what a day, all i can say is *** this car. well today after a water temp gauge install i want on a test drive to see how the alta gauge works, less that 5 miles from my shop at a light,,,,the low oil pressure light comes on. Im like wtf so i quickly shut it off, pop the hood open to check oil etc everything OK, so i restart it hoping its nothing but a glitch but starts rattling so i quickly shut it off(less than 2 secs running) knowing something seriously wrong .


Get it towed to my shop, pull the valve cover to see whats up,

what i find is the timing chain slide broken completely and parts of aluminum and plastic all over the place near the crack sprocket.

Then i pull the oil pan and look at the oil pump chain to find it broken.

A piece of the slide (aluminum) got wedged between the sprocket and the chain in result snapping the chain. there was no chain noise, no rattles , I'm guessing it failed from fatigue and poor quality .


This car has 113xxx miles on it, and all this cause of a 18.63 dollar slide,


So all of you with higher mileage r56 might want to check the slide or replace it .


DID I SAY I HATE THIS F-ING CAR, SELL UR MINI WHEN THE WARRANIE Runs OUT.

 

Wow. Sorry to hear that.

Sell MINI when warranty runs out... Check.

 

Very sorry to hear about your engine fail. I hate cars that self-destruct too. I remember in the early years of the R53 we had some reason to believe our blowers would not last because of some failing prematurely. Fortunately, that has not proven to be true for most R53 owners. I suspect this won't be a common problem, but it still hurts regardless.

 

I sure love mine-80,000 plus hard miles, no issues

 

Check back in when you have 113,000 miles like the OP and you may have a valid point.

 

Unfortunately BMW had been getting too overly good at "cost engineering", which is what I call them re-designing parts to be "just good enough to work for the vehicles desgin life". At one point BMW parts were pretty bulit proof...but to save money and cut costs, parts are getting a really hard look...they look at cheaper materials, less materials, and cheaper productin technologies....sure the parts get cheaper, and sometimes lighter and more efficient, but there is very little wiggle room, both quality wise, and performance wise...this pushed harder break sooner, or simply wearout...
Thecfact such a critical compotent failed is disheartening...but once you go 100,000+ on ANY motor, anything could happen at anytime...the accumulated stresses and abuse gradually builds...and things will start to fail...

 

WELL-Chrisg--in case you missed this-see bulletin below. I personally know of 7- YES SEVEN - R56 owners local to me who are on thier 3rd YES THIRD round of timing chain tensioner recall repairs-all 7 within the first 48 000 miles of ownership. I apologise for my response sounding snippy-it did. I like the MINI product range a great deal and am looking to add a clubbie to my stable, but the timing chain issues on the Peugot engine are well known. I am truly sorry for the OPs troubles as well-it is a huge pita to live with, but MINI/BMW/Peugot have surely not done thier homework here.

[FONT=arial, helvetica, geneva][SIZE=3]SI [FONT=arial, helvetica, geneva][SIZE=3]M11 02 07
Engine[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=arial, helvetica, geneva][SIZE=3]October 2010
Technical Service[/SIZE][/FONT]
This Service Information bulletin supersedes SI M11 02 07 dated September 2010.

designates changes to this revision

[FONT=arial, helvetica, geneva][SIZE=2]SUBJECT[/SIZE][/FONT]
Rattle Noise from Engine


[FONT=arial, helvetica, geneva][SIZE=2]MODEL[/SIZE][/FONT]
R55 Cooper S with N14 engine

R56 Cooper S with N14 engine

From start of production up May 4th, 2009


[FONT=arial, helvetica, geneva][SIZE=2]SITUATION[/SIZE][/FONT]
The customer complains of a rattle noise from the engine during cold start-up - most often at the 1,600-1,800 rpm range, or in some instances (elongated timing chain) from the idle speed up to 2,000 rpm.

The rattle noise occurs more frequently when driving short distances.

The noise is more prevalent when the outside temperature is approximately 15° Celsius (59° Fahrenheit) or below.

