Hi All,


Looking for a little help, please.


Bentley manual states that you tension the chain using the manual tensioning devices (tightening it's bolt head to 0.6nm or 5.3 pounds inches..) and then tighten the cam sprockets and the main crank bolt. After this you release the manual tensioner and put in the standard BMW tensioner device. After that, this means the timing is all correct and the inlet vanos is perfectly setup.


What we are finding tricky is finding a torque wrench that goes as low as 0.6nm or 5.3 pounds INCHES (not feet).


We had to just estimate the torque setting as we didn't have a wrench that goes that low and after our re-build we are getting vanos codes non stop.


Does any experienced individual have confirmation that the torque figure really is as low as 0.6nm / 5.3 pounds inches and if so, what tool did they use for this?


Thanks as always (PS, now 644 miles on the new forged engine. Rebuild went great and will get this vanos issue fixed and finish running in by Tuesday, when we will change the oil and run the car up properly on the dyno).


Cheers!

Steven RW

 

A 1/4 drive torque wrench is what we used. We might have one HERE if needed. You can always take a look at our tech articles as if there isn't info directly in them about these items, at the bottom of them people ask questions and one of our specialist comes in with an answer. You can also ask questions like these directly on the article if you do not see your answer. This article is on our site under MINI > tech info (tab at top) > R56 articles.

 

Hi Stephen, I also used a ¼" "torque sensing wrench" --- made by Utica. Had it for a VERY long time, and it hasn't had much use --- almost none 'til I started working on the Mini.

Throwing codes after setting chain tension appears to be a common problem. Most have found a bad sensor or dirty tensioner, but I expect you've already checked these things. Let us know how you fixed it?

 

PP and OBW: Thanks for the replies. I see that PP have a screw driver that can adjust from VERY low torque levels which is what is required for this particular activity.


I am hunting down why I have the code (and the yo yo feel on the throttle at times) and the ONLY part of the timing that we didn't do utterly to the letter is the amount of tension we put on the chain using the manual tensioner. I believe, strongly, that we put close to the right (very low) amount of tension but it was the only moment we didn't meet the exact torque requirements.


Step 1: Take out the vanos solenoid and check it and clean it as fully as possible. Make sure it is correctly seated (if we can do such a thing).


Step 2: I have ordered a new cam chain tensioner. I believe it was all changed by BMW 20k miles ago, however to give comfort I will install a new up to date cam chain tensioner


Step 3: I have bought new cam sprocket bolts, so if necessary we can release all the timing and reset it once more


Step 4: If none of that works, we will replace the vanos solenoid but I want to go through steps 1-3 first before buying and replacing a part that worked perfectly before we took it out of the engine and it sat in a box for a year




Final comment: I am trying to work out how having a slightly too high or slightly too low tension on the chain by the manual tensioner would impact the timing of the cams/crank. They were all locked in place using the pin in the Helix flywheel and the cam locks up top. I am starting to think it is not to do with that and it is something to do with the vanos solenoid or the cam chain tensioner just isn't working like it used to before we took it out.


I will update as I go. The engine, otherwise, is great with perfect sealing valves and great leak down results. The fun part, after this, is to add the second turbo, external wastegate(s) etc. That should be amusing and the extra exhaust manifold take off (4 individual pipes from each of the current manifold pipes) is under construction. This will feed the external wastegate which will then feed the second turbo.


Cheers


Steven RW