Hi, I just bought a 2009 mini cooper with 42k miles and wanted to get the transmission fluid changed soon. Apparently the drain plug is easy to find, but the fill plug is somewhere underneath the air cleaner. Can someone post a pic of the location? A user previously posted a pic, but it is no longer available. thanks.

 

Any updates on this? I am interested in the same thing... Just curious where the plugs are and what fluids everyone is using.

Thanks for the info.

 

Mine now has ~81K miles on my 2008 Clubman S. I had a friend help me change the automatic transmission fluid at ~62K miles, unfortunately, I do not have pictures. It is a long process as Mini considers it a "lifetime" fluid and doesn't make changing it easy. Once the front of the car is on jack stands the transmissions drain plug is accessable. Inside the transmission, beneath the drain plug is a plastic stand pipe that, when removed, this allows ~2 quarts of fluid to drain. As you drain the fluid you must collect it carefully as you need to measure what has been removed. Once the stand pipe and drain plug have been replaced, the car is taken off the jack stands, the transmissions fill port, on top of the transmission, is opened and a vinyl hose is placed inside the fill port. A funnel is attached to the other end if this line and fluid of equal measure to that removed is replaced. Then the fill port is then replaced and the car is again put on its front jack stands and the car is started and carefully, the transmission is put into drive the the car is tested through all gears.

This entire is done 3 or 4 times as there is ~8 quarts of transmission fluid (don't quote me on the amount;check the specs) and in doing so you can archive a 96-97% fluid change. Note, Mini/BMW fluid is grossly over priced (~$35/qt). If you have a 2005-present, Aisin-designed transmission (i.e., non CVT) that is manufactured in Japan, you need a type T-IV transmission fluid. Toyota sells the same fluid for ~$7/qt. It is also good to place the quart bottles of transmission fluid in a sink of hot hotter to make the fluid easier to pour. I noticed after my fluid swap that the car shifted smoother than it had. There is no transmission filter to replace, to my knowledge.

A note: This was my experience with the help of a friend who is a very knowledgable Mini owner who has done this a number of times on his 2005 R53. The dealer won't touch this as it is "lifetime" fluid. Please take this advice at your own risk as I cannot take any responsibility for your results. And no, I am not a lawyer.

 

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...35-post40.html

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...76-post53.html

No fill plug necessary. This tranny is designed to be filled from drain plug! Follow the PDF referenced on the VW site.

As described late in this thread, no dealing with the pain-in-the-you-know-what fill plug is necessary. Just order the fill adapter, pick up a fluid pump, and pump the fluid up into the transmission after you reinstall the stand pipe. Super easy, just a bit messy. I used the Toyota fluid, too. The dealer wanted $500 to do one change. Cost me $45 with the fill adapter and about two total hours with the jacking, cleaning.

 

Does anybody know how to tell when you have added the correct amount of transmission fluid to a 2008 mini s conv.

 

Get the VW fill adapter. Get a new plastic standpipe from the dealer.
Get the orange fluid transfer pump. The one from Advance Auto looks the same
as the harbor freight one but they are made to different specs (have had both).
Once you get the method down you don't even need to jack the car up.
I used the drain change drain change drain change drain change method. I think
I did it four times. Meaning a partial drain and fill each time. I just wasn't up
for pulling the pan that day. I drove about 500 miles between each change.
Honestly you could probably just drive down the street and back and it would
be mixed up enough.
Change the plastic standpipe! All that heat and sitting in chemicals makes it
very fragile. You'll be sad when it snaps off.

To get the correct amount of fluid is easy. Fill up cold. Tape your temperature
probe to the transmission pan. I forget the temperature needed. You can get
a temperature probe on a $25 volt meter. When it gets warmed up undo the bolt
there will be an initial surge of fluid. Put the bolt back in when it starts to trickle.
Do not wait for it to stop the trickle. It will trickle all night several quarts as the
(torque converter?) internal parts drain slowly.

Once you get your moves down it is easier than changing the oil.

 

I have a 2009 Mini Cooper Clubman S and in changing the oil, accidentally drain the transmission fluid. Oops! I'm not sure how to add more, Can someone offer advice?

1. I read some forums that say all the fluid does not drain out at once? Is this true?
2. Transmission is acting funny, hard shifting occasionally.
3. Dealership tells me it will cost 650.00 to replace the fluid, and the shop foreman drove and said it is ok to drive. A foreign car mechanic said more than likely my transmission is toast.

I don't want to believe its toast and I don't think it should cost 650.00 to replace the fluid.

 

I've done this several times on VWs in the past years - you really do want to have this tool set - http://www.ebay.com/itm/MityVac-MV64...-/281183496302 The funnel/tube method is ok too. I prefer the VW tool, its much faster.

$650 for fluid is absurd. Just make sure you get the correct fluid, don't use off the shelf junk from the FLAPS.

 

When you accidently drained some fluid out have you put any back in? Are you driving it with low fluid now?

 

That tool set is half the cost of a dealership fluid change! Fine if you are doing a small fleet of cars, but not real cost effective if you have only one MINI to work on.

 

Never said it was cost effective. But it is far faster.

 

IMO the pump is well worth the cost! The time it saves by far out weighs the price for me..not to mention its still cheaper then having the dealership do it...or at least a bit cheaper..but it will pay for itself!

 

Good advice on this thread. I would add - before you begin make sure you can access and loosen the top fill plug. Have the right funnels and tubing.
I found it helpful to 1. Have the right tools and 2. Remove the oil filter cover for wrench clearance.
Job is a piece of cake.
I used Mobil 3309 and will change again in 20k miles.

