roll call, have you replaced your thermostat housing .
All the water pumps we carry are metal now , even the one from MINI.
Here is a link to the location and what to look for on the older water pumps.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ump-issue.html
Here is a link to the location and what to look for on the older water pumps.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ump-issue.html
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ECSTuning,
I see you provided two part numbers for the R56 thermostat replacement kit: 11537534521KT3 or 11537534521KT4
What is the difference between the two?
I see you provided two part numbers for the R56 thermostat replacement kit: 11537534521KT3 or 11537534521KT4
What is the difference between the two?
Part # 11537534521KT3 or 11537534521KT4
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/11537534521KT/

Yes three bolts of the thermostat housing to the head. We have it in the thermostat kit. Make sure you clean the surface a little before attaching the new thermostat, in-case there is gunk built up around the seal of the old one, blue gasket.
You can see the rear connect on the left hand side of the thermostat housing . Connects to the water pipe with a clip that holds it in place.
Water Pipe
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/11537589713/

Bottom left hand side connects to the thermostat housing. There is that little clip, fits into the slot on the water pipe and holds them together.
In stock. Just in-case you go to do it and loose one or bend it.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/11537548652/

Thanks
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/11537534521KT/

Yes three bolts of the thermostat housing to the head. We have it in the thermostat kit. Make sure you clean the surface a little before attaching the new thermostat, in-case there is gunk built up around the seal of the old one, blue gasket.
You can see the rear connect on the left hand side of the thermostat housing . Connects to the water pipe with a clip that holds it in place.
Water Pipe
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/11537589713/

Bottom left hand side connects to the thermostat housing. There is that little clip, fits into the slot on the water pipe and holds them together.
In stock. Just in-case you go to do it and loose one or bend it.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/11537548652/

Thanks
One is from MINI and one is from another supplier which is OEM MINI. Just back up in-case the Genuine direct one goes on back-order again. Both include the install hardware bolts.
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MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
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I had an overheating problem.. 85k miles.. i changed the water pump and belt.. Still overheating.. I ordered the thermostat and housing.. I got it and noticed the thermostat was spring loaded OPEN.. i pulled the connector off .. which would have made the Thermo spring open. i filled it again... started it up. and an hour later it warmed up.. which meant i was right. Took it for a drive.. Boiled over again.. let it cool off and added more coolant.. Drove to work today.. boiled over and tank has water in it.. NO oil in water and no water in oil.. this is WEIRD.. anyone got another idea??????
Thermostat Replacement
Checking in with my 2009 MINI Cooper S - 39,800 miles. Thermostat being replaced at the dealer today and I am out of warranty as of this past July. Replacement should run me around $500. Just had turbo oil line replaced a month ago.
Just finished turbo Oil line two weeks ago, noticed a small puddle of coolant this afternoon on drivers side right below the transmission bell. Ordered Thermostat from Parts.com ~91.00 delivered.
Don't ya just love a project car??
67k miles, 2007 MCSA
Don't ya just love a project car??
67k miles, 2007 MCSA
Last edited by SkyJumpr16; Jan 10, 2014 at 02:38 PM. Reason: Details...details...details...
Did the thermo last weekend. Just over 60,000 miles. ECS hooked me up fast! Ordered on Thursday afternoon and had the part Saturday morning. That worked out very well since that was the only "warm" day we've had in months and Sunday it snowed again. What a ***** of a project. Good luck anyone attempting it!
I did mine right at 60k a few months back. It started out with the water pump leaking. Fixed that. Ran for a week, then I started noticing a much larger coolant leak on the opposite side of the car! So I ended up replacing the thermostat/housing. At the time the housing were on backorder so, I had to limp it around and be careful for about a month while I waited. Its been almost 4 months now and everything is peachy.
Interesting thing I found while doing this project, a whole bunch of leaves had built up behind the fender liner by the firewall. Anybody else have this odd build up as well?
Interesting thing I found while doing this project, a whole bunch of leaves had built up behind the fender liner by the firewall. Anybody else have this odd build up as well?
Oh gosh yup. I purchased mine used from Carmax about a year and a half ago with 74k on it. After I had to car for about 2 days, there was a big puddle of coolant under it... At least MINI did some failure analysis and designed it to leak instead of straight up failing. If that had been my old GM car, it would have just dumped ALL the coolant, necessitating a call to AAA.
The replacements are all aluminum housing!
Remember the wax pellet type thermostat housings, they would open when the wax got hot enough and close when cooled. Those were very simple design, the Mini design is complicated!
P0128 Code Comes Back After Replaced Thermo Housing
It's a Mini Cooper base model, 2010, 28k ,Got CEL, then went to read the detail of the code, it's' thermostat temparature below regulating temp'. Searched online and determined to replace thermostat housing. got one from local dealership. Replaced by myself in ~4 hrs. Went to local auto parts store to reset the code. ~300 miles later, today, the CEL comes on with the same error code. Only concern is not able to pass emission test, then not able to register and drive again.
Any suggestions are welcome!
Any suggestions are welcome!
Sounds like the coolant temp sensor. make sure the sensor plug is plugs all the way in and not loose. Also make sure you bleed the coolant system and get all the air out, seen those codes thrown when changed and there was still air in the system. See the changing N14 engine thermostat threads.
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Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172

MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
2010 R56 S with 75K miles. Was leaking, no code. All hoses seemed fine and could not see the leak, so figured it was from the t stat housing. Took 3.5 hours out and in taking my time. Then another hour to fill and let it settle. Went well and as stated in the how to thread. Some connectors are difficult to release especially if you cannot see them. Probe under with a pick and you'll get it. I think you do not have to take the wiring harness cover off as I did, as stated by another post it would have been fine to just pull it and the harness straight up off of the t stat housing and you can work underneath it. I think I did not need to unplug the ECU cables. Might have given a bit more room for the wiring harness to move, but might not be necessary. A thin wall 10mm socket is needed, especially for the bottom front t stat housing bolt. Removing the airbox helps to see the clip on the rear hose to the water pump. I used water pump pliers and needle nose vise grips for all the hose clamps. Bought the MINI t stat housing from Turner Motorsports for $100. MINI said they would do it for $500.
2010 R56 S with 75K miles. Was leaking, no code. All hoses seemed fine and could not see the leak, so figured it was from the t stat housing. Took 3.5 hours out and in taking my time. Then another hour to fill and let it settle. Went well and as stated in the how to thread. Some connectors are difficult to release especially if you cannot see them. Probe under with a pick and you'll get it. I think you do not have to take the wiring harness cover off as I did, as stated by another post it would have been fine to just pull it and the harness straight up off of the t stat housing and you can work underneath it. I think I did not need to unplug the ECU cables. Might have given a bit more room for the wiring harness to move, but might not be necessary. A thin wall 10mm socket is needed, especially for the bottom front t stat housing bolt. Removing the airbox helps to see the clip on the rear hose to the water pump. I used water pump pliers and needle nose vise grips for all the hose clamps. Bought the MINI t stat housing from Turner Motorsports for $100. MINI said they would do it for $500.
BMW of san Antonio wanted $750 ..
Now their just plain stealing your money if you take it there. Those service guys get paid on commission hence inflated prices, go somewhere else!
Follow the part number above and links on the DIY, if you can do it yourself. If you cant, find a indy good shop and show them the links. Thanks and hope that helps.
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MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172

MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172







