Get a compression and/or smoke test done, my thermostat seemed to be working, as did everything else, but it would start to overheat and I'd have to use the heater/AC fan to force the thermostat open and drop the temp. Then, it got to the point where it would overheat nearly instantly, and eventually it just started puking out coolant from the overflow tank. My head gasket had failed...the overheating was due to exhaust getting into the coolant system.

After I got the head gasket replaced, I noticed the car simply wouldnt get up to temp unless it was really hot outside (95+ degrees), it was stuck at least part way open and couldnt close completely. I installed a new thermostat and the car came up to temp just fine and the thermostat works as it should. Cost me about 100 bucks and 2 hours worth of my time.

Still have the old thermostat, going to take it work on Monday and put a dremel cutting wheel to it and see what makes it tick.

 

Does anyone notice their right footwell area next to the gas pedal getting hot after about an hours worth of driving? The footwell panel gets pretty hot to the touch, I replaced the thermostat housing originally last year and because of the hot footwell area I replaced the thermostat housing a second time with no change.

I figured the thermostat housing was to blame, but that's just not so. The heater core and heater core pipes are what's causing the footwell panel to get hot, but the heater core connects directly to the thermostat housing and after taking a dremel to it, it's always open by design. So if it's not the thermostat housing what other part could be the culprit?

I'm having Mini inspect it middle of next week because they feel that whatever is causing the footwell to get hot might be part of a service bulletin, when I first contacted Mini USA about the problem it took a month for Mini USA to get back to me. What else could it be and has anyone else have this hot footwell issue. If so I will give all the info so that perhaps others with this problem can also get a fix. Mini USA said it could be one of two things, one is covered by Mini and the other isn't.

 

There is a service bulletin about this subject. The fix is evidently to put some (more?) insulation around the coolant lines that run right in that area. We've seen this in at least one case before here on the board, but the person who had it done felt that there was some specific cause that the insulation did not address.

Hopefully you can search for that thread and find the results.

 

There's only one problem, I have never had insulation wrapped around the heater core pipes, so why out of the blue would my footwell get hot when it did not before July?

 

My 2011 R55 S is throwing a code that from what I understand is the thermostat not opening correctly. I do not know the code, just going from what the dealer and an independent said. They both say the thermostat housing needs to be replaced.

I have not seen any symptoms. No rough idle, no leaking coolant, no temperature warnings....yet <knocking on wood>. I am wondering how urgent it is to get this fixed. I am planning to run MINIs Slay the Sleeping Dragon in a few weeks and was considering another run for fall colors. I am a bit scared to not fix it as every car I owned growing up had cooling system issues and I absolutely cannot afford a blown up motor. What say you guys?

 

I've had some interesting phone conversations with Mini USA over a 2 month period, after a supervisor continued digging to try and find out whether or not there was a service bulletin for the hot foot-well area in the R56 MCS's finely action will be taken on Monday. Here's the reason why no one could find anything related to a recall regarding this matter, it's not a recall, it's a service bulletin for which not even Mini dealers knew about. I will say this, if everyone was as professional, kind hard working person like the representative that has been helping me, Mini USA would have scored much higher in customer service than currently perceived!

Once I get everything worked out I will post a screenshot of my inspection notes so you can show it to the dealers and or Mini USA.

 

Going on a trip? I would replace it. Also, the thermostat housing on our cars is prone to failure, why take a chance?

 

tallgntlmn - did it throw a temp sensor code ?

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...placement.html

Just check that first. If not I would replace the thermostat whole unit to be safe.

DIY for the thermostat housing. :

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...hermostat.html


Parts and information.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...rmostat-6.html

Thanks

 

2011 Clubman non-s, 79,000 mi.

Had a leak at the lower radiator hose and had to get a new radiator. Couple days later noticed a green puddle on the other side. Had a quick look under the intake and saw a green puddle on the transmission, looked like it was leaking out the electrical connector.

There's a good helmet-cam video on YouTube on this repair so decided to have a go. Took me longer than others (had a lot of trouble with that clip under the air filter) but got it successfully.

 

I prob. diagnose 3-4 a week at the dealership. anywhere from 10k - 100k miles. Ive found the ones that fail earlier on, seem to be b.c. of the thermostat its self or temp. sensor, and the ones that fail later in life, develop a leak on the housing its self.

 

There has been an update to the thermostat housing about 2 years ago, hopefully these last at least 50,000 miles. The one thing that causes cracking at the base is if you live in an area like California where it's 15-25 degrees difference between 20 miles inland versus at the beach. This causes plastic to expand and contract quickly within minutes of either destinations, that's what killed my thermostat housing. I wasn't to surprised because it was 100F+ at home and 77F at the beach!

 

The cracks are mostly on the seam on the bottom side, near the longest bend on the main part, seen them on the top seam also. Also near the temp sensor. If the temp sensor ( on top ) does leak always check the o ring first. Also if you get a temp sensor error and the thermo is good and no leaks , its the temp senor , it happens but a little more rare. The temp sensor error most of the time is because there is low or no coolant due to a leak.

Just some points I found.

 

Musta come as a COMPLETE surprise to whomever "engineered" that motor that they'd sell Minis in California...

I think these are Peugeot-designed engines? From the same people that designed and built those wonderful... no, wait, I'm thinking of someone else.
What have Peugeot EVER done well? Anyone?
Besides the bicycles, I mean.

 

BMW has been using plastic water pumps and thermostats for over a decade, the head (Vanos/Valvetronic) is a BMW design. The bottom-end is Peugeot designed. I wish BMW had used the proven Triton block which was from Chrysler back when BMW owned 26% stock.

 

Just replaced mine tonight at 58K, what a pain in the ***. All the plastic clips that break so easily, the sensors with the clips on the bottom, the 6 different hoses you have to in clamp, and so many curse words! I will say $150 in parts (to include a pair of hose pliers) plus 50 in beer I owe myself is a lot better than 600+ MINI quoted. Saturday cannot come fast enough.

 

$600 is nuts! Had mine done for under $300.

 

i highly suggest anyone with this thermostat housing issue check to see if there dealership will cover it. a local one covered the replacement under the CA emissions 7 year/70k warranty. In my warranty booklet it even shows that thermostat housing is something that is covered under that warranty. the CA warranty applies to other states too, check the warranty booklet.

some bg info, my car has 57k on it and is a 2012 MCS. there was no CEL, i just noticed coolant leaking after a short drive. just got the work done this month.

 

I tried looking on your site for the thermostat housing, but not listed, I hate taking mine into the dealership and have a code P0597. Is this thread for the N18 engine? I have a production date of 4/2012 so wondering where to get correct part with adapter lead, any recommendations? Or just get parts from Mini Dealership?

 

Hello just got the message , think you called in and got the part. Thanks

 

Mine was replaced at 62,750. I just paid the $50 deductible. I have a Certified Used Mini Next 2009 MCS with extended warranty and service. Just today I looked back at all the work I've had done in the past 18 months.

 

I replaced my thermostat housing at 72,000 miles after Sewell Mini in Plano diagnosed it as a cracked thermostat housing and quoted $850 to repair it.
It's a time-consuming job, mostly getting wiring and ductwork out of the way, but straightforward.
Imagine my surprise when I discovered the cause of the leak was that the bottom-most of the 3 bolts holding the housing on SIMPLY WAS NOT TIGHTENED!!!
No cracks, no defects of any sort, but after working that long at it I replaced it anyway.
So much for BMW's vaunted "assembly quality;" there is absolutely no way that bolt loosened in service if it had been properly torqued at the factory.

Anyway, after replacing the cracked cheap plastic waterpump (with the aluminum pump) and the poorly-installed cheap plastic thermostat housing, my JCW is now leak free and running fine - except for the slipping clutch, and using a quart of pricey oil every 1500 miles...
If I were having this work done at the local $tealer, I'd have more invested over the past 6 months than payments on a brand new one. Meanwhile, my 11-year-old Jeep with nearly 200K miles just keeps on running along, not using a drop of oil...

 

According to my trusted local shop, the housing is cracked. Clubman 2010 at 109,300 miles. I'm know more in a few hours. The reservoir was almost dry. The yellow coolant warning light came on two times and went off right away. I took it in immediately. Based on this thread, this is a known problem but has never warranted recall.

 

Mine was replaced about 2 months ago under warranty. Was picking up the car for another reason when they discovered this and fixed it.

 

2011 JCW. Oct 2010 build.
Therm housing replaced at 38,000 miles
under warranty. Currently at 50,000 and no leaks so far.

 

Expensive fix because of labor for over 3 hours. Part $140. It had hairline crack at bottom. I see an update of the part was issued several years ago but expected to last 50K. So, I guess I was doing well that my original lasted 110K. BTW my plastic water pump part was replaced under warranty around 36K. Would love to know if anyone thinks the new Clubman will be more reliable - these are not the only mechanical failures I've had due to no fault of mine further this is my second 'new' MINI since 2003 and it had similar odd failures.