This happened to mine this morning. I just got it back from the dealer for a service/inspection on Saturday. I've only had it a couple weeks, so we'll see if it happens again.

 

Hi now a have to wellcome my mini to this thread becose my mini starded this sice last week..So this is what i did to trye to find out what was the problem..In the morning you sit in the car and you dont tuch nothing then
you pout the key in and you turn the key 2 noch DONT START THE CAR you will ear the fuel pump DONT START THE CAR...then u do this 1 or 2 time then u start the car.. Mine start like it supose when y do this..IF you trye this and it work come and post you result..now that i tryed this i now that the fuel regulator as to be change it under the intercoller on the fuel rail..the presure drop during the night and that is what i think ..am open to all sugestion on this usue..

MC 2

 

"Hi, I now have to welcome my MINI to this thread become my MINI started this problem since last week... So this is what I did to try to find out what was the problem...In the morning you sit in the car and don't touch anything, then you put the key in and you turn the key 2 notches. DON'T START THE CAR, you will hear the fuel pump. DON'T START THE CAR...then you would do this 1 or 2 more times then you can start the car...Mine started like it was suppose to when I do this...IF you tried this method and it works, come and post your results...after trying out this method, I now know that the fuel regulator has to be changed under the intercooler on the fuel rail...I think the pressure drops during the night...but I am open to all suggestions on this issue...

MC2"

going to try this tomorrow...

 

Excellent translation!!

 

Thanks

 

Bump to try this and post result..Originally Posted by andy@ross-tech.com
Recently, before starting the car, I have done the following:

1) Turn key to ON position for 10 seconds but don't try to start the car
2) Turn key to OFF position
3) Turn key to ON position and start the car

Since the problems only seem to manifest themselves in the morning on the first start of the day, it'll take some time to find out if this really works. But, the past 3 starts have been smooth and successful

 

My '05 S has never had a start problem this time of year [Summer]. The problem revisits when the weather turns cooler -- Fall thru Spring.
-B

 

This is werd the problem was there for 5 or 6 day then it stop..now the car
start just fine ..make me but any adea about the problem.

MC 2

 

2001 Mini Cooper, on cold start in the morning the car begins to shiver like its about to die. Never died but its annoying. Second thing after a long trip, if I try to start it again takes 2x times to start. It always starts but takes a little longer.

I use 100 octane fuel (i use to go for the 95) and it resolved half of the problem.

 

I too need to add myself to the list, cept mine won't start, its sitting dead in my car-port.

02 MCS left it home for a week, tried to start it, just cranks and cranks, and does not turn over.

 

Agreed, seems to happen when temps fall below 72 degrees or so......soon as temps go back up, to 74, mine gets a hic-up of sorts and starts anyways, and when they get above 74 -78, no problem at all.

Must be somthing is expanding under higher temps, like some electronic circuit boards I have worked on which use attaching screws as part of the boards grounding.

Does this fuel pressure regulator have a ground or any electonics or is it purely mechanical ?

 

Yes, this happens to me all the time at long stop lights. Starts to rumble mostly, but also stalls much of the time. meh. I guess it doesnt bother me that much.

 

Ok, this post is in relation to my previous posts in this thread. It seems as though the Dallas dealer did not do anything wrong with my car and it was a fluke coincidence that only a few weeks later I started having another issue. To fix my after start-up stumble I simply needed a reflash of the ECU/DME with the newer software. After that, like I mentioned the car was fixed. However, as I mentioned, I did have worse issues not much later. Upon returning to CA I decided to go to South Bay Mini in Torrance where Stacy helped me out. They did an EXCELLENT job. It took them a little while, but they found out that I had a leaky fuel injector. Thus I was loosing fuel pressure durring start-up and not getting a well atomized spray from the injectors causing my issues. Before this I was trying to do the turn key to position 2 wait 5 sec, turn off and right back on, wait another 5, then start...and it wasn't helping.

I am happy to say that I am free of any start up issues and have been for at least a month now. Thank You Stacy and South Bay Mini!

 

Wanted to chip in here...I have been having cold start issue for several months (2006 MCSa) - motor would start and then choke and die, sometimes instead of dying, the engine would shake violently and RPM needle go up and down accompanied by EML and check engine lights of course.

I took my car twice to the dealer - first time they told me it was just a loose connector on the engine throttle. The problem went away for couple of weeks and came back again last week. Yesterday I brought it back and was told that the throttle body is faulty and the dealer replaced it.
Happy to report that the problem is gone and the car feels different, starts right away and the old hesitation when starting is gone - hopefully throttle body was the reason...but who knows, time will tell, thanks.

