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R56 Question About Turbo Oil Line

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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 01:59 PM
  #1  
MiniPitCrew's Avatar
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Question About Turbo Oil Line

I have a question about the turbocharger oil line on our 2008 MCS. I have read the threads about early failures (oil leaks) from the oil line due to the factory use of an O-ring in the attachment fitting. We bought our 2008 MCS used with 92,000 miles on it and was curious to know if ours still has the OEM O-ring, or was replaced with an aftermarket style. I took a close look at the attachment fitting, and I can see that there are bronze crush washers on the top and bottom of the attachment fitting where the banjo bolt goes through. Furthermore, there is no evidence of any oil leaking in the area of that fitting. Questions:
1. Since I can see crush washers on the fitting, does that mean this oil line has been replaced with a style that eliminates the failure-prone O-ring?
2. Even if the OEM O-ring style were still in place, I assume it would be OK to keep running with it as long as no oil leaks are seen in the area of the fitting, correct?
 
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 02:11 PM
  #2  
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countryboyshane
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From: Bloomfield, MI
Originally Posted by MiniPitCrew
I have a question about the turbocharger oil line on our 2008 MCS. I have read the threads about early failures (oil leaks) from the oil line due to the factory use of an O-ring in the attachment fitting. We bought our 2008 MCS used with 92,000 miles on it and was curious to know if ours still has the OEM O-ring, or was replaced with an aftermarket style. I took a close look at the attachment fitting, and I can see that there are bronze crush washers on the top and bottom of the attachment fitting where the banjo bolt goes through. Furthermore, there is no evidence of any oil leaking in the area of that fitting. Questions:
1. Since I can see crush washers on the fitting, does that mean this oil line has been replaced with a style that eliminates the failure-prone O-ring?
2. Even if the OEM O-ring style were still in place, I assume it would be OK to keep running with it as long as no oil leaks are seen in the area of the fitting, correct?
1. The OEM fitting has crush washers. The tell tale sign you have an aftermarket turbo oil line is if the line has a braided stainless steel hose.

2. Fix as fail unless you plan on storing it in the winter. It would be a good project to take on in the winter when it's stored away. The line will leak eventually.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2013 | 06:05 AM
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MiniPitCrew
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Thanks for the reply, Countryboy. Sounds like good advice to me. The oil line is not braided stainless steel, so it looks like we have the OEM line installed. I'll continue to monitor it for leaks.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2013 | 06:35 AM
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Yea the OEM Line look like this below.

On the top side of the turbo,



#6 in the above diagram is the line that runs from the front of the engine to the top rear of the turbo and will leak oil up near the top.

Turbo Oil Pipe Line #11657534454


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/11657534454/





And

#9 Turbo Oil Return Pipe is located at the very bottom of the turbo and is the hardest one to see. It will leak oil from the top of that part sometimes.

Turbo Oil Return Pipe part #11657583838


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/11657583838/





Hope that explains it and if you can get a better picture of the part and what to look for.


Here is the new full kit :

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/11657534454/





Thanks
 
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Last edited by ECSTuning; Sep 3, 2015 at 05:46 AM.
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Old Sep 12, 2013 | 02:57 PM
  #5  
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From: Washington 360
I'd wait until it starts to leak before you replace it. No point fixing something that isn't broke. I have a 07 with orginal lines and i have no leakes anywhere on mine.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2013 | 01:27 PM
  #6  
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does ECS offer an aftermarket solution that gets rid of the o-ring and leaking? mine is leaking where the line goes into the crimped fitting on the top banjo fitting.
How hard is it to change the line? do you get at the lower fitting from underneath the car? or go in from the side ?
thanks
 
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Old Sep 13, 2013 | 04:48 PM
  #7  
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From: Northern Wisconsin
David, this thread in the "How to's" will pretty much answer your questions.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...feed-line.html
 
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Old Sep 16, 2013 | 01:31 PM
  #8  
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David - We have the MINI factory line , make sure you get new crush washers with the MINI line. Part 11657534454

Gasket ring - Two for each connection ( one top and one bottom ) Part #07119963151


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/07119963151/




&

The hollow banjo bolt , one for each connection: Part # 07119905176


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/07119905176/ES2677552/




For removal DIY linked above

The down pipe exhaust gasket clamp: Part # 18302756352

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/18302756352/



&

There is two different type gaskets dependent on the turbo. One is a Three metal sandwich type and one is two metal sandwich type.

Exhaust Gasket * On applies to turbo : 11657565912 Three ring sandwich metal gasket.


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/18307574127/





Or

Exhaust Gasket Only applies to turbo 11657600890 * Two ring sandwich metal gasket.


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/18307589503/




You can remove the old gasket and see which type you have to match them up, or look very closely between the down-pipe and the gasket edge, and see the gasket to determine the type. Other then part number.

I installed the heat resistant plate for a little added heat protection to that top line.

Heat Resistant Plate Part # 11657634747


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/11657634747/




Good luck and thanks.
 
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