Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

r53 wont start without bump or jump please help

Old Oct 17, 2012 | 05:12 PM
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r53 wont start without bump or jump please help

Hello fellew miniacs,
I bought my lovely r53 in march of 12 with 75371 on the od.
Had some minor upset such as currently no power steering.
I replaced the coolant tank, radiator, heater core, alternator and battery.
She now currently will not start on her own without a jumpstart or bump.
Any ideas as to why she won't start on her own? Turn the key and you can hear the starter engage the firing pin but no crank. Unless its being jumped. What might be the cause of such an issue. I also think the by pass is on its way out. I'm all stock BTW.
Please help. Thanks
 
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 05:18 PM
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Weak battery. I'd start there
 
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 07:04 PM
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Even thou I just replaced it less than a month ago??? Thank you for a quick response.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by bsadd
Even thou I just replaced it less than a month ago??? Thank you for a quick response.
if the new alternator is not functioning properly, yes the new battery could be weak

scott
 
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 07:39 PM
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I'll have to get some test as both parts are under warrenty.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 07:56 PM
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Might I mention the headlights also flash. Possibly immobilizer?
 
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 10:15 AM
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If you have access to a voltmeter, you can test the battery's or alternator's voltage and possibly rule either out.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 10:41 AM
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Since you have no powe steering....i bet the new alternator is bad....the alternator must be outputting voltage for the ps pump to run....it shuts off when the alternator fails by desgin to extend you driving time on the battery.
Other issue mght be the battery explosive battery dissconect (located in the box in the trunk next to the battery)....it may have gotten wet, and be filled with corrosion, limiting the power to stsrt the car....same goes for the battery cables (both + ones or the grounds)....could be chafes/corroded.
Do you have a person who knows anything about mini's working on the car?
 
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by PelicanParts.com
If you have access to a voltmeter, you can test the battery's or alternator's voltage and possibly rule either out.
I have access to a voltmeter I will test when I get home
 
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by ZippyNH
Since you have no powe steering....i bet the new alternator is bad....the alternator must be outputting voltage for the ps pump to run....it shuts off when the alternator fails by desgin to extend you driving time on the battery.
Other issue mght be the battery explosive battery dissconect (located in the box in the trunk next to the battery)....it may have gotten wet, and be filled with corrosion, limiting the power to stsrt the car....same goes for the battery cables (both + ones or the grounds)....could be chafes/corroded.
Do you have a person who knows anything about mini's working on the car?
My power steering went out about two months before my alternator.
As for the box in the boot I will check into aswell. Nope just me. I do know cars somewhat so don't be shy. Ps we own 2 r53's 1 r52 and 1 r50
 
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 06:37 PM
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Check the ground strap in the engine compartment. Be sure it's making a good connection and that it's not corroded at either end.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 09:53 AM
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If the battery and grounds checks out ok, you might want to also check the battery safety terminal. It's cuts off the starter and alternator circuit when activated but retains power to the rest of the car. I think it can only be replaced one activated but should only be activated in a crash.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by bsadd
I have access to a voltmeter I will test when I get home
Any good?
 
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by RayH
If the battery and grounds checks out ok, you might want to also check the battery safety terminal. It's cuts off the starter and alternator circuit when activated but retains power to the rest of the car. I think it can only be replaced one activated but should only be activated in a crash.
That is what is in the box located next to the battery in the trunk...
It is a safety feature...
There are are 2 + battery cables...one to the regular fuse panel, and one, directly to the starter....unfused. since this cable is unfused, in an accident if it was dammaged, a fire could start....so a squib (a small explosive charge, like in an airbag) is set to go off if the airbag fires, disconnected the starters power...
You can hear the bendix on the started click....so i was thinking this cable might be corroded/partically cut or the squib corroded from water leaking into the boot....

Also check the grounds....it sounds like you have SOME power to the starter...might even have full voltage, but not the amps....so make sure the battery is fully charged, terminals are tight....
 

Last edited by ZippyNH; Oct 19, 2012 at 01:46 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old Oct 21, 2012 | 07:39 PM
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Sorry for the slow reply everyone. Turned out to be a bad battery. Replaced free of charge. Thank you all
 
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