I desperately need this saga to end!! I have a mini clubman s 2009. I have been working sporadically to repair, one step at a time, for over a year now.This forum has proved invaluable for learning this car!! After a water pump and thermostat repair/replace, the timing chain shortly afterward gave way and broke, flinging bits of guard through the oil pan, up into crankshaft, etc. Fortunately, original visible hashmarks on piston cylinders indicated they were ok, whew! Rods were ok, but screws had sheared off. Valve stems were bent. Following the resultant trail of symptoms and error codes, the following have been replaced: new timing chain tensioner, chain, guides, sprockets bolts with timing kit, head gasket, head bolts, piston rings, spark plugs, valves, camshaft sensor, vanos solenoid, coolant temp sensor,vacuum pump (ah the eternal chicken and egg...did timing going out kill vacuum pump, or vacuum pump belt kill timing chain?), serpentine belt, belt pressure wheel, harmonic balancer, crank front seal, oil pump chain, crankshaft position sensor. We (experienced shade-tree mechanic sons are a huge help) carbon cleaned head as reassembled, fixed valve cover vaccum leak, cleaned maf sensor, and checked hpfp.
In the last month, it was running, with multiple misfires, and related codes (new gas and gas additive had been added fairly recently). Codes on all four cyclinders. Checked coils, one bad, so replaced all. Checked that spark plugs are sparking. That's when the hpfp was checked (rail pressure 750 or better), the balancer and seal replaced, and the cps discovered to be faulty (although it never threw a code) and replaced. After that change, it was back to cranking, but not starting. Threw a speed sensor code, which stayed gone after clearing codes. Suspiciously, I rechecked timing, discovered it was off, and redid with new bolts (following correct procedure, with right tools to the letter this time, last time I did reuse sprocket bolts). STILL, now it is cranking, not starting, again. I charged up battery, still no start. Took battery to be checked, tested a little low (from all the start attempts), but holding charge, still no, so tried to jump, still no. Trying to start it gas is on spark plugs, and puffs felt/heard out the back. Code reading and bench testing have been used to guide process consistently.
During entire saga, there have usually been codes for slight faults in the cas and footwell module. Months ago, there was one scan with no cas and no footwell codes, but that scan had dme codes 2B64 and 2982. Without jump, codes were: 2e1c, 4e84, cas A0B4, A0C1, AoC2, A10a, and the following frm listed as slight A8B1, A8B2, A8Af, A8Ae, A8Ae, A8Ac, 9c35, 96B6, E597, E599, E594. Currently, with jump, codes were all listed as slight: dmw p15e8 and 2f8f, only a10a for cas, and same frm codes. This led to a lot of research, and a thought that maybe the occasional window down in some rain, or messing with the hood latch (which delayed this a long time by failing all the ways it can), or battery ups and downs from not running, led to footwell module damage, BUT all the lights and windows have worked the whole time, and still do!
I'd try adding a kitchen sink, to go with the trend, but I don't think it will fit in the mini tight space!
If you have read this whole post, thanks for your patience. Even a consult with our local indi mini shop (dealers are far) has them stumped!! If anyone knows the solution, please help me out!

 

Wow! What a mess... If I may ask a question because there are some pitfalls when replacing the chain/timing. Did you use the four equal length sticks in the sparkplug holes/chambers to ensure you had all 4 at same height when setting cam sprockets? Also, are you seeing the Ex/In stamped on the cam shafts when you have all 4 cylinders height matched?
The codes make little sense, starter motor yes, but the rest of them don't lead me to suspect footwell module is gash. As you say, it is functioning as it should for lights, windows, etc. If it was fried then you would have odd behaviours.
How are the compression readings, am sure your mechs have checked that already?
Not sure why nobody else has chipped in yet.

 

not sure how this post slipped my daily ritual of checking new posts!!!

how many miles on the car?

as scudder44 mentioned about the compression test numbers. I think there are few areas to consider, the first is a key fob. if you have another one, test it out. my second guess is the JBE aka fuse box. check it for water damage. my next guess is grounding. check the ground on the motor mount and the little green wire on the valve cover.

lastly, where are you located?

 

 

 

 

Perform a compression check. I dropped an intake valve seat right 500 miles after a valve job. Compression in cylinder 1 was zero. Rule of thumb here, anytime you pull a MINI cylinder head, replace all the valve seats.

