morning. Shut the car off, started it back up and fine. The coil cleaning seems to have helped but not completely solved the problem.

 

My 2008 R52 (first generation convertible) was towed for the first time this morning from my driveway. 36,000 miles or so with hardly a priblem until this morning. After sitting idle for a week it would turn over strong but not start.

After wading through this thread and trying a few things, I decided to let the dealer see what he thought.

As it was brought in he asked me if I would approve battery replacement if that's what it turned out to be. I told him the battery cranked strong and I even tried jumper cables just in case but it didn't do a thing. The tow driver tried them too and also suggested a Fonzie bang on the side of the tank might work. it didn't.

I told my service advisor I'd approve the battery if that's what it was, but I didn't think it would be. When I said I'd rather replace a battery than a fuel pump, he mentioned the pump would still be warrantied (my standard warranty was up in March 2008).

Of course, I'd rather it be a fuse than a fuel pump too.

We'll see what happens...

 

OK, after reading this thread I MAY have the same problem - I'll set out the facts and maybe someone can help?

Its a 2006 MCSa - has new plugs (the JCW colder heat range ones), new ignition wires, new air filter and fresh oil change. I've only had it since July (after trading in my 2005 MCS) and I always noticed that it seemed to struggle a little bit when I started it in the morning . . kind of like it would idle at too low RPM. Also, for the first 3 or 4 minutes the car would struggle to shift out of second or third gear by itself, i.e. it would just overrev without shifting up.

I got a 16% WMW pulley installed a couple of weeks ago along with the usual engine mount, poly bushing work (nothing else mechanical). Then a week ago, I start it and it just cuts out - when I turn the key again it starts and the Check Engine Soon light is on. I take it to my non-dealer mechanic (specializes in only Mini and BMW) and they turn off the light and say that the code it was throwing is a very unusual one, but is NOT related to the throttle body. They don't tell me what the actual code is unfortunately, and I didn't ask.

Car runs fine again until yesterday morning - same thing happens . . I was kind of ready for it this time and I tried to keep the car going by giving it a bit of gas. No joy. Turn it off and on again, starts fine but Check Engine Light is on again. Damn!

I reset the ECU last night - start it again and Check Engine Light still on.

Start it this morning and no Check Engine Light!!

I'm kind of mystified. Is is electrical, or software related, or throttle body related??

And ideas?

 

What's the code? Should start with "P" and have a four-digit number.

--Dutch

 

The mechanic didn't tell me - but I've got a call in to them so when they get back to me I'll post it up

 

Reasons Why Your Car Will STALL upon start up:

The following leaks will contribute to your car misfiring or stalling:
Engine Valve Cover Gasket Leak
Spark plug grommets leak
Oil Pan Gasket Leak
Dip Stick gasket leak
Need new spark plugs
Need a new coil pack
Need to clean your throttle body
Need to seafoam your engine and change your oil
Need to clean your TMAP and MAP sensor with electric cleaner

-You're using cheap gas such as Valero, Arco, Costco, and not Chevron or Shell
-You don't use chevron fuel or injector cleaner and have failed fuel pumps.
-You put super z6 snow chains on your mini and drove it through the snow which I did. It killed all the wheel speed sensors, if your wheel speed sensors are dead it will drive like there is a vaccum leak, if you grandma mode it it will stay alive, if you floor it, it will shut off on you and the DSC light will come on each time it shuts off.

Noonzio, it sounds like your wheel speed sensors are dead. If the gears slam your valve body is dead and you need to buy one from RevMax, refer to R53 fail at 80k via google and you will find an extensive 10 pager.

 

When this occurs on my 09 MCS it is a result of a low battery. The car sits for a while and the battery drains down to where there is insufficient voltage for all the sensors to work properly. After jumping the car it runs like crap until you can restart it by itself, then it it runs fine. However, various electrical components can and will fail because of the low voltage condition. Also, jumping the car with the door open will necessitate resetting the windows and the radio may also malfunction. But the biggest problem is the high pressure fuel pump, it was replaced for the third time last week after a recent jump start.

 

That is so true when I park my car for a long time it would stall too once my battery is fully charge and drive for a few day everything gose back to nomal even when I shout my door it would not even move up until I drove my mini for a few day then it work fine

 

Aloha,
I have a 2003 Mini Cooper S and I'm having the same problem. The only difference is that all of the lights on the dash goes crazy. When I try to start it again, the car is dead. No turn over at all. Gotta call and bother my friend AGAIN to come and jump me. I know it can't be the battery.

