roll call, have you replaced your thermostat housing .
SA had mine replaced under the 7 year (70k?) Emissions warranty.
I thought I would share with everyone since my thermostat housing was replaced I have noticed that my fan comes on more often when I park my Mini when going places, with the old thermostat housing I remember that the fan never turned on after turning off the engine. I'm not sure why though.
I thought I would share with everyone since my thermostat housing was replaced I have noticed that my fan comes on more often when I park my Mini when going places, with the old thermostat housing I remember that the fan never turned on after turning off the engine. I'm not sure why though.
I have a 2009 MINI Cooper S with 74,000 kms. Pretty sure my thermostat went last night. The coolant is puddling above the transmission housing and trickling to the backside of the motor. Luckily the part was in stock at the local MINI dealership. Crossing my fingers that it's a quick and easy fix.
I have a 2009 MINI Cooper S with 74,000 kms. Pretty sure my thermostat went last night. The coolant is puddling above the transmission housing and trickling to the backside of the motor. Luckily the part was in stock at the local MINI dealership. Crossing my fingers that it's a quick and easy fix.
2011 mcs 37,500
Check engine light. Code P0597. Dealership replaced the thermostat under warranty yesterday. '11 MCS, 37.5K miles.
Hopefully I won't need another one, but I'll replace it myself the next time around.
So far, replaced:
clutch slave cylinder, 2 fuel injectors, thermostat, HVAC vibration damper, timing chain tensioner seal ring, warped front rotors, leaking windshield washer nozzles fixed.
After lots of mods, super fun car, but high maintenance. Hopefully more issues get worked out now rather than after the warranty ends.
Hopefully I won't need another one, but I'll replace it myself the next time around.
So far, replaced:
clutch slave cylinder, 2 fuel injectors, thermostat, HVAC vibration damper, timing chain tensioner seal ring, warped front rotors, leaking windshield washer nozzles fixed.
After lots of mods, super fun car, but high maintenance. Hopefully more issues get worked out now rather than after the warranty ends.
Last edited by bhegg; Oct 22, 2013 at 05:31 PM.
Yep. Replaced mine at 67k miles at the dealer for ~$600 (ouch). Now the cooling fan just runs and runs. Dealer says that the temperature of the coolant is within range, which I have confirmed with my tester. But since it is about 40°F out and the fan just keeps running all the freaking time, I am very worried about what will happen when it gets to be 90° to 100°. Not real happy about the "wait and see" attitude of the dealer.
2010jcw
Yep. Replaced mine at 67k miles at the dealer for ~$600 (ouch). Now the cooling fan just runs and runs. Dealer says that the temperature of the coolant is within range, which I have confirmed with my tester. But since it is about 40°F out and the fan just keeps running all the freaking time, I am very worried about what will happen when it gets to be 90° to 100°. Not real happy about the "wait and see" attitude of the dealer.
RobboMCS posted this on NAM a while back.
It explained my fan-running issues...
To understand what is going on here,you have to understand that there is a temperature sensor that tells the ecuwhat the temperature is, and a mechanical thermostat that opens at a certaintemperature and regulates water flow and therefore the temperature.
What is supposed to happen is that the mechanical thermostat is set to 105C(221). When the car is moving with good radiator flow the temp should stay atroughly 105. Once the temperature goes > 106 (223) the electric fan cuts in.This usually because the car is stationary, with no airflow.
The problem is that the mechanical thermostats seems to be a little inaccurateand out of sync. There are a whole lot of thermostats that seem to run at107-108C (224-227F). What happens in this instance is the thermostat doesn'topen water flow properly until it reaches its temp, so driving around the tempwill be 107-108C. This confuses the ecu, as the temperature sensor reads>106, so it activates the fan.
It is also possible to have the reverse problem, ie an accurate thermostat buta miscallibrated temperature sensor which reads the water temp higher than itactually is, which can produce exactly the same problem.
If this is happening, the fan is not just running when you stop the car, butnearly all the time, even driving around. When you stop it will run until thetemp drops to the 106C number.
So if you are lucky and have a "normal" thermostat that runs around104-105C you won't get the fan operating when you stop very often. If you haveone of the thermostats that runs at 106-108C you will get it a lot.
Does this matter? Not really from an engine point of view. However, it must beincreasing the risk of fan failure in the long run.
Also, just out of interest, there are actually 2 thermostats operating in 2stages. The main one runs as described above. There is a second one set to 85C(185F). When the ecu detects high turbo load from aggressive driving etc itopens the second stage, and the temps drop down significantly.
Robbo
It explained my fan-running issues...
To understand what is going on here,you have to understand that there is a temperature sensor that tells the ecuwhat the temperature is, and a mechanical thermostat that opens at a certaintemperature and regulates water flow and therefore the temperature.