[FONT=arial, helvetica, geneva][SIZE=2]CAUSE[/SIZE][/FONT]
The complaint can be caused by one or both of the following reasons:

• Insufficient tension of the timing chain
• The chain tensioner has not been bled sufficiently.

[FONT=arial, helvetica, geneva][SIZE=2]PROCEDURE[/SIZE][/FONT]
Work through the following procedure in order to eliminate other possible causes:

1. If a fault is stored in the DME memory (e.g., misfiring, VANOS, etc.), then work through all relevant test plans first.
2. A one-off short shrill will be heard within the first two seconds of engine operation. This is an inherent noise caused by the first regulation cycle of the engine oil pump. This is normal operation and no parts should be replaced.
3. If the noise appears to be coming from the valve cover or the vacuum pump area, refer to SI M11 02 08. To verify the source of the noise, disconnect the vacuum hose from the mechanical vacuum pump to eliminate the knocking noise. This is not a failure of the mechanical vacuum pump; do not replace any parts.
4. Ensure that the noise is not created or eliminated by depressing the clutch pedal, if equipped.
5. Disconnect the electrical connector from the tank ventilation valve. If the noise disappears when the connector is removed, reconnect to verify whether the noise returns. If the noise returns, replace the tank ventilation valve.

If all of the steps above are unsuccessful in eliminating the noise, please proceed to step 6.

1. Remove the right-hand wheel arch trim to access the crankshaft central bolt.
2. Disconnect the battery, remove ignition coils and spark plugs. Turn the engine by hand to move the flywheel to approximately 90° before TDC.

1. Install the locating pin (Special Tool 11 9 590) to lock the position of the engine.

1. Remove the chain tensioner and collect the residual oil with a shop towel.

1. Fit the chain tensioner (Special Tool 11 9 340) without the seal ring and with the lock nut loose. Pretension the chain tensioner with Special Tool 00 9 250 to 0.6 Nm. Finger-tighten the lock nut on Special Tool 11 9 340.

1. Remove the chain tensioner (Special Tool 11 9 340) from the engine, with the lock nut still tight. Measure the distance (A), as described in the illustration.

1. If distance (A) is less than 68mm (and the noise can be reproduced only between 1,600-1,800 rpm), then only replace the chain tensioner with P/N 11 31 7 607 551 (refer to parts list A), as per Repair Instruction REP 11 31 090 (Installing and removing/replacing chain tensioner piston N14).
2. If distance (A) is 68mm or greater (and the noise is reproducible both at 1,600-1,800 rpm range as well as at idle speed when cold), replace the following components in the list below (refer to parts list B). If you are uncertain regarding repair attempts already made, each chain tensioner part number is stamped on the outer sleeve. It must be removed from the engine in order to read the part number.
   • Chain tensioner-P/N 11 31 7 597 895 only!
     Note: P/N 11 31 7 607 551, Timing chain tensioner, should not be installed with a new timing chain.
   • Timing chain
   • Guide rail
   • Tensioner rail
   • Sliding rail
   • Sprocket on the crankshaft

Bearing bolts for the tensioner and guide rails

Refer to Repair Instruction REP 11 31 051 (Replacing timing chain N14).

Refer to the EPC for additional parts required, i.e., gaskets, seals, etc.

The incorrect crankshaft central bolt tightening torque is stated in the current release of ISTA. Disregard the torque specified in the current Repair Instructions when performing repairs that include replacing the crankshaft central bolt, P/N 11 21 7 585 184. The torque specification information will be corrected in the release of ISTA/D 2.21. The correct torque specification is described below.

11 21 Crankshaft and Bearings

1 AZ
Type
Thread
Tightening
Measure
Torsion
N14
M14 x 1.5 x 74
specification
Dampener (hub)
Replace screws
to crankshaft
(central bolt)
Lightly oil screws
and threads
Jointing torque
50 Nm
Torque angle
180°
Do not replace the hydraulic valve lifters (HVA), intake camshaft VANOS adjustment unit, or the exhaust camshaft sprocket for this type of noise. It is NOT necessary to obtain a Part Replacement Authorization (TeileClearing) for this specific issue. Refer to the Warranty section of this bulletin for more details.

