Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).

roll call, have you replaced your thermostat housing .

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Old Oct 17, 2013 | 10:33 AM
  #226  
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From: SoCal 626
SA had mine replaced under the 7 year (70k?) Emissions warranty.

Originally Posted by borderwave2
Got my thermostat done today after waiting 3 weeks. These should really be an extended warranty item like the HPFP.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2013 | 09:05 PM
  #227  
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From: Mission Viejo, CA
I thought I would share with everyone since my thermostat housing was replaced I have noticed that my fan comes on more often when I park my Mini when going places, with the old thermostat housing I remember that the fan never turned on after turning off the engine. I'm not sure why though.
 
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Old Oct 22, 2013 | 08:32 AM
  #228  
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Originally Posted by Systemlord
I thought I would share with everyone since my thermostat housing was replaced I have noticed that my fan comes on more often when I park my Mini when going places, with the old thermostat housing I remember that the fan never turned on after turning off the engine. I'm not sure why though.
I've noticed this as well. It seems to run longer and more frequently than before.I can't imagine the housing itself causing this. Other than maybe the sensor could be different. It is normal for it to run sometimes to keep the engine cool from what I understand. Or for the turbo cooling pump to transfer some heat. I'm not 100% sure on the operation. Kinda strange though. Pretty sure I got it bleed correctly.
 
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Old Oct 22, 2013 | 12:31 PM
  #229  
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I have a 2009 MINI Cooper S with 74,000 kms. Pretty sure my thermostat went last night. The coolant is puddling above the transmission housing and trickling to the backside of the motor. Luckily the part was in stock at the local MINI dealership. Crossing my fingers that it's a quick and easy fix.
 
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Old Oct 22, 2013 | 01:20 PM
  #230  
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From: Mission Viejo, CA
Originally Posted by jungle168
I have a 2009 MINI Cooper S with 74,000 kms. Pretty sure my thermostat went last night. The coolant is puddling above the transmission housing and trickling to the backside of the motor. Luckily the part was in stock at the local MINI dealership. Crossing my fingers that it's a quick and easy fix.
How often does your fan come on when turning off your engine going places?
 
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Old Oct 22, 2013 | 04:15 PM
  #231  
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From: Washington 360
just now having to get mine done. appointment set for monday at a local mini shop. i have a 07 with 56000 miles. cost 600$!
 
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Old Oct 22, 2013 | 05:23 PM
  #232  
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2011 mcs 37,500

Check engine light. Code P0597. Dealership replaced the thermostat under warranty yesterday. '11 MCS, 37.5K miles.

Hopefully I won't need another one, but I'll replace it myself the next time around.

So far, replaced:
clutch slave cylinder, 2 fuel injectors, thermostat, HVAC vibration damper, timing chain tensioner seal ring, warped front rotors, leaking windshield washer nozzles fixed.

After lots of mods, super fun car, but high maintenance. Hopefully more issues get worked out now rather than after the warranty ends.
 

Last edited by bhegg; Oct 22, 2013 at 05:31 PM.
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 04:47 PM
  #233  
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Yep. Replaced mine at 67k miles at the dealer for ~$600 (ouch). Now the cooling fan just runs and runs. Dealer says that the temperature of the coolant is within range, which I have confirmed with my tester. But since it is about 40°F out and the fan just keeps running all the freaking time, I am very worried about what will happen when it gets to be 90° to 100°. Not real happy about the "wait and see" attitude of the dealer.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 04:49 PM
  #234  
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2010jcw

Yep. Replaced mine at 67k miles at the dealer for ~$600 (ouch). Now the cooling fan just runs and runs. Dealer says that the temperature of the coolant is within range, which I have confirmed with my tester. But since it is about 40°F out and the fan just keeps running all the freaking time, I am very worried about what will happen when it gets to be 90° to 100°. Not real happy about the "wait and see" attitude of the dealer.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2013 | 09:21 AM
  #235  
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RobboMCS posted this on NAM a while back.
It explained my fan-running issues...

To understand what is going on here,you have to understand that there is a temperature sensor that tells the ecuwhat the temperature is, and a mechanical thermostat that opens at a certaintemperature and regulates water flow and therefore the temperature.

What is supposed to happen is that the mechanical thermostat is set to 105C(221). When the car is moving with good radiator flow the temp should stay atroughly 105. Once the temperature goes > 106 (223) the electric fan cuts in.This usually because the car is stationary, with no airflow.

