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Oil cooler R&R - few questions.

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Old Jul 30, 2018 | 11:06 AM
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Oil cooler R&R - few questions.

My 2004 6-spd MCS w/ 155K is currently up on blocks, in service mode, pending replacement of passenger side axle (which has been removed) and oil pan gasket (which is clearly leaking.) Although my oil cooler does not appear to be leaking much oil and no coolant, I understand that now would be the time to change the gaskets and seals. Here is the sequence of steps as I understand it, with a few questions along the way:

1. Drain oil, remove oil filter. (Unfortunately I will not be able to warm the engine up to operating temperature beforehand.)
2. Remove lower engine mount. (Makes access easier now, and in any event will need to remove it when changing the oil pan gasket.)
3. Separate the oil cooler from the oil filter housing. Question: How much coolant will come out? (I don't really want to drain the coolant if I don't have to.)
4. Question: Is it necessary to remove the flexible coolant lines from the oil cooler? (I hope not.)
5. Disconnect oil pressure sensor wire.
6. Remove oil filter housing from engine block.
7. Replace gasket between oil filter housing and engine block.
8. Reattach oil filter housing to engine block.
9. Replace two o-rings between oil filter housing and oil cooler.
10. Reattach oil cooler to oil filter housing.

Am I missing anything? For those of you who have 'been there done that' your help would be appreciated.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2018 | 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by JAB 67
Here is the sequence of steps as I understand it, with a few questions along the way:
1. Drain oil, remove oil filter.
Yes

2. Remove lower engine mount.
Yes

3. Separate the oil cooler from the oil filter housing. Yes Question: How much coolant will come out?
Not much; maybe a cup +/-

4. Question: Is it necessary to remove the flexible coolant lines from the oil cooler?
No, but it's not very hard to remove the clamps, and you'll be better able to manipulate and clean the oil cooler when removed. I'm guessing it'll be fairly dirty, covered in oil & dirt. I always use these sort of occasions to really clean-up the engine, so if or when it leaks down the road, you'll know exactly where it's coming from.

5. Disconnect oil pressure sensor wire.
Yes

6. Remove oil filter housing from engine block.
Yes, but you'll also need to remove the upper heat shield (over the header) in order to remove the 10mm bolt that connects the lower heat shield to the oil filter housing.

7. Replace gasket between oil filter housing and engine block.
Yes

8. Reattach oil filter housing to engine block.
Yes, make sure to use correct torque values and not overtighten. 18 ft./lbs.

9. Replace two o-rings between oil filter housing and oil cooler.
Yes

10. Reattach oil cooler to oil filter housing.
Yes, make sure to use correct torque values and not overtighten. 9 ft./lbs.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2018 | 04:05 PM
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Thanks! Regarding # 6, once that 10 mm bolt is removed can the heat shield itself be moved to permit greater access to some of the bolts on the housing? I have already removed the top heat shield.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2018 | 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by JAB 67
Thanks! Regarding # 6, once that 10 mm bolt is removed can the heat shield itself be moved to permit greater access to some of the bolts on the housing? I have already removed the top heat shield.
Yes, the right (driver's) side of the heat shield has a rubber grommet that interfaces with a short stud that comes off the starter - just above the starter motor. Green arrows show the position of where the 10mm bolt connects to filter housing, and the stud for other end of heat shield.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2018 | 04:25 PM
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Thanks again!
 
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Old Jul 31, 2018 | 06:13 AM
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I have removed the 10 mm bolt that holds the heat shield to the oil filter housing, I have unclipped the wire from the heat shield on the driver's side, and I have removed the oil filter housing cap and oil filter. However, I am unable to maneuver the heat shield up and out from behind the engine. Can that be done? If so, what is the secret? Thanks.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2018 | 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by JAB 67
...I am unable to maneuver the heat shield up and out from behind the engine. Can that be done? If so, what is the secret?
You don't need to remove it. Just shift it around as needed to get to the bolts on the housing. You do need to slide it towards the passenger side in order to get the grommet off the stud on the starter. From there, you'll be able to move it enough to get to the housing bolts. You have the added advantage of getting to it from underneath.

Since you're fiddling around near the starter, might also be a good idea to disconnect the battery.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2018 | 07:22 AM
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Thanks; have already d/c the battery.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2018 | 03:21 PM
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I finally removed the oil filter housing and oil cooler. In doing so I disassembled it into its three parts - housing, cap, and cooler. When it comes time to reinstall, can I first reassemble these three parts, then install as a single unit? Car is up on blocks, wheel liner removed, and passenger side axle out pending replacement. Thanks.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2018 | 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by JAB 67
When it comes time to reinstall, can I first reassemble these three parts, then install as a single unit? Car is up on blocks, wheel liner removed, and passenger side axle out pending replacement.
Since you have the axle removed, do a quick trial fit by temporarily fixing the cooler to the housing (sans cap) and see if it can go straight up from the bottom.

If so, it’ll be much easier to fit the cooler with rings and properly torque while out of the engine bay, then reinstall as a unit, connecting the coolant hoses once attached. Put on the cap and filter once everything is set.

I also use these opportunities (engine parts removed) to clean everything up for ease of keeping an eye on things going forward.
 

Last edited by AoxoMoxoA; Aug 8, 2018 at 04:54 PM.
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