I have 2010 r56 re installing a rebuilt head. Trying to install the timing chain. When I lock everything up with the tool and install the chain and tensioner. As soon as I take off the cam locking tool the cams move over to the tensioner side I rotate the engine and of course the timing no longer line up. I reset the timing 3 times does the same thing. Am I doing something wrong. All components are new... it appears to have too much tension or am i overthinking it. I can manually move the camms back into the correct spot with the crank pin installed. Is it safe to proceed?

 

You cannot torque the tensioner all the way in initially. If you get the correct timiing kit, it should also come with an adjustable tensioner. Then you can lock up your cams and flywheel and insert the adjustable tensioner. The little hex drive screw is what you need to pay attention to. Some people use hand feel so that the chain is just in taught. I'd follow the book and torque that to something like 34 in-lbs (need to check this value). Once that's done, then you can go crazy to torque up your cams and crank bolt. Once you're done, do a final torque check again before you remove the adjustable tensioner and put the actual tensioner in. Once this is done, you can then remove your locking pins and braces. Even now, it's best to hand crank the crank pulley a few rotations and get it to TDC and lock the flywheel again and put the alignment blocks back on the cams to check alignment. I usually repeat this three times before I call it done.

 

I did use the pre tension tool. I'll try one more time. It is really difficult to get the tensioner in. It's like is under pressure the moment I try to start it. Thanks for you help

 

I beg to differ....the method i use has proven to be awesome by me..lol. generally speaking, you always want the slack to be to in the direction of the tensioner so it can pull it. So simply put, here is the sequence i follow and by the way, i never used the pretensioner too!:

1- set the timing with the tools and lock the cams in place.
2- install the bolts on the sprockets (intake, exhaust, and crankshaft) but do not tighten them, let the chain be able to move clock or counter clock direction.
3- torque the intake sprocket first. 20Nm + 180 degrees.
4- install the tensioner and torque. 80Nm.
5- torque exhaust sprocket. 20Nm + 90 degrees.
6- torque crankshaft bolt. 50Nm + 180 degrees.

once done, remove the locking tools and spin by hand to verify.

please take note, you cannot keep torquing the cam bolts again and again. if you have another set, please use that.

 

The above shortcuts are great for someone with previous Mini repair experience. For the "newbie" I recommend using the repair instruction set found here --- https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/ --- specifically "Replacing the timing chain \PREMIUM". It's fully illustrated and probably has too much info, but it should get the job done for you. Just be sure to follow the torque settings carefully.

One more hint --- when the cams and crank are chained together, NEVER rotate the engine CCW! Vanos and various pumps don't like CCW rotation.

 

5th time was the charm. Thanks for all your advice. I ended up just loosening all the bolts and resetting the tension replacing the cam bolts. Must not have gotten all the slack out of the chain side . I replaced it before never had this issue.

 

Great news, very happy it all worked out for you. It is a bit nerve wracking doing this job.

 

If memory serves me it is 5 in-lbs. I had to buy a small beam style torque wrench to get it correct.