 

 

Yes. Valve seats are hardened metal inserts that are pressed into the soft aluminum cylinder head. when the valve is closed, the valve and the seat seal preventing air (or fuel depending on engjne) from entering or leaving the combustion chamber.

Seals form an oil proof fitting on the valve stem in order to keep oil out of the combustion chamber.

 

 

At first I didn't understand what you meant in the earlier post when you mentioned to install new valve seats upon changing up the valves. Now it made a lot of sense after your explanation. If I may, I'd like to add that there aren't any valve "seats" to install. Those you refer to are one of two parts: "valve stem seal" or "valve guide". The valve guide is a tubular insert you push into the head for the valve's stem to move up and down about. The valve stem seal is a hat-like part that you insert onto the valve guide and it's internal seal will protect against the seepage of intake air or exhaust fumes depending on which valve it's installed on. However, there is a valve seal job to be done when you change out for new valves, you're supposed to lube in some lapping compound on the back of the valves and lap it against the head to create a "seal".

 

Well, you are incorrect. The cylinder head is aluminum, the valve is not, if the valve relied on the base metal of the cylinder head to create a sealing surface, the life expectancy of your engine would be minutes. I understand your dilemma. with the valves closed, you can't see the valve seat, and you can't change them yourself; valve seats have to be replaced at a machine shop that has the tools and training to perform this task. In my case, one of the valve seats dropped out of the head and blocked the intake valve in the open position.

I've attached a picture so you have a better understanding.

 

I see, I didn't even know that rim existed until you show me the picture. Really appreciate the dedicated clarification. And I've just researched and watched a video of how they get that seat installed on youtube, very informing lesson here.

So, I'm on a MINI right now, N14 engine, just pulled the head not long ago to replace a burnt exhaust valve on cylinder 1. Based on what you mentioned before that everytime we pull the head to replace the valve seats. What are the ramifications of not doing it? I did run leak down test on all the valves with B-12 chem cleaner and they all held up except for the burnt valve. I did buy a new set of 16 valves ready to lap them in. I didn't know anything about the valve seats until you mentioned. But can't I just lap them in and call it a day? I hate going to the machine shops because of their elevated costs of servicing the Mini heads. What's the cost you incurred when you did your valve seat installation?

 

The reason I recommend replacing the valve seats is based on my experience with my MINI and internet research. I had a bad head gasket, and the cylinder head was warped. The first trip to the machine shop cost me $430, and that included milling the head to restore the contact surface, check of valves, valve guides, leak test, new valve stem seals, and spring tension check. Once I had it all back together, the car ran great until the 500 mile mark when one of the intake valve seats dropped.

The first shop didn't have the tooling to handle such small valve seats, so they referred me to another shop. The bill at that shop was $315.00 and included all new (deeper) seats, three new valves, pressure check, and milling the head another .006" to eliminate surface defects.

Check out this link:

http://www.engineprofessional.com/TB/TB113017-1.pdf

You may never have a problem with your valve seats, but after reading all the posts on the internet about this problem, and the amount of time and expense to pull the cylinder head, I wanted to reduce risk (as much as possible) any this happening to me again. In your case, it all depends on how lucky you feel. If you're doing it correctly, a head gasket and bolt set cost $230.00 every time the head comes off.

 

Great info! Thanks a bunch for it all. The technical info link you posted is for an N12. The Cooper S are all N14 and N18 engines. Not sure if the heads are made differently where the valve seats could have a better put-together. I think I'll try my luck this time and see what happens. But thanks for all your info, it's good learning and a good reference point to vantage back to if I run into further issues.

 

Yes the cylinder heads are different, but I have heard the same reports about dropped valve seats on N14 and N18 engines.

Check out this video: Notice the difference between the factory valve seat height and the aftermarket part.

 

Nice! Thanks for the great info and video.

 

Replaced jbe fuse box with working part purchased from ebay. Still cranking but not starting. No new codes (but won't be until I put all on different phone, saltwater bath didn't help mine!). Pulled valve cover (again), and verified timing is perfect. Only changes since the last time it DID start are a new crank sensor, and restoring timing to correct. Thinking to test we crank sensor. ANY OTHER ideas? In a perfect storm, main income is between contracts, and other cars's transmission replacement not complete, so I really want to avoid dealership visit....

 

That's a bummer...
my recent R56 issue turned out to be wiring harness. It would crank and not start. It kept throwing MAF sensor code which i replaced twice. I also tested my other R56 with MAF disconnected and it started. So after the engine harness replacement, the car started fine.