 

I had this problem, the tech told me to use lower grade gas... Sadly, it worked.

 

Ditto Ranger..... 2005 S with 90K+ Changed my pump and it shuts down dry at 1/4 to 1/8 tank. Same. Otherwise strong.

Other miniscule things..... Power steering pump fan, t-stat housing coolant leak, fuel pump, recently front end rubber bushing. Rest seems ok.

 

We had a 2002 Mini S before this 2007 and I think the Supercharged Mini was much better . We haven't had much trouble with either one just this recent hard start stuff, I think we may change choices to a VW GTI Turbo and try that for a while .

 

I will definitely try this tomorrow morning, since it does this only on the first start of the day. Will post results!

Thanks for sharing!

Cheers!

 

My 2002 R53 had the dreaded "stalling on starting" issue. It would take two or three turns of the key to get the started. It's been like this for the 8 years I've owned it.

I changed the fuel regulator a couple of years ago: no difference. I also had the injectors serviced: no difference.

I've just now completed a transplant of parts from a 2006 R53 into my 2002. Everything and I mean everything) except the fuel tank, fuel pump, in tank filter and fuel lines was swapped.

Essentially I have replaced the entire motor, drivetrain, wiring loom and computers (body and ECU).

My R53 now starts first time every time.

So, I can tell you in my case the issue was not:
Fuel filter
Fuel pump in tank
Fuel lines running from tank to fuel rail and back again.

Hope this helps other people with their troubleshooting.

 

Wow!:popcorn You did all that? Bummer........ How bout if you put the 2002 fuel system into the 2006 R53? Just kidding.

 

Please don't think I was being derogatory in any way kurschat - I am very grateful for your helpful suggestions
So just to be clear - I have always allowed the fuel pump to "prime" (make a noise) before starting. The only difference between it misfiring and working ok is pressing and releasing the gas pedal after "priming" before turning the key. Is this down to the fuel pump going south? What does pressing the gas pedal have to do with it?

 

The 2006 R53 was a crashed wreck, but it had all the face-lift goodies such as the up-rated supercharger, Quaife LSD diff, Zenon headlamps and HK stereo. It was a big job, but well worth it ... I now know so much more about my Mini

Oh and the ECU must be significantly different between the 2002 and 2006; it's like a completely different car to drive ... a lot smoother and has what appears to be more torque.

 

No problems mate - just trying to pinpoint this bugger. I remember how many threads and research I did when I had my problem. Somewhere, I thought I posted a list of "possible fixes - successes of other MINI" as a summary of all the reading I did.

I am theorizing that that this issue is likely several factors inter-related. Thus, the stumping of everyone.

I don't believe that pumping the gas pedal does anything prior to starting. In the "good ole days", it could position the carborator.....but we got fuel injectors nowadays. I'm pretty sure pumping the pedal prior to starting does naught (someone plz correct me if I'm wrong on this). However, your case sounds eerily just like mine in that it was very intermittent. The only factor that had any effect for me was Pre-priming the fuel pump - and even sometimes that did not work.

Good Luck....and PLZ keep me posted. I'm really curious now - maybe we could post a list of fixes for the "MINI flu" and see which is most successful.

 

Yes.! My mini also does this. I have a 2002 Mini Cooper S. It usually happens when I wake up in the morning to go to work. I'll start up the car it will coke then stall out. Then I restart the car and it works fine the rest of the day.

 

ANY UPDATES FELLAS? I am very curious if there is any change with Rayanmx or Newbie77?

1. Has problem mysteriously disappeared? (That has happened to some drivers - possibly related to seasonal fuel changes)

2. Is problem still there? If yes, Is it getting worse or just the same? Gonna ride it out until something breaks?

3. You got a fix. If yes, plz share what you did.... Vudu Mini dance, wiz in gas tank, kick the left tire while pulling your ear, or whatever made it go away.... Try to be a technical as possible.

 

Had this issue, mine was fixed by using lower grade gas. It starts right up every time after two months of changing fuel.

 

In my case I found no change at all... No matter what I do, it stalls two or three times in a row during the first morning starts.

Lower grade fuel fixed it for you Debi's Coop S? What octane are you talking about specifically?