What is supposed to happen is that the mechanical thermostat is set to 105C(221). When the car is moving with good radiator flow the temp should stay atroughly 105. Once the temperature goes > 106 (223) the electric fan cuts in.This usually because the car is stationary, with no airflow.
The problem is that the mechanical thermostats seems to be a little inaccurateand out of sync. There are a whole lot of thermostats that seem to run at107-108C (224-227F). What happens in this instance is the thermostat doesn'topen water flow properly until it reaches its temp, so driving around the tempwill be 107-108C. This confuses the ecu, as the temperature sensor reads>106, so it activates the fan.
It is also possible to have the reverse problem, ie an accurate thermostat buta miscallibrated temperature sensor which reads the water temp higher than itactually is, which can produce exactly the same problem.
If this is happening, the fan is not just running when you stop the car, butnearly all the time, even driving around. When you stop it will run until thetemp drops to the 106C number.
So if you are lucky and have a "normal" thermostat that runs around104-105C you won't get the fan operating when you stop very often. If you haveone of the thermostats that runs at 106-108C you will get it a lot.
Does this matter? Not really from an engine point of view. However, it must beincreasing the risk of fan failure in the long run.
Also, just out of interest, there are actually 2 thermostats operating in 2stages. The main one runs as described above. There is a second one set to 85C(185F). When the ecu detects high turbo load from aggressive driving etc itopens the second stage, and the temps drop down significantly.
Robbo
RobboMCS posted this on NAM a while back.
It explained my fan-running issues...
To understand what is going on here,you have to understand that there is a temperature sensor that tells the ecuwhat the temperature is, and a mechanical thermostat that opens at a certaintemperature and regulates water flow and therefore the temperature.
What is supposed to happen is that the mechanical thermostat is set to 105C(221). When the car is moving with good radiator flow the temp should stay atroughly 105. Once the temperature goes > 106 (223) the electric fan cuts in.This usually because the car is stationary, with no airflow.
The problem is that the mechanical thermostats seems to be a little inaccurateand out of sync. There are a whole lot of thermostats that seem to run at107-108C (224-227F). What happens in this instance is the thermostat doesn'topen water flow properly until it reaches its temp, so driving around the tempwill be 107-108C. This confuses the ecu, as the temperature sensor reads>106, so it activates the fan.
It is also possible to have the reverse problem, ie an accurate thermostat buta miscallibrated temperature sensor which reads the water temp higher than itactually is, which can produce exactly the same problem.
If this is happening, the fan is not just running when you stop the car, butnearly all the time, even driving around. When you stop it will run until thetemp drops to the 106C number.
So if you are lucky and have a "normal" thermostat that runs around104-105C you won't get the fan operating when you stop very often. If you haveone of the thermostats that runs at 106-108C you will get it a lot.
Does this matter? Not really from an engine point of view. However, it must beincreasing the risk of fan failure in the long run.
Also, just out of interest, there are actually 2 thermostats operating in 2stages. The main one runs as described above. There is a second one set to 85C(185F). When the ecu detects high turbo load from aggressive driving etc itopens the second stage, and the temps drop down significantly.
Robbo
It explained my fan-running issues...
To understand what is going on here,you have to understand that there is a temperature sensor that tells the ecuwhat the temperature is, and a mechanical thermostat that opens at a certaintemperature and regulates water flow and therefore the temperature.
What is supposed to happen is that the mechanical thermostat is set to 105C(221). When the car is moving with good radiator flow the temp should stay atroughly 105. Once the temperature goes > 106 (223) the electric fan cuts in.This usually because the car is stationary, with no airflow.
The problem is that the mechanical thermostats seems to be a little inaccurateand out of sync. There are a whole lot of thermostats that seem to run at107-108C (224-227F). What happens in this instance is the thermostat doesn'topen water flow properly until it reaches its temp, so driving around the tempwill be 107-108C. This confuses the ecu, as the temperature sensor reads>106, so it activates the fan.
It is also possible to have the reverse problem, ie an accurate thermostat buta miscallibrated temperature sensor which reads the water temp higher than itactually is, which can produce exactly the same problem.
If this is happening, the fan is not just running when you stop the car, butnearly all the time, even driving around. When you stop it will run until thetemp drops to the 106C number.
So if you are lucky and have a "normal" thermostat that runs around104-105C you won't get the fan operating when you stop very often. If you haveone of the thermostats that runs at 106-108C you will get it a lot.
Does this matter? Not really from an engine point of view. However, it must beincreasing the risk of fan failure in the long run.
Also, just out of interest, there are actually 2 thermostats operating in 2stages. The main one runs as described above. There is a second one set to 85C(185F). When the ecu detects high turbo load from aggressive driving etc itopens the second stage, and the temps drop down significantly.
Robbo
Replaced the thermostat and housing last week at 79000+. Drove home to find a dead battery the next day. Replaced that myself and wondering why the "Check Engine" light came on after the battery switch... ugh!