 

i will make a video of this change

 

I just did a change out of mine with the VW fill tool from the drain port. Was SUPER easy. Just drained the fluid into a clear container, marked the level with a piece of tape. Poured the old fluid out, wiped it out, put the new fluid in up to the mark, the pumped it right back in. When you are taking the tool off, just have the drain plug right then to get it started. I lost MAYBE a teaspoon (probably less) when I swapped the drain plug in. Best 45 bucks for a tool I've spent in a LONG TIME!

 

So how much fluid did you replace?

Aisin tranny is advertised as having 6.3 Qt dry and 4.8 Qt refill capacity.

a

 

I got 3.5qt out. Going to do another drain today and a final one later this week. The fluid that came out was close to black.

 

I got 3 qt. out today.
Also for my surprise differential using transmission oil. Weird!!! Because usually it is the same with manual transmission oil.

 

OK, I got full 4 quarts out the other week.
I dropped the pan to replace the filter, replaced the pan gasket while at it. Once you unbolt the filter, a bunch more old fluid will come out.

Definitely helps to have a super large pan to catch all the fluid that you want to measure to know how much to put back in.

Old 56K mile fluid was dark, but not black.
The car does shift smoother now, especially noticeable during kick-downs.

a

 

How did you drop the pan? The subframe is blocking the torque bolt. I don't get why they use 10 mm bolts all the way around and then a single torque bolt where the susbframe blocks it. Either have to lower subframe or raise engine to access torque bolts. How did you do it?

 

How do you get that last star bolt out, it's right under that subframe. I read that someone had to jack the engine so it can move a bit just in enough to get to that bolt?

OR remove that subframe?

There's got to be another method. Both of these sounds awful when you just need to remove a bolt to drop the pan.

Anyone??

 

I lowered, but did not remove, the subframe. If you can find a way to raise the engine instead it would be less work. You only need to raise the engine or lower subframe about an inch or so.

 

Thank You for letting us know. Can you help me on how do go about raising the engine by a inch or two.. this seems daunting.

There's mount screws and something like a hose to disconnect. Do you have some sort of help instructions with pictures? Please?

 

I don't have any pictures. Sorry. You might be able to find instructions in another thread. Or try Google. Your gonna have to probably put it in service mode to access the motor mounts on passenger side. You can see how to put it in service mode on YouTube.

 

Need to get the VW drain plug adapter and the syringe to pump the fluid back in. All parts needed are 5 qts of ATF, filter and pan gasket. Got the kit from ECS tuning for less than 300 dlls. I recommend to have a scanning tool ready or have somebody that does as some CEL's will need to be cleared and the transmission adaptation needs to be reset. You need to get the oil pan off to get this done right. Do not drain the 2 qts and refill. This is not the best method. You need to inspect the 2 magnets inside the oil pan to make sure your transmission is healthy and the filter needs to get replaced. Now to the quick and easy procedure.
- Jack up the car and make sure is leveled on 4 jack stands if possible. We'll get to that. Better if you have a lift.
- Need to drill the brace underneath the bolt that is hard to get to. You'll see what I'm talking about when you get underneath. Get a guide drill bit first then a drill bit slightly bigger that the 10mm to fit it though the brace and get to this bolt. Spray paint or grease exposed metal.
- Remove drain plug and drain approx. 2 qts of oil that sits above the stand pipe inside the oil pan as mentioned in posts above. Collect drained oil and put away so it's ready for the remaining 3 qts of oil.
- Remove the 10 (I think 10mm that hold the oil pan) and carefully remove the oil pan. The 3 qts will come down with it. Make sure you have a wide enough recipient to get all the oil.
- Remove the 3 bolts that hold the filter. More oil will come down.
- If you can, tilt the car with a hydraulic jack to get most of the fluid from the torque converter. I don't think this will be necessary but I got it done. Be careful not to get the car off the passenger stand when you do this. I lifted from the driver side and pulled the jack stand and then lowered the car until fluid stopped coming out.
- Raise the car again and put the jack stands back in.
- Inspect magnets in oil pan, wipe oil pan clean and replace gasket.
- Reinstall new filter with the 3 bolts.
- Reinstall oil pan with new gasket with the VW drain plug fill adapter.
- Hook up the syringe and pump 3 qts into the oil pan.
- Ensure car is level on jack stands. This is important because you'll need to start the car and put the car in drive and run it through the gears. At this time traction control will flicker and the ABS light will come on and the car will hesitate a bit. It's ok, you'll clear the check engine light and ABS light with the scan tool at a later time. Leave the car in drive and finish pumping in the last qts of fluid. It is important the car be running for this because this keeps the transmission full and final level will be set after you pump the last of the fluid you should drain some after you remove the drain/fill plug. Meaning, you'll fill abouve the stand pipe inside the oil pan with the car running in Drive and that little oil over the stand pipe will drain to the correct level. At this time, remove the VW drain/fill plug adapter and some oil will come out into the collection recipient and replace drain plug.
- Turn car off and take the car off jack stands. Need scan tool to reset CEL's and reset transmission adaptation.
For me the car drives so much better, like new. Hope this helps. For me it was a simple job anyone can do. And you can save yourself some 500dlls and avoid the dealership which will tell you not to change the fluid and filter and keep driving it like that 'till the wheels fall off. LOL. Enjoy