2008 mini cooper S auto.

Long story short i can not communicate with the dme. Sent dme to G7 for testing and repair and they sent it back saying it had corrupt software which could mean just about anything especially as they offer a no problem found no charge service (no surprise they found something).

With the dme installed in the car the scanner will find 13 modules, There are meant to be 14 including the dme.

Unplug brake module and scanner finds 12, re-plug and finds 13. Same with every other module.

Check all the wiring including ohms between a unplugged module and the dme (no problems found in wiring)

checked all grounds and confirmed on a meter.

From the prints it shows that the dme is getting power from the wake up terminal 15 and Fuse 1. Scanner talking to other mods show t15 as good (also tests good with a meter at the dme). F1 is good and tests good with meter.

All other voltage readings seem good according to the scanner except t15 (acc) which i presume will only come on once the car is running. (some only come on when cranking)

Dme is not grounding the main power relay to power fuses 2,3,4,5 (wiring tests good from dme plug to relay).

Scanner shows no problem with alarm system. All codes point to failed to communicate with dme. (no pt can bus response from dme).

Now im stuck as i have no idea what to do. Everything is pointing to a dme that is not being powered up or has failed in a way that will not allow communication. This started soon after changing the timing chain and reconnecting the battery. Car spluttered to life then stalled, started second time then stalled, Then set a check engine light. Plugged in scanner and no dme found (have used scanner before and dme was always found)

Any suggestions

 

About 3 weeks ago, my ECU would not communicate; long story short I had to get a new ECU under warranty.

 

Did you check the relays next to the dme? Where are you located?

 

yes the relays tested good. With the dme unplugged i can ground the pin to call in the dme main relay and it works as designed.

Im in sw florida.

Tomorrow im going to load check the grounds (Maybe the ground is enough to show good on the meter but to weak to handle the load)
I did remove the strap from the engine mount to the body while doing the timing chain so that might be a good place to start.

I would like to get my hands on another dme even if it was naff just so i could confirm that the car wiring has a problem that is preventing it from communicating rather than second guessing if the dme is the problem but that seems like a expensive way to test.

My other concerns is with the networks, is it possible that all pt-can communication is down and the obd plug is using a different network? I do not think this is the case as unplugging the power steering pt_bus causes the module to drop off line but i can not be sure (from the prints i can only see one network on the dme but im not 100% sure).

 

The gnd strap normally effects the starter but not the dme. But it a start as you said.

There are three busses; pt-can, k-can, and most ring (audio/fiber). They all stem out of the main fuse box behind the passenger kick panel. Try replugging the dme and check the pins for bends and such.

Some dmes on ebay can be as cheap as $60 or even less.

 

Still no joy.

In case any one ever has a dme with a ground that tests bad, the grounding point is located under the fuse box bolted horizontal to the inner frame (all 3 grounds are connected there)

 

Anyone know of a way to bench wire the dme and connect it to a obd 2 port scanner.

 

Here is the pinout of the DME

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...-s-hat/ZIwmPno

40 and 52 are the PT bus signals.

 

thanks for the pin out.

Everything is pointing to a dme that does not power up.

I suspect that the scanner is using the obd2 wire on pin 10 and can not find the dme

Other modules are complaining that the dme is not responding when asked for information.

So that means i have 2 different networks down even though both will communicate with all other modules or i have a dme that is not online.

checked power on pin 15 and its good
checked power on pin 1 and its good
checked all 3 grounds 3-4-53 they test good
tested can resistance 57 ohms between lines
tested between the can wires at the power steering and the dme plugs and they test good
tested wake up line at pin 19 its good
tested dme relay and ohmed plug to relay base from pin 28
with dme unhooked grounded 28 from plug to check relay worked and fuses 2,3,4,5 powered up

only thing i can think of now is to find a used dme to test. I know the car will not run as the dme has to be matched to vin,etc but it should at least show that its online and un-happy

only thing is which dme do i look for as none match all the numbers on the unit.

mine is a
bosch 0 261 S04 362
DME 7 586 132

 

You'd need one with this number 7 586 132.

call the dealer to see if they cover this type of malfunction.

you could buy k-tag (tuning device) and see if you can pull the eeprom.

 

Any one know or has a web site that can help me source a dme

Mine is a DME 7 586 132. It also has the numbers Tv 35796 which i believe is like a vin number on mini's

From other post i have read the DME 7 586 132 was updated 2 or 3 times but im not 100% what the replacement numbers are.

The car is a early 08 mini cooper S automatic.

 

I buy them from ebay and sometimes i find them in car-part.com

The second number is the last 7 numbers of your VIN.

 

OK i finally have the new DME and she runs but just like a mini shes now complaining about a fuel rail pressure sensor. Any idea where to buy one,

 

finally fixed.

If i had to guess the high side of a coil used the ecu and fuel sensor as a path which caused all the problems.

I was so happy to drive it to work today then on the way home the drivers side mirror glass fell out and smashed. Oh well at least that is a easy fix.

 

glad you're back on the road

 

[QUOTE=gpop;4470894]finally fixed.

If i had to guess the high side of a coil used the ecu and fuel sensor as a path which caused all the problems.

I was so happy to drive it to work today then on the way home the drivers side mirror glass fell out and smashed. Oh well at lest that is a easy fix
so what you do to fix it

 

What did you do to fix this?