thanks for this info.

So I entered my VIN where it is requested. I get a drop-down selection for 02 related repair reimbursement(s):
1. Mini OC2 Seat Occupancy mat
2. Mini Recall 15V-205: OC3 Mat/Prior Repairs

Not sure what these are referring to? ("Seat Occupancy mat", etc.,...). Guess these reimbursement items depend on which specific model/year Mini we own ?

 

Hmm, yeah, if the thermostat housing isn't showing up then MINI didn't recall it for your model. Keep the website handy, though.

 

thanks

 

there's a class action lawsuit on the high pressure fuel pumps. if done at the dealer, if i recall, it's a complete reimbursement. if done at a local shop, reimbursement of $1300...both options are good for 2 pumps. i was experiencing stalls, half check engine light, rough morning start and i have had the error code for the open circuit on the thermostat for awhile.

after calling the dealer to set up an appointment, he told me there was a warranty extension on the thermostat housing and that will come up in the diagnostic...

the next day, he called and said the high pressure fuel pump will need to be replaced....the thermostat will also be replaced under that extension...he also said that there is a footwell module (FRM) that is also throwing a code and is also covered by a warranty extension

total bill is $1979
$1513 just for the pump
$140 tax
$60 pressure hose
$36 radiator treatment
$20 loaner car
$19 shop supplies
$180 labor
$9 3x torx screws

 

interesting, thanks for that info! I plan to submit my recent repair statements directly to Mini- I need some resolution.

Seems like just about every significant component on these cars are prematurely vulnerable. I think a lot has to do with poor materials choice
(in the name of saving production costs)

 

I’m getting quoted $190 for thermostat and $500 with labor. Anyone know the cost of the thermostat for a 2012 r56 Cooper s + standard labor rates?

have the P0597 and am noticing my coolant overflow is dipping below the minimum Mark.

thank you.

 

did you check with the dealer to see if there was a warranty extension on your 2012?

 

Had mine done in 2016 on a 2010 R56 JCW at an independent shop.
- Thermostat was $146
- Labor was $240

Mini reimbursed me for everything.

Check www.mini-rp.com to see if your vehicle qualifies. If you go to a 3rd party shop, make sure they use OEM parts and be sure to get the part # because MINI asks for it if they are going to reimburse you.

On ECS Tuning, they have your T-housing on sale for $112, original $168: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/11538674895/

 

Here is a copy of my recent service invoice from Mini Of Universal City (Calif.). They replaced the thermostat housing on my 2009 Mini Cooper S Coupe (46,000 miles):


I'm wondering, is the service extension still available?

 

It should be, give them a call. I believe it's 10 years from new replacement.

 

I ended up replacing the thermostat and water pipe on my 2010 MCS after having JBE stall issues that were not yet confirmed. I got the OBD fault code several times that the circuit was open. My indie shop kept clearing the codes troubleshooting the stalling issue as they went along chasing the gremlin that I eventually confirmed was the culprit (bad LPFP relay). Eventually, they asked I schedule a visit with my local dealer to have the thermostat replaced under extended warranty as it may have been part of the problem (still under 10 year warranty). I scheduled the appointment and the dealership would not replace it under extended warranty without the corresponding code (I had a screenshot off my OBD reader) and since I was chasing the gremlin responsible for my stalling (which was the JBE in the end) I ended up doing it myself. I broke the water pipe to boot removing the old 'stat and replaced both. It wasn't too bad. Good times.

 

@WestCoastD It should still be covered under extended warranty. Give Mini USA a call and give them your VIN or call Mini Universal directly.

 

thank you!

 

I did the thermostat on my 2011 clubman myself years ago. Luckily my 2013 MCS has not needed it yet as I approach 90k

 

do you remember how many miles your 2011 Clubman had when you first changed the thermostat?

 

I have'nt had a chance to read thru this whole thread from the beginning yet- I'm curious what percentage of latter year, pure BMW produced (and powered), Mini Cooper's experience these thermostat (and related) premature failures? Are the BMW powered models more durable in this manner?

 

I replaced mine at 70k, it was leaking and had some weird grey goop around the seal with fibers floating around. Now I'm leaking closer to the passenger side, I'm thinking I probably didn't connect the back of the thermostat all the way or possibly my water pump is leaking.

 

Replaced mine at 130k. $50 for the part took an 1hr of work myself to do. 2cigs and about 4 things of powerade

 

Not sure if my Second hand mini has had it done, but sitting at 259k km and ive put roughly 75k on it in 8months of active driving and no issue... that being said i have the housing, and the rear pipe is on order. I am considering swapping out all the main coolant lines for some new silicone ones, as the car is... 13 yyears old and 259k km.

 

Changed mine and the water pipe at 110k km.

 

I've done this job twice. The first at around 125k. The second around 150k when the replacement doorman failed
Still rocking the original water pipe at over 200k

 

Twice.
Most recent at 96,000 km. Don't buy cheap parts, especially for hard