The problem is that the mechanical thermostats seems to be a little inaccurateand out of sync. There are a whole lot of thermostats that seem to run at107-108C (224-227F). What happens in this instance is the thermostat doesn'topen water flow properly until it reaches its temp, so driving around the tempwill be 107-108C. This confuses the ecu, as the temperature sensor reads>106, so it activates the fan.

It is also possible to have the reverse problem, ie an accurate thermostat buta miscallibrated temperature sensor which reads the water temp higher than itactually is, which can produce exactly the same problem.

If this is happening, the fan is not just running when you stop the car, butnearly all the time, even driving around. When you stop it will run until thetemp drops to the 106C number.

So if you are lucky and have a "normal" thermostat that runs around104-105C you won't get the fan operating when you stop very often. If you haveone of the thermostats that runs at 106-108C you will get it a lot.

Does this matter? Not really from an engine point of view. However, it must beincreasing the risk of fan failure in the long run.

Also, just out of interest, there are actually 2 thermostats operating in 2stages. The main one runs as described above. There is a second one set to 85C(185F). When the ecu detects high turbo load from aggressive driving etc itopens the second stage, and the temps drop down significantly.

Robbo
 
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Old Nov 11, 2013 | 12:32 PM
  #236  
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Originally Posted by cjm
RobboMCS posted this on NAM a while back.
It explained my fan-running issues...

To understand what is going on here,you have to understand that there is a temperature sensor that tells the ecuwhat the temperature is, and a mechanical thermostat that opens at a certaintemperature and regulates water flow and therefore the temperature.

What is supposed to happen is that the mechanical thermostat is set to 105C(221). When the car is moving with good radiator flow the temp should stay atroughly 105. Once the temperature goes > 106 (223) the electric fan cuts in.This usually because the car is stationary, with no airflow.

The problem is that the mechanical thermostats seems to be a little inaccurateand out of sync. There are a whole lot of thermostats that seem to run at107-108C (224-227F). What happens in this instance is the thermostat doesn'topen water flow properly until it reaches its temp, so driving around the tempwill be 107-108C. This confuses the ecu, as the temperature sensor reads>106, so it activates the fan.

It is also possible to have the reverse problem, ie an accurate thermostat buta miscallibrated temperature sensor which reads the water temp higher than itactually is, which can produce exactly the same problem.

If this is happening, the fan is not just running when you stop the car, butnearly all the time, even driving around. When you stop it will run until thetemp drops to the 106C number.

So if you are lucky and have a "normal" thermostat that runs around104-105C you won't get the fan operating when you stop very often. If you haveone of the thermostats that runs at 106-108C you will get it a lot.

Does this matter? Not really from an engine point of view. However, it must beincreasing the risk of fan failure in the long run.

Also, just out of interest, there are actually 2 thermostats operating in 2stages. The main one runs as described above. There is a second one set to 85C(185F). When the ecu detects high turbo load from aggressive driving etc itopens the second stage, and the temps drop down significantly.

Robbo
Thats entirely plausible. You would think they'd have some good testing for the Tsats, however which such a demand for housings they may have rushed them out. Mine runs consistently in the 106-108 range. So probably why my fan runs alot when its parked. Or more than it used to. Hopefully it won't be around when its time to deal with the fan wearing out.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2013 | 01:20 PM
  #237  
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2004 MCS. Replaced mine while I was swapping clutches at about 75K. It had a slow leak around the gasket. The new one is doing the same thing and will receive some attention shortly.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2013 | 11:47 AM
  #238  
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Replaced the thermostat and housing last week at 79000+. Drove home to find a dead battery the next day. Replaced that myself and wondering why the "Check Engine" light came on after the battery switch... ugh!
 
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Old Nov 16, 2013 | 03:06 PM
  #239  
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From: Mission Viejo, CA
Originally Posted by Doug C
Replaced the thermostat and housing last week at 79000+. Drove home to find a dead battery the next day. Replaced that myself and wondering why the "Check Engine" light came on after the battery switch... ugh!
Year and model would help, certain Mini's are programmed after replacement of the battery. Check to see if your Mini has anything attached to the ground and positive wires leading from the battery terminals.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2013 | 11:38 AM
  #240  
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Mine is leaking.. add water every trip.. ok for 20 miles to work. add water 20 miles home
need to start the hunt for housing kit tonight
 
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Old Nov 21, 2013 | 02:24 PM
  #241  
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Originally Posted by Lasttoy
Mine is leaking.. add water every trip.. ok for 20 miles to work. add water 20 miles home
need to start the hunt for housing kit tonight
Try page 7 of this thread. ECS tuning has everything you need and I've found their prices to be very comparable and their customer service and support, top notch. Items ship fast also.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2013 | 08:47 PM
  #242  
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From: Spokane, Wa. it's not near Seattle
I second the great customer service from ECS. I ordered my thermostat housing from them and had it two days later. Easy job if you're planning on doing it yourself.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2013 | 08:36 AM
  #243  
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Thanks guys. We appreciate the kind words.

We have the Genuine MINI thermostat housing kits in stock right now.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...housing-7.html
 
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Old Nov 27, 2013 | 11:13 AM
  #244  
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on my 2009 Cooper S I had to replace the thermostat housing that was cracked and losing coolant at 41,000 mi. Next time it's DIY not the $500 at the stealership. MPH
 
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 09:26 AM
  #245  
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mine went out at about 80k and was replaced by minicorsa.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2013 | 11:21 AM
  #246  
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2009 R55 @ 72k, finally. Not recognizing coolant leaking and watching yellow thermometer warning light changing to red light is not funny at all. oh. oh top of watching warning lights, watching lovely steam and smoke coming out of my hood was supa thrilling.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2013 | 08:26 AM
  #247  
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08 R56 with 37K miles and both T-Stat and water Pump is being replaced this week at a cost of $1,300.00. I was told the new water pump is not PLASTIC housing as the original. I guess they figured the plastic was not good enough. I'm not happy about the cost but I wanted it done at the dealership to make sur it is done correctly .
 
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Old Dec 16, 2013 | 03:15 PM
  #248  
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I had mine replaced last week on my '07 MCS with 70k miles. It cost $461 to have it fixed at my local Mini dealership in southern NH. I was at a point where I was losing almost a quart of coolant per day for about a week before they could take the car in to fix the problem. The service adviser said there was a hairline crack in the housing unit (hairline?).
 
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 08:27 AM
  #249  
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Replaced the thermostat housing at 60K miles. The water pump failed shortly there after. Both are lots of fun to DIY.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 09:07 AM
  #250  
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Originally Posted by cjm
RobboMCS posted this on NAM a while back.
It explained my fan-running issues...

To understand what is going on here,you have to understand that there is a temperature sensor that tells the ecuwhat the temperature is, and a mechanical thermostat that opens at a certaintemperature and regulates water flow and therefore the temperature.

What is supposed to happen is that the mechanical thermostat is set to 105C(221). When the car is moving with good radiator flow the temp should stay atroughly 105. Once the temperature goes > 106 (223) the electric fan cuts in.This usually because the car is stationary, with no airflow.

The problem is that the mechanical thermostats seems to be a little inaccurateand out of sync. There are a whole lot of thermostats that seem to run at107-108C (224-227F). What happens in this instance is the thermostat doesn'topen water flow properly until it reaches its temp, so driving around the tempwill be 107-108C. This confuses the ecu, as the temperature sensor reads>106, so it activates the fan.

It is also possible to have the reverse problem, ie an accurate thermostat buta miscallibrated temperature sensor which reads the water temp higher than itactually is, which can produce exactly the same problem.

If this is happening, the fan is not just running when you stop the car, butnearly all the time, even driving around. When you stop it will run until thetemp drops to the 106C number.

So if you are lucky and have a "normal" thermostat that runs around104-105C you won't get the fan operating when you stop very often. If you haveone of the thermostats that runs at 106-108C you will get it a lot.

Does this matter? Not really from an engine point of view. However, it must beincreasing the risk of fan failure in the long run.

Also, just out of interest, there are actually 2 thermostats operating in 2stages. The main one runs as described above. There is a second one set to 85C(185F). When the ecu detects high turbo load from aggressive driving etc itopens the second stage, and the temps drop down significantly.

Robbo
My wife,s 2011 R55 runs as you describe. Had to replace the thermo on her car at 16K last month. My 2013 R56 JCW and the 2013 GP 2's only have second stage and run at 85 to 90C. Maybe MINI is catching on to under bonnet heat killing the HPFP, thermostats, and water pumps. My water pump is now aluminum and not plastic as in the earlier years.
 

Last edited by 1guru2; Dec 18, 2013 at 09:12 AM. Reason: forgot thermo rR&R
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