For my R56 2009 Mini Cooper S with 95,000 miles:

The CEL is on and I had the code scanned and it is P0741: "torque converter clutch performance or stuck open". I did some reading on the torque converter clutch, and I am holding out hope the issue is related to either the wiring or the solenoid.

But I cannot locate the solenoid nor can I find a diagram or photo online. Can someone describe where it is or point me to a picture or diagram so I can begin to troubleshoot it and its wiring?

If anyone has any other advice about tracking down and addressing the cause of a P0741 error, I would love to hear it!

Thank you!

 

Any Updates on your situation. I have a similar issue. I flushed the transmission twice and the filter replaced once. in the first time, there was a lot of dirt in the filter. I am not sure if it is due to that. the car was flooded and has about 3500 original miles on it.

 

Not yet. Being checked out by the mechanic next week.

 

Ok pkease keep us updated...

 

Any words from the mechanic?

 

Sorry for the late response. I had to cancel the mechanic appointment and in the mean time I also developed rough shifts into 2nd and 3rd and some flare shifts.

I have made some progress though. I finally found documentation on the transmission including solenoid location. The transmission in this vehicle is the Aisin 6 speed automatic, TF60SN, known in BMW land as 6F21WA. This transmission is also used in a variety of Audi and Volkswagen vehicles.

Thorough documentation, including diagnostic strategies, tear down, and rebuild is available here: http://vwts.ru/vw_doc2/trans/09g/atsg_09g_09m_eng.pdf.

Based on my reading, I have concluded there is either a problem with my wiring harness or with the solenoids in the transmission. I inspected the wiring harness as best I could and cleaned the wiring harness connections leading to the transmission. This did not change anything. I cannot find any documentation on how to test the continuity of the wiring harness between the ECU and the transmission, and I do not have a pinout diagram that explains which pins at the ECU are supposed to go to the transmission.

I have sent a message to RevMax inquiring if they know of any further testing I can do of the electronics. If not, I am going to replace the valve body of the transmission (which looks more straightforward than most of my repair jobs on this vehicle--the valve body can be easily removed from underneath the vehicle).

I could do just the suspect solenoids, but there are so many channels and parts in the valve body subject to wear and clogging, I think I will just do the whole thing while I am at it. The valve body is $650. According to the internet, dealerships will not replace just solenoids or valve bodies but will insist on replacing the whole transmission. But according to the very same interent, many people have had these symptoms fixed with valve body replacement.

Stay tuned!

 

Ok, I replaced the valve body with a rebuilt one from revmax. Acceleration issues have been fixed. However, now downshift into 2nd extremely hard. And CEL still on (haven't checked the code yet to see if it the same one).

So maybe two steps forward and one back?

I haven't brought it in to have the adaptations cleared yet, so maybe that will help.

 

Brought the mini to local import shop and they reset the transmission adaptations.

And Voila...drives perfectly now!

They reset CEL and no longer getting any errors from the transmission. Yeah!

So to summarize:

1. Was getting torque converter solenoid error code (P0741) as well as hard shifts 1-2 and 2-3 and flare shifts 2-3.

2. Figured out solenoids are inside the transmission but easily accessible from underneath the vehicle by remove transmission oil pan. Helpful documentation:

AISIN transmission details:
http://vwts.ru/vw_doc2/trans/09g/atsg_09g_09m_eng.pdf

3. Replaced valve body with rebuilt valve body (including solenoids) from RevMax. Replaced ATF filter and oil pan gasket as well. My problems might have been solved with just new solenoids, but there are so many parts in the valve body that can wear and malfunction that I figured it was worth the extra couple hundred bucks to replace the whole kit and kaboodle and not have to do the job over

Details on valve body replacement including bolt order and bolt torque values:
https://wiki.bentleypublishers.com/p...geId=115179570

Detailed instructions on valve body replacement with lots of pictures:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-at-80k-9.html

(Note: Some sources suggest lowering the subframe to get at the one inaccessible torx screw holding on the oil pan. I find it simpler to remove passenger side motor mount nut and lower motor mount bolt as mentioned in above post and then jack up the engine a couple of inches as described in post linked above.)

4. I refilled with Toyota T-IV fluid which is purportedly the equivalent to MINI ATF but much less expensive. Filling from the top is a royal pain and always makes a mess, so I got an adapter and pump fill from the bottom through the drain hole...best $89 I ever spent. I pumped in 5 quarts, drove briefly, and then with the engine still running let the excess drain back out with the car level (the stand pipe in the drain hole lets the fluid drain down to the right level). When the fluid slowed down noticeably to a trickle I replaced the drain plug. Fluid should be at 95-113 degrees F to be at correct viscosity to ensure correct level. In the past I have measured with a thermometer, but this time I just felt the oil pan--if it is hot but I can still keep my hand on it, I figure it is close enough.

5. With new valve body, upshifting problems were fixed (and, it turned out, torque converter solenoid problem was fixed). But downshifts were super hard. In just a few miles, this actually improved except for 3-2 downshift which still felt like I ran over a brick every time I slowed down to stop. I imagined the engine tearing off the engine mounts every time I came to a stop light.

6. Had transmission adaptations reset by local garage and errors cleared. No transmission errors returned, shifting is now pretty much perfect.

I am out about $650 for the rebuilt valve body, $90 for the ATF adapter and pump, $35 for the T-IV transmission fluid, and $48 to have the shop reset the adaptations. A fair chunk of change, but way cheaper than a new transmission!

 

Just a quick follow up. Two months later, the transmission is still doing great. It seems to have re-adapted well, and all shifts are smooth up and down, except that once in a while when it is really cold, 2-3 upshift is still just a little harsh.

Thanks again to the folks at revmax (https://revmaxconverters.com/) for the rebuilt valve body and the folks at German Auto Service in Grand Rapids (http://www.germanautoltd.com) for clearing the old adaptations after I replaced the valve body.

 

Thank you for following up and the links you provided...Did Revmax tell you what was the problem with the valve body? did they find anything?