So I took my 2009 mini s into the dealership to get the footwell module replaced and they decided to give it the once over. They are saying that it has several oil leaks. They said the vacuum pump/engine harness is leaking $1885 to fix.
The oil filter housing is leaking $1490 to fix. And the turbo oil feed lines are leaking $1115 to fix. This after the already $1009 for the to fix the footwell module. Looking at the pictures, I can see the oil filter housing leaking but the rest? This dealership stuff on this car is ridiculous. Last year I spent $4500 to replace an entire transmission and transfer case on a 2008 Acura MDX. This was done at the dealership as well. Mini wants the same price to fix some leaks?

 

A couple of those leaks do need to be addressed. Have you looked into an independent that works on Mini's? You'd pay probably half and could put off a couple of them..

 

Yes. Looking into an independent for sure.....Which ones need to be addressed and which ones put off?

 

If you're going to get into the engine to replace some of these leaks you might as well tackle them all. I recommend doing the repairs yourself if possible - Detroit Tuned makes an awesome turbo oil line super kit that contains a different design oil line, one that will not leak in the future. It also comes with the oil filter housing gasket, and you can purchase the oil cooler gasket which you could replace at the same time for another $20 or so. In total it's less than $200 in parts, the rest is labor. I don't know about the vacuum pump leaks though, that could be more.

The working space is very very tight but I managed to get it done over a weekend with a friend, while also replacing the DP and IC. Saved me a ton of money, the dealer wanted $1200 for the oil filter housing repair alone, and I spent the $200 on parts and another $800 on the DP/IC instead

 

I would diy or try to find any indy shop.

Oil filter Housing DIY AND oil Lines

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...leak-pics.html

Turbo oil lines and oil filter gasket can be done at the same time.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-oil-line.html


I did my all at once, beat my hands up a bit.

 

These repairs beat up my whole body...when i was done I had rashes on the side of my back because I was on the ground trying so hard to get some of these bolts off. Not to mention neck strain from holding it at weird angles, and my fingers were sore from trying to ratchet these small bolts when I could only stick a couple fingers to the wrench.

 

I know i was sore, it was a busy day. A couple weeks before I did the thermo/ pump / whole coolant thing.

 

I figured it would be one of those pain in the a$$ jobs. Would it be easier if it was on a rack?

 

"The oil filter housing is leaking $1490 to fix. And the turbo oil feed lines are leaking $1115 to fix."


Not sure what part of the country you are located but it is usually about $1400 parts and labor to do the housing and turbo feed lines around New England at the dealership. (done together since they are pretty much in the same location in the car)
So that quote must be wrong, and the vacuum pump itself is quite expensive, but I am not sure what the leaking "engine harness" would be, oil in the DME is more of a N18 engine problem, would need more explanation on that??,...


The beauty of the dealer doing the work is that the work is covered for 2yrs/unlimited mileage so you have the piece of mind that if it leaks again, you are covered,...


I noticed the hoses for the aux coolant pump are also very swollen and should be replaced while everything is apart, maybe already included in quote?

 

Yes, if you have a rack , much easier. I had a rack to do it. You can adjust the rack down to right above your head and lock it. Then you arms can reach up from the bottom.

 

What's DP/IC?

 

ok....picked up the mini from the dealer today and the new foot well module installed and programmed. $998.47 OTD.

To continue on the oil leaking issues, this is what my invoice says regarding:
Vacuum Pump Leaking Oil, Engine Wiring Harness Oil Contamination with O2 Sensors, Oil Feed Line Leaking Oil, Oil Filter Housing Leaking Oil, Turbo Leaking Oil.

I am on Detroit Tuned website and I am ordering the Turbo Line Super Kit and the oil cooler seals for a DIY job. I'm guessing that my purchases should fix the oil feed line leaking oil and oil filter housing leaking oil. Not sure about vacuum pump leaking oil, that engine wiring harness oil contamination with o2 sensors and the turbo leaking oil.
Any feedback?

 

Downpipe and intercooler. Weren't related to the oil leaks, but since I'm prepping for Manic Stage 2, I need to install these mods at the same time. I had to remove the DP to access the turbo oil line so I decided to replace it at the same time. So not only did I fix my coolant/oil leak, I got a little more power and better exhaust tone as well

 

I just finished all the repairs. Replaced the vacuum pump, replaced the turbo oil feed lines, replaced the oil filter housing gaskets and the oil cooler gaskets. I put the vehicle all back together and took it for a test drive. Everything seemed fine but when I got home from my short drive, there was some oil dripping down from the oil filter housing. I cleaned up everything pretty good when I was in there but could this be leftover oil from the old leak? Is it possible that the actual oil filter housing is leaking? Before I jump to conclusions, should I just wait a few drives and see if it continues to leak? After all that hard work, I'm feeling very frustrated.

 

Did you do both outer and inner gaskets ? Make sure the bolts are torqued down all the way.

 

yes I did both sides of the oil filter housing and torqued all down.

 

So this is where I am with replacing the stock turbo oil supply line. Upper heat shield removed. Down pipe to second cat v clamp bolt removed (hacksaw job on the bolt), both O2 sensors are out.
I am at the point of removing the lower heat shield. It has 4 10mm across flats screws . The two lower ones look accessible, the two upper not so easy. In fact it looks like to reinstall these two is going to be extremely tricky.
Comments please.

Note, I do have the front end ready to go into the service mode, I am waiting on a buddy to help slide the front end. I am replacing the stock with the Detroit tuned part.
2008 CooperS manual tranny

 

At about the point where you are I put mine into service mode. It makes the job much easier with the extra 2 1/2 inches of room. Loosen the bolts on the bottom brackets of the downpipe and the top 3 bolts to the turbo. Once you you do that, remove the lower heat shield (it should slide out easily now). Then the down pipe slides out easily from the bottom as well. Then all you need to do is remove that 3rd heat shield to access the oil feed line.

 

Thanks lasher, appreciate the reply. My original concern were the two upper screws (4 total) that hold the lower heat shield in place. They look extremely difficult to get at.
How did you find accessing those?.

 

I used a 1/4" ratchet with a couple inch extension to get at these bolts from below, and had a friend hold the ratchet in place from above while I rotated the ratchet. Otherwise it was too wobbly to get any grip on the bolt. When I was putting the car back together I didn't bother putting the top two back in since I was doing it alone.

 

Thanks 3lusive. Funny you should reply at this moment as I have just picked up an extension for my 1/4" ratchet. I have a buddy coming over this evening to help get the "service" mode to slide out, so the extra pair of hands will help holding the ratchet. I am also considering not putting these screws back, but as I am in no immediate rush to use the car, I will probably wait for the "assist".

 

I used a combination of ratchets and extensions. I did it by myself and I also did not put them back in.

 

OK I have the DT tuning parts. Top banjo is installed. When Icame to tighten the lower banjo to 22 ft lbs per DT and the Bentley manual, the bolt started to shear. I put this down to maybe old bolt was fatigued. Purchased two more bolts with washers. I started to tighten again, using a friends torque wrench, just in case mine was reading wrong and had the new bolt start to fail. Any suggestions?

 

Could it be that you read it wrong and it is in Nm instead of FT Lb?!?!? 22Nm sounds more realistic for those banjo bolts

 

Thanks Bloke. Both Detroit tuning and the Bentley manual have the same torque, ie, 22 ft lbs (30 Nm). I was thinking of just tightening to 75% of this, ie, 17 ft-lbs, which would equate to the 22 Nm you suggest. I am going to call Detroit Tuning and see what they have to say.