1. After the repair is completed, reprogram the vehicle with the current ISTA/P.
   Manual transmission vehicles only:
   Use version (2.37.0 or higher) to the target integration level R056-10-03-501 or higher.
   Automatic transmission vehicles only:
   Do not conduct the reprogramming step on Cooper S/Clubman S vehicles equipped with the ASIN F21 automatic transmissions. The updated DME software with drivability improvements will be released in 2.40.
   Note that ISTA/P will automatically reprogram and code all programmable control modules that do not have the latest software.
   For information on programming and coding with ISTA/P, refer to Centernet / Aftersales Portal / Service / Workshop Technology / Vehicle Programming.

[FONT=arial, helvetica, geneva][SIZE=2]PARTS INFORMATION[/SIZE][/FONT]
Part Number
Description
Quantity
Parts List A
11 31 7 607 551
Chain tensioner
1
Parts List B
11 31 7 597 895
Chain tensioner
1
11 31 7 534 251
Chain tensioner seal ring
1
11 31 7 534 784
Timing chain
1
11 31 7 568 241
Guide rail
1
11 31 7 534 833
Tensioner rail
1
11 31 7 534 771
Bearing bolt
1
11 31 7 534 768
Bearing bolt
2
11 31 7 550 461
Bearing bolt gasket ring A14x21
1
11 31 7 546 697
Slide rail
1
11 21 7 534 654
Crankshaft sprocket
1
11 21 7 585 184
Bolt
1
Refer to the EPC for additional gaskets, seals and bolts, as described in Repair Instruction REP 11 31 051.

[FONT=arial, helvetica, geneva][SIZE=2]WARRANTY INFORMATION[/SIZE][/FONT]
Covered under the terms of the MINI New Vehicle Limited Warranty or the MINI NEXT Certified Pre-Owned Program.

Defect Code
11 33 04 39 00
Labor Operation
11 99 000
Procedure steps 1-5
Main Work
Labor Allowance
4 FRU
Or
Labor Operation
11 99 000
Procedure steps 1-11
Main Work
Labor Allowance
10 FRU
Labor Operation:
11 31 090*
Replacing piston for timing chain tensioner
+ Associated Work
Labor Allowance
5 FRU
or
Labor Operation:
11 31 051*
Replace timing chain (Parts list B)
+ Associated Work
Labor Allowance
Refer to KSD2
Plus

Labor Operation
Refer to KSD
Reprogram/recode vehicle
Labor Allowance
Refer to KSD2
Note: The following explanations will spell out the correct use of the work times.

Main Work:
Use this labor operation number when the only repair performed is the listed warranty repair.
OR
+Associated Work:
Use this labor operation number when other repairs or services are performed along with the listed warranty repair.
Under no circumstances should both labor operation numbers be claimed. Attempts to claim both times will result in an unnecessary delay in claim processing and payment.
In cases where ISTA requires the replacement of control modules or additional programming because certain control modules failed to program correctly, print out the Measures Plan and Final Report and attach these reports to the RO in the vehicle file. This additional work should be claimed under the defect code listed in this bulletin, using the labor operation and labor allowance from the KSD2.

Part replacement authorization is NOT required. Do NOT submit a TeileClearing PuMA case. A copy of the diagnostic report (short test) must be kept with the Repair Order (RO) and FASTA data must be transmitted. When submitting a warranty claim, please include "replaced per SI M11 02 07" in the comments section.

[SIZE=-2][ MINI, a division of BMW of North America, LLC
Copyright © 2010 BMW of North America, LLC ][/SIZE]

 

I do understand where you are coming from, I just thought your original statement was a bit harsh and vague. Having worked at a MINI dealership for over 2 years, I've seen just as many problematic low-mileage R50/53 as I have R56's. One example that comes to mind, my good friend owns an 06 R53 (supposedly one of the better years) and he was plagued with problems at least once every few months. I know it seems like the R56 model is very problematic, but I think a lot of it is just the luck of the draw.

And yes, I am familiar with that bulletin - mine has been replaced once after it made a noise twice. I haven't heard it since.

 

another thing i have seen a lot of with the local R56 owners is-they never pull thier dipsticks out-and-I have helped 2 of them when they were over 2 qts low on oil and the warning lights came on. These owners are dedicated to the 15k free oil changes at MINI and not much interested in more frequent changes. My R53 has used a qt every 4-5k since new, but I chage it at 5k so no bigie to me-my point is, do you think the timing chain issue on the R56s might be related to poor oil quality from too extended of a use period? My experience with motorcycle chain tensioners and chains makes me wonder about that. Japanese inline 4 chanis/sprockets/tensioners suffer when oil quality becomes poor.

 

You have a great point - I realize my post came as short/jerk-ish as well. It wasn't meant to be that way. It is sad that anyone believes they should follow the 15k (or more) oil change interval. That very well could be the issue with a lot of the failing R56's in your area.

 

Unless you care to back that with an oil analysis you have no proof. I would think that most of the failures would be due to people not checking their oil and keeping it topped off as well as cheap parts but blaming oil without a proper test is nothing more than a guess. I have had mine tested at 15 (R53) and it was fine so rather than guess, post up a few facts. Bottom line is that your failure was due to a part failing and at 113000 miles. I'd say you got pretty good milage before a heavy failure. Sadly this can happen.....

 

You are right, I do not have proof. I know a lot of folks are saying, and have shown, that the factory oil can last the long in regards to not breaking down, but can the filter really be doing it's job with that many miles on it? I know this 'argument' will go nowhere since everyone has their own opinions on when to change oil and no one can change that. I'll stick to checking my oil once every few weeks and changing it every 7500 miles. Cheap insurance, really. I do agree with you when you say that it's pretty good to have its first big failure at 113k.

 

While that's true that any motor with 100K plus miles on it can fail, it's not just those with that many miles on it, it's happening on the Mini's with way less than the 100K on the clock.

 

hmmm. maybe if the Germans made a freaking dipstick that didnt take an advanced engineering degree to decipher, maybe owners would have an easier time keeping their oil levels up to par. what is so hard about E____F?

(bought a Cravenspeed dipstick, and while easier and more logical to read, they made it too long, so it rubbed the paint off the underside of the bonnet and created one helluva rattle)

And as far as these Prince engines go, they are ticking time bombs at any mileage level. Once my warranty is up, the car is gonzo. R56 + no warranty = potential $$ pit.

 

Do you really think that the engineers would recommend a 15K oil change and not take the filter into consideration? You are entitled to change it as often as you like, however, if you are are going to say that the oil is the cause of the failure then you really should post up a little proof otherwise it is nothing more than a guess. I bet if you get the oil checked it would come back fine and your failure is likely due to a faulty piece rather than the oil.

FYI, I have been hearing this "cheap insurance" bit for a while now and I am not sure what that actually means.... If you have a part that is going to fail it won't matter if there is new oil in there or older oil, it is going to fail. Therefore, it isn't insurance, just a waste of money. The only way to determine your oil health is to get it checked.

 

+1

such a bummer

 

I read all of the above with great interest since I will be selling my 06 R53
next summer to get one of the first R59's. My R53 with 68k has been
totally trouble free with the exception of the common thermostat leak. I
can only pray that the R59 will be the same way. On a side note con-
cerning high mileage and motor troubles. I have a 1992 S-10 pickup with
395,000 miles on the clock, and the motor has never been apart, in fact it
still has it's original timing chain, the god's must be smiling on that one.

 

Sometimes you just get lucky! I had a Ford Escort that had 160K on it when I sold it. Parts were falling off all over the place but the dang thing ran great. I think it finally hit 300K before the other owner put it out to die....