Anyone know why my fans turn back on after I turn off the car?
#1
#2
Your resistor for your low speed fan is probably shot, thus why your high speed fan is turning on after the car is off in order to cool it down.
Reference the later pages in this thread for the fix. Its relatively simple and <$10. https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-solution.html
Reference the later pages in this thread for the fix. Its relatively simple and <$10. https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-solution.html
#4
Your resistor for your low speed fan is probably shot, thus why your high speed fan is turning on after the car is off in order to cool it down.
Reference the later pages in this thread for the fix. Its relatively simple and <$10. https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-solution.html
Reference the later pages in this thread for the fix. Its relatively simple and <$10. https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-solution.html
#5
^^ This. Next time it happens, pop your hood, open the fuse compartment, and give the fan relay a tap. Should turn off. If it does, grab a new relay from your friendly local auto parts store!
As far as diagnosing potential radiator fan resistor issues, here's a good quote from back in the day (bottom section explains how to enable actual coolant temp inside your speedo!)
As far as diagnosing potential radiator fan resistor issues, here's a good quote from back in the day (bottom section explains how to enable actual coolant temp inside your speedo!)
1) Turn off the car if your fan is still running disconnect the battery.
2) Open the fan connector (on my case Cooper 2006 S) it is only one connector for fan 1st stage and second.
3) Reconnect the battery, the fan should not be running
4) Now with a voltimeter measure on the fan connector (side that connects to fuse box)
if on either 1st and 2nd stage pins you have 12 volts
5) If so the relays must be operated. To confirm remove the relay fan 1st and 2nd stage.
6) Now on the fan connector you should NOT have voltage.
7) If there is voltage you must have a short in the cable.
Note: The Control Module activates the FAN based on temperature readinds of the car.
If CM is operating the FAN even with the car not running it is possible because there is
situation where the car is leaking coolant when you stop the cast iron block is still heating
up and the CM keeps the FAN running until the temperature drops.
In your case (if no short circuit somewhere) my guess is that in some how the CM is thinking the temperature
is above the threshold and keeps the FAN running regardless.
======================================
Regarding the weird behavior with low voltage.
A health battery when you start the car goes to a 9-10V due the load imposed by the start motor.
If a battery is not healthy and has a weak charge it can fluctuate more, on this case causing oscilation
in voltage and the effect can put electronics in the threshold almost cutting off where you can observe weird
behavior.
I had a drain of current (almost a short circuit ) in the clutch of my AC a while back, everytime I was
turn the AC on lights on the dashboard were coming with no reason.
========================================
Do you know how to use the On Board diagnosis on your Mini?
You could use that to see how the CM is seeing the coolant temperature in your MINI.
When you enter the test MODE you can check stuff like this, but you are going to be insterested on
TEST 9.0 and TEST 7.0
1.0 Chassis number
1.1 Kilometer count
1.2 Parts number
1.3 Coding-, Diagnostic- and Bus-index
1.4 Production Date (Calender week/year)
1.5 Hard- and Software status
1.6 Injectorstatus, Cylinder count, Engine factor.
2.0 Combisystem Test
3.0 Service intervall counter
4.0 Actual fuel consumption in l/100km. eg.0154 = 15,4 liters/100kms.
4.1 Consumption in liters/100kms.
5.0 Distance consumption in l/100kms.
5.1 Actual rest distance with available fuel in Kms.
6.0 Actual amount of fuel in tank. eg. 123321 =12,3liters left 32,1 liters right
6.1 Total amount of fuel in tank.
6.2 Show value of Fuel guage. 1= both senders OK, 2= sender failure, 3=ti signal unplausible (no reading)
7.0 Actual coolant temp.
7.1 Actual outside temp.
7.2 Actual engine revs.
7.3 Actual speed
8.0 Hexadecimal readings of menu 7.0 to 7.3
9.0 Actual on board voltage (Battery)
10.0 Land codes
11.0 Unit codes
12.0 No funktion
13.0 Gong test
14.0 - 14.4 On board diagnostic codes. eg 000000 = no failures
15.0 - 18.0 No funktion
19.0 On/Off for Test menu.
20.0 Correction factor for Fuel consumption
Formula for correction:
Shown consumption x 1000 / user defined consumption
Push the trip reset button to begin the correction. Numbers count up from 0-9, when correct number shows push trip reset button.
