Back story:
After an intense de-carbonizing and cleaning the crap out of everything intake, my throttle body started (occasionally) giving me the 2B22 code (fails TB return spring test). At first a simple restart cleared it, but eventually it would happen every start and the half-motor wouldn't go away (unless I cleared it with my Foxwell/Schwaubel NT520. So, I replaced the throttle body. Did the 2-hour battery disconnect as I read from others here and it started fine. Nice idle. Thought all was good. But no turbo. I have a silicon turbo down (no turbo muffler) and a silicon intake tube (no sound generator) so I can usually here the big gulping during throttle up, and the 'peewwww' of the turbo diverter when you get off the throttle. Neither were apparent, nor was the turbo acceleration.

At first I thought it was the turbo/vacuum lines since they 'slipped' off before down at the Vac Can (my Vac lines were pretty oil-goobered from the previous owner, she had some HUGE oil leaks that I went thru and fixed - it was the oil filter pedestal). I tested the Wastegate solenoid/valve and the diverter with my NT520, you could here it click and when doing it with the engine running the rams would change, so it's not the solenoid/valve or diverter or their connections. So, next, I replaced the Vac Lines. I figured if I'm going in I might as well replace them. As I took them off I heard hissing, vacuum was still present in the system even after having the car down for over a week. Did the change out, checked all....still no turbo.

Could this be the 'programming' that some people say is needed when changing the TB? I've read people saying you must have it programmed or the car won't even start (mine started, hell, it''ll do 80 mph, but no turbo - takes awhile to get there). I also read other's who have merely did the battery disconnect and all is good...but did they have a turbo? I really don't want to make a 200 mile round trip to a Stealership just to have them play under the hood for hours and hours...but if a simple re-programming is needed I'll do it.

Any input greatly appreciated.

2009 JCW w/ auto tranny. Approx 58k miles.

 

Oh, and BTW, when the turbo doesn't come on it'll eventually get a 1/2 motor and when reading with the NT520 I get 2885, fuel adaptation.
I'm sure it's trying to overcome the lack of turbo and pushing the parameters. That clears no problem, but comes back, of course.

I left it at home today with the battery disconnected in hopes it will finally accept the new TB...just grabbing at straws now.

 

Nothing? Really? I though this was the premier Mini site to go to...?

Let me ask this question then:
Does the calibration of the throttle body have anything to do with the turbo charger not kicking in?

Also,
Let me get this straight, the waste gate is normally closed, right? Allowing boost. And only when vacuum is applied it will open, releasing pressure and 'turning off' the boost, right?
If so, I can easily test his with a hand pump.

But I'd really like to get some input from you guys that have been around these cars for awhile.

 

So after you clear the codes, what comes back?

did you check the fuel pressure using the scan tool?

how healthy looking are the spark plugs, especially the gaps?

 

I get a 1/2 engine light and code 2885 fuel adaptation. But no CEL on the middle dash, just get that code when I use the BMW/MINI function on the scan tool.
Spark plugs are new.
I don't see how the fuel pressure plays a part, the car runs great, up to 80mph (so far) but without turbo...just takes awhile to get there. No fuel pressure codes, but I will check the pressure tonight with my scan tool ( I think theres a function for that).

 

With these cars, everything is tied to each other. I once had bad spark plugs, and the car felt weak. It would only give me 1/2 engine light. If the fuel pressure isnt enough, the ecu will tell the turbo to hold off since thw air/fuel ratio will not be at optimum performance point.

lastly, with 54k miles, have you checked the timing chain condition for maintenance. The tensioner tends to go bad especially with long periods of oil changes.

 

Timing chain checked about a month ago, good. Did the tensioner at that time just to be ahead of the curve.
From what I am starting to understand is that the turbo comes on from inputs from the MAP and Boost sensor, as well as the throttle position.
I'm going to test the Boost and MAP (easily done with a hand pump and a volt meter - 0.5-4.5 VDC when 0.2-2.5 BAR applied), as well as check the fuel pressure (scan tool, I hope).
Maybe I banged one of those sensors in the TB install. If they check out, a local guy can do a $60 recalibration on the TB.

 

Though I'd keep posting, just in case someone else has this issue.

MAP and Boost sensors checked out (hand pump, voltmeter), Fuel pressure in spec (scan tool).
Took it out for drive after over 24 hours of battery disconnect, no change, battery disconnect does nothing (3 attempt).

Funny thing...first few times code 2885 was defined (by my scan tool) as Fuel Adaptation. Yesterday 2885 was defined as Boost Pressure Deviation.

Also, the turbo is coming on. The actuator arm that runs under the turbo is moving and I can hear the 'peeewwww' when I back off the throttle at high rpm's, just not nearly as loud as before, nor is the boost in my a$$-accelerometer as great.

 

No experience with the TB! Did you replace the entire manifold, or just the TB? The WG actuator is mounted under the manifold and may have been "disturbed".

Waste gate is wide open with engine off. Engine on and vacuum is applied to close WG. Normal operation is controlled by the ECU --- Waste Gate Duty Cycle (WGDC on the OBDII) Can't help with what goes into calculating WGDC. Lotsa 2885's are caused by a defective WG --- loose, broken, dirty, etc. Maybe pull the DP and inspect it? Find a vacuum pump and test it? I read somewhere the vac pump pulls about 9"Hg, but I don't trust my memory either. Check yours and duplicate it with a hand pump?

Best of luck ---

 

Removed the WG Solenoid from the manifold (slid it rubber bracket off the steel tongue). When I went back to put on new vac lines all this was inspected. I can test ('activate') the WG solenoid from my scan tool, it functions properly, also since I do get some charge the vac lines, WG solenoid and WG are all working.
I also noted that even after the car sits for days, when I take the vac line off the WG actuator, there is still vac in the lines. System good.

Also tested the other inputs for the turbo system, the Boost & MAP sensors. Both good. Only thing left is to calibrate the TB. That's going to happen Friday morning at a local place ($60). I'll post the outcome.

 

Whelp....Calibration of the TB didn't fix it. It does idle lower and...maybe....even smoother. It runs great and appears that the turbo is doing something, just not that well.
Next step: MAP. Maybe my testing wasn't that good. After that, Boost sensor, after that the vacuum solenoid. Order based on $$$ and ease.

 

Can the shop provide more in depth obd reading to see what's working and what's not?

 

All I have been getting is a 1/2 motor light (steering pod, not on the center console) and when I scan it I get the MINI code 2885 (no OBDII codes).
At first the tool said 2885 is Fuel adaptation, after my second attempt at the battery disconnect style of calibrating -that doesn't work- it started saying 2885 is a Boost Deviation.

Thinking maybe the MAP got damaged, never touched the Boost/Temp sensor.
I tried bench testing both, seemed OK.
I got the last time recorded (this morning) and maybe have a Freeze Frame, just got to work from the auto shop and haven't checked it yet.

 

Spend some time instead of money --- remove the DP and physically inspect the WG. Just 'cause the mechanism is functioning doesn't mean the WG is actually closing. Yes, replacing a bad WG is very costly, but so are all the "little things" you suggest, when added up, 'specially if they're not the problem.

 

I agree on the time vs money thing. I'm all for investigating, both saves $$$ and some fool mechanic who wants me to replace everything.

....um, whats a DP? Is that the vacuum solenoid that turns the vacuum on and off to the WG (under the TB)?
My plan is the 2 cheap sensors first, then that vac solenoid. Lastly the WG inspect. Only because everything (as far as turbo) was working excellent before the TB change. Maybe I smacked the MAP or the Vac Solenoid?

 

Oh, Down Pipe! Yep, on the list after the sensors.

 

Sorry, I'm getting lazier with old age and abbreviate too much. Yes, down pipe --- gonna be a PITA to move out of the way. Maybe the procedures in https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/ will help. WG's don't need a reason to fail --- they just wear out. I agree that things previously worked on or around are the most likely causes of failure. But consider this --- when valves are loaded up with crud, some of that crud has been cycling thru the whole combustion process, including flowing out the exhaust and onto the WG. Miniscule for sure but it can add up. While the DP is loose, maybe check it too --- they can get fouled over time and poor engine maintenance (previous owner?) And then there's weather in "Far North Utah, in the Mtns..." temp changes overnite can cause crud to solidify --- I live in Northern NV, high desert and see this effect, tho probably not as severe as your weather.

Hopefully, you'll find the problem before you get to the WG. Best of luck ---

 

Completely forgot about this thread, my bad!
Took it to a foreign auto mechanic, did a smoke test, checked all intake tubes, etc, found nothing wrong. No air leaks. Spent a couple days on it. Fixed nothing but only charged me $50. Fair. It just substantiated that I've done everything right.
Then I took it to the expensive Mini-Authorized guy in town. Put it on his fancy computer, said ti was the pressure regulator (vac solenoid for the turbo). I explained it's brand new and I highly doubt it. He said he has to replace it to if it bad or not, because he has to follow the Mini's guide/protocols/ whatever. So he did, and it didn't fix it. So he dived into it again. Turns out all it was was a 'pin' on the connector. He went ahead and checked all the pins and connectors, re-flashed the comp and charged me a ton of $$$.