Year and model would help, certain Mini's are programmed after replacement of the battery. Check to see if your Mini has anything attached to the ground and positive wires leading from the battery terminals.
Try page 7 of this thread. ECS tuning has everything you need and I've found their prices to be very comparable and their customer service and support, top notch. Items ship fast also.
Thanks guys. We appreciate the kind words.
We have the Genuine MINI thermostat housing kits in stock right now.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...housing-7.html
We have the Genuine MINI thermostat housing kits in stock right now.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...housing-7.html
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MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
2009 R55 @ 72k, finally. Not recognizing coolant leaking and watching yellow thermometer warning light changing to red light is not funny at all. oh. oh top of watching warning lights, watching lovely steam and smoke coming out of my hood was supa thrilling.
08 R56 with 37K miles and both T-Stat and water Pump is being replaced this week at a cost of $1,300.00. I was told the new water pump is not PLASTIC housing as the original. I guess they figured the plastic was not good enough. I'm not happy about the cost but I wanted it done at the dealership to make sur it is done correctly .
I had mine replaced last week on my '07 MCS with 70k miles. It cost $461 to have it fixed at my local Mini dealership in southern NH. I was at a point where I was losing almost a quart of coolant per day for about a week before they could take the car in to fix the problem. The service adviser said there was a hairline crack in the housing unit (hairline?).
RobboMCS posted this on NAM a while back.
It explained my fan-running issues...
To understand what is going on here,you have to understand that there is a temperature sensor that tells the ecuwhat the temperature is, and a mechanical thermostat that opens at a certaintemperature and regulates water flow and therefore the temperature.
What is supposed to happen is that the mechanical thermostat is set to 105C(221). When the car is moving with good radiator flow the temp should stay atroughly 105. Once the temperature goes > 106 (223) the electric fan cuts in.This usually because the car is stationary, with no airflow.
The problem is that the mechanical thermostats seems to be a little inaccurateand out of sync. There are a whole lot of thermostats that seem to run at107-108C (224-227F). What happens in this instance is the thermostat doesn'topen water flow properly until it reaches its temp, so driving around the tempwill be 107-108C. This confuses the ecu, as the temperature sensor reads>106, so it activates the fan.
It is also possible to have the reverse problem, ie an accurate thermostat buta miscallibrated temperature sensor which reads the water temp higher than itactually is, which can produce exactly the same problem.
If this is happening, the fan is not just running when you stop the car, butnearly all the time, even driving around. When you stop it will run until thetemp drops to the 106C number.
So if you are lucky and have a "normal" thermostat that runs around104-105C you won't get the fan operating when you stop very often. If you haveone of the thermostats that runs at 106-108C you will get it a lot.
Does this matter? Not really from an engine point of view. However, it must beincreasing the risk of fan failure in the long run.
Also, just out of interest, there are actually 2 thermostats operating in 2stages. The main one runs as described above. There is a second one set to 85C(185F). When the ecu detects high turbo load from aggressive driving etc itopens the second stage, and the temps drop down significantly.
Robbo
It explained my fan-running issues...
To understand what is going on here,you have to understand that there is a temperature sensor that tells the ecuwhat the temperature is, and a mechanical thermostat that opens at a certaintemperature and regulates water flow and therefore the temperature.
What is supposed to happen is that the mechanical thermostat is set to 105C(221). When the car is moving with good radiator flow the temp should stay atroughly 105. Once the temperature goes > 106 (223) the electric fan cuts in.This usually because the car is stationary, with no airflow.
The problem is that the mechanical thermostats seems to be a little inaccurateand out of sync. There are a whole lot of thermostats that seem to run at107-108C (224-227F). What happens in this instance is the thermostat doesn'topen water flow properly until it reaches its temp, so driving around the tempwill be 107-108C. This confuses the ecu, as the temperature sensor reads>106, so it activates the fan.
It is also possible to have the reverse problem, ie an accurate thermostat buta miscallibrated temperature sensor which reads the water temp higher than itactually is, which can produce exactly the same problem.
If this is happening, the fan is not just running when you stop the car, butnearly all the time, even driving around. When you stop it will run until thetemp drops to the 106C number.
So if you are lucky and have a "normal" thermostat that runs around104-105C you won't get the fan operating when you stop very often. If you haveone of the thermostats that runs at 106-108C you will get it a lot.
Does this matter? Not really from an engine point of view. However, it must beincreasing the risk of fan failure in the long run.
Also, just out of interest, there are actually 2 thermostats operating in 2stages. The main one runs as described above. There is a second one set to 85C(185F). When the ecu detects high turbo load from aggressive driving etc itopens the second stage, and the temps drop down significantly.
Robbo
Last edited by 1guru2; Dec 18, 2013 at 09:12 AM. Reason: forgot thermo rR&R






