Frustrated beyond measure - project car 2007 Mini Cooper S...new head gasket (after having head checked/cleaned - new HPFP (OEM), new vacuum pump, water pump, radiator, intercooler, aux water pump, hoses, main seal, and the list goes on..continue to get this 2885 fault when I give it some gas to move out. I can clear the code and drive it normally with no problems. There doesn't seem to be any real consensus on this code. I've read through all the forum posts and even contributed to a few.

Also have a problem keeping it running for the first three minutes following a fill-up...this might be the Evap Canister but I'm not sure....not the HPFP unless I got a bad one from ECS Tuning (just changed yesterday and filled the car with gas...you can start it and rev the engine for a few minutes and it'll work fine...no problems starting after this until the next fillup.

Have checked the Turbo/vacuum lines etc...nothing seems to be off...

Anyone have similar problems?
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My guess is either a boost leak or a faulty wastegate or diverter valve. But here are some other possible thingsIntake leaks - Leaks in the intake plumbing between the turbocharger and the intake manifold. Cracked pipes or loose fittings can leak boost pressure and reduce the boost.

* Worn turbocharger wastegate - A worn turbocharger wastegate will not seal properly and allow exhaust gasses to bypass the turbine wheel, resulting in lower turbine and compressor speeds and lower boost pressures.

* Turbocharger wastegate vacuum controller - The vacuum canister controller can stick or have a vacuum leak, preventing it from fully closing the wastegate.

* Turbocharger control pressure converter - The pressure converter controls the vacuum to the wastegate vacuum control canister via electrical signal from the engine management system. A faulty pressure converter can cause the wastegate to not be closed properly.

 

@Minifenrir Thank you...I'll look at those.I also meant to mention I get the "Limp Mode" light on the dash but I actually don't see where it makes a difference on the performance...I get it when I'm driving about 75 MPH and it keeps right on trucking.

 

Had the same code (plus a few others) on my 08 MCS. Turned out to be a combination of issues. The vacuum pump has a check valve in the lower brass port which is connected via hoses and tubes to the reservoir under the intake manifold. That in turn supplies the vacuum, through a solenoid valve, to the blow off valve on the turbo. My check valve wasn't "checking" so the vacuum from the reservoir was sucking oil into the lines and ultimately into the reservoir. The oil made the rubber hoses swell and eventually fall off their connections. I had to clear the vacuum pump check valve, replace the hoses, drain the oil from the reservoir, reconnect all and it works great now. No more code or half check engine light.

 

@Minifenrir thanks for the insight. I do believe it's definitely something to do with the vacuum system but I'm stumped...the vacuum pump is new...the hoses all look / feel solid. I'm leaning toward the wastegate but I'll need to double-check the vacuum lines again.

 

Have you tried adjusting your wastegate? If not try turning the nut closest to the wastegate 1 full turn closer to the wastegate, Then tighten the other nut. You’ll know if you go to far because you’ll get a 2884 code instead.

 

I was having the same issue, I tested the wastegate actuator with a handheld vacuum pump and with a bore camera thru the o2 sensor I was able to verify the wastegate was functioning correctly. I followed the vacuum hose down to the vacuum tank and found the hose to be very gummy, replace it and bam! Instant boost!

 

For 2885 code boost deviation plausibility, I have the answer. If you had to remove the cylinder head for any reason, you most likely mixed up the electrical connectors between the VANOS solenoid, fuel tank purge valve, and the boost wastegate solenoid. All three connectors are the same size and shape. All three have same orange and white wires. Only way to tell is to:

A. Clear all codes from your cars ECU/DME. Then unplug each connector for the VANOS solenoid, fuel purge valve, and wastegate solenoid one by one. Start car and get the check engine light. Scan the ECU for codes and see if that matches the component you unplugged the connector from.

B. You can also unplug the connector, use a multi meter and check continuity between the pins of the connector and the matching pins on the main wiring harness that plugs into the ECU. This method can also verify if you have a broken wire connection. FYI the orange wires must be a ground, because they all share the same pin 41 on main harness plug x60231. Plug x60232 is the middle harness (burgundy color). Be sure to unplug the battery first before checking the wiring.


Codes using Bimmerlink phone app and Veepak Bluetooth obd2 scanner

Codes using Bimmerlink phone app and Veepak Bluetooth obd2 scanner

Wiring harness pin out chart for top most (grey) DME plug

Vanos solenoid wiring diagram

Waste gate wiring diagram