 

I have an 03 MCS, and I to suffer from this problem. It seems that if it's a cool morning it happens regularly, specifically in the mornings. I found out if a pump the accelerator a few times, it usually starts with no problem. Most times it farts and putters, then dies. Then after i restart it, it's fine with no hesitation. I beleive that it's a problem with the fuel pump not sending fuel to the injectors initially, but I could be wrong.

 

yuille36,

Pumping the acceleerator when? When it's sputtering, while cranking, or before [ignition on or off]?

-Barry

 

muy mini

After careful review, I have determined that pumping the accelerator does not solve the problem. Sometimes a combination of both these solution fixes the problem. I have determined that it's a fuel pressure problem. The pressure in your fuel lines, isn't adequate at first stop up. This is what works for me. When you get in your car, turn the key, but do not start the car, you'll hear your fuel pump initialize. After a few seconds start it, the car should start without it bogging down. If that doesn't work then pump that accelerator along with turning the key, but do not start the car initially. I tried it this morning, it was 50 degress out, and I live in Virginia. My car started with no problem, and it's a 03 MCS, that has alot of modifications.

 

I have also had this problem for some time now; I turn the key and the pump runs for 2 seconds, then I start the car, iIgot so used to doing this that iIdo it automatically every time. The problem is caused by the non return valve located in the pump; it fails to maintain the pressure in the fuel line and causes the engine to starve after siting for an extended period. To verify the complaint connect a fuel gauge then run the engine at idle and record the pressure, then switch the car off and record the pressure a half hour later. If the pressure dropped by half bar the condition is verified. Another reason can be the cause; leaking injectors. To verify this concern, take a ride and get the car up to speed, then release the gas pedal completely, while the car is coasting observe the o2 sensor value on an OBD-II scan tool (B1S1) the value should be at zero. If not the injectors are allowing fuel into the engine when there should be none; its best to take an assistant with you when you do any diagnosis involving reading live data from a scan tool; one person to drive and another to work the scanner.

 

the parts no 7 is the problem that is were the fuel is hold back for the night i think ..so if this valve is not working propely it might be the problem let me
some feed back on this ..

MC 2

 

The main valve in in the fuel tank on the fuel pump; its purpose is to maintain fuel pressure in the fuel line all the way from the tank and up to the fuel rail. item 7 is a vacuum controlled regulator that is responsible for maintaining the pressure differential on the injector as the pressure in the intake manifold changes. Your problem is in the tank!

 

Hi i like you to point me out using realOEM.com the part that shoult be change to solve the presure drop over night.. Thanks

MC 2

 

The main regulator is located in the right side of the tank and is accessible by lifting the rear seat cushion and removing the locking ring on the top of the passenger side of the tank. I looked at realoem but did not see the item listed.The fuel pump is located on the opposite side of the tank.

 

To those [not just yullie36] that think this problem is a pressure drop in the injector rails/supply, why does this problem only seem to surface when the temperature drops? I've never had my MINI do this in the late spring, summer thru early fall. Is this due to a greater temperature swing, remembering pv=nrt from chemistry, in the colder months...? How would increased alcohol in fuel, blended into gasoline during winter driving here, contribute to this problem? Oozing injectors caused by winter blend fuel? Sorry to be skeptical of this latest theory, we're pushing 600 posts in this thread, which might be the 'one,' but my skepticism [and cynicism ] is still healthy...

One more thing to toss out: When my MINI does the startup stutter, it feels like it's running rich, not lean. For any of you that ever raced motocross or dirt bikes, it's like a 2-stroke that got 'loaded-up,' due to gas pouring into the crankcase after a fall/crash. I know a MINI isn't a 2-stroke, but the throttle response after the stutter feels like a rich condition [it wants to rev up and down], instead of a lean conditiion [not wanting to rev and not wanting to let the RMPs drop].

Watching the discussion flow,

-B

 

The ECT plays a major role in determining how much fuel the engine will get while operating in open loop, especially when it is cold. The colder the engine, the more fuel enrichment will be required to start and maintain idle RPMs.

One sure way to determine if there is a fuel pressure bleed off causing hard starts is to conduct a simple experiment.

Turn the key to the on position, count to three, then crank the engine. If the car starts fine every time.........drum roll please.......it's a problem with fuel pressure not being maintained on the rail after engine shutdown!

 

I had an A/F gauge (air/fuel) hitched up to my 2005 S. When ever it had the startup stumble the gauge was reading lean big time , 16 to 1 or more. Normal startup was somewhat near 12 or 13 to 1 a/f on the cooler days.