20.1 Sets 10ths. for consumption factor
20.2 Sets 100ths. and 1000ths. for consumption factor
20.3 Saves the new consumption factor and shows new value
21.0 Software reset. (Same as disconnecting battery)
2) Open the fan connector (on my case Cooper 2006 S) it is only one connector for fan 1st stage and second.
3) Reconnect the battery, the fan should not be running
4) Now with a voltimeter measure on the fan connector (side that connects to fuse box)
if on either 1st and 2nd stage pins you have 12 volts
5) If so the relays must be operated. To confirm remove the relay fan 1st and 2nd stage.
6) Now on the fan connector you should NOT have voltage.
7) If there is voltage you must have a short in the cable.
Note: The Control Module activates the FAN based on temperature readinds of the car.
If CM is operating the FAN even with the car not running it is possible because there is
situation where the car is leaking coolant when you stop the cast iron block is still heating
up and the CM keeps the FAN running until the temperature drops.
In your case (if no short circuit somewhere) my guess is that in some how the CM is thinking the temperature
is above the threshold and keeps the FAN running regardless.
======================================
Regarding the weird behavior with low voltage.
A health battery when you start the car goes to a 9-10V due the load imposed by the start motor.
If a battery is not healthy and has a weak charge it can fluctuate more, on this case causing oscilation
in voltage and the effect can put electronics in the threshold almost cutting off where you can observe weird
behavior.
I had a drain of current (almost a short circuit ) in the clutch of my AC a while back, everytime I was
turn the AC on lights on the dashboard were coming with no reason.
========================================
Do you know how to use the On Board diagnosis on your Mini?
You could use that to see how the CM is seeing the coolant temperature in your MINI.
When you enter the test MODE you can check stuff like this, but you are going to be insterested on
TEST 9.0 and TEST 7.0
1.0 Chassis number
1.1 Kilometer count
1.2 Parts number
1.3 Coding-, Diagnostic- and Bus-index
1.4 Production Date (Calender week/year)
1.5 Hard- and Software status
1.6 Injectorstatus, Cylinder count, Engine factor.
2.0 Combisystem Test
3.0 Service intervall counter
4.0 Actual fuel consumption in l/100km. eg.0154 = 15,4 liters/100kms.
4.1 Consumption in liters/100kms.
5.0 Distance consumption in l/100kms.
5.1 Actual rest distance with available fuel in Kms.
6.0 Actual amount of fuel in tank. eg. 123321 =12,3liters left 32,1 liters right
6.1 Total amount of fuel in tank.
6.2 Show value of Fuel guage. 1= both senders OK, 2= sender failure, 3=ti signal unplausible (no reading)
7.0 Actual coolant temp.
7.1 Actual outside temp.
7.2 Actual engine revs.
7.3 Actual speed
8.0 Hexadecimal readings of menu 7.0 to 7.3
9.0 Actual on board voltage (Battery)
10.0 Land codes
11.0 Unit codes
12.0 No funktion
13.0 Gong test
14.0 - 14.4 On board diagnostic codes. eg 000000 = no failures
15.0 - 18.0 No funktion
19.0 On/Off for Test menu.
20.0 Correction factor for Fuel consumption
Formula for correction:
Shown consumption x 1000 / user defined consumption
Push the trip reset button to begin the correction. Numbers count up from 0-9, when correct number shows push trip reset button.
20.1 Sets 10ths. for consumption factor
20.2 Sets 100ths. and 1000ths. for consumption factor
20.3 Saves the new consumption factor and shows new value
21.0 Software reset. (Same as disconnecting battery)
#6
#7
Please advise of the page number, I like to keep records of certain problems/issues.
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#8
Hot days and track days it will kick on. On cold days with non track times its a sticky relay or low coolant.
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#9
It can also be a symptom of low coolant. Once it cools down, check your level and your overflow tank for leaks. It was happening on my buddy's car and his tank was leaking. Replaced the tank and topped up the coolant, and the fan issue went away.
The plastic overflow tanks are relatively inexpensive and not hard to replace. If I were doing it over, I would have sprung for an aluminum one rather than replacing the plastic with plastic. I know it will fail again eventually, and NEXT time I'm paying for the more durable part!
Duane
The plastic overflow tanks are relatively inexpensive and not hard to replace. If I were doing it over, I would have sprung for an aluminum one rather than replacing the plastic with plastic. I know it will fail again eventually, and NEXT time I'm paying for the more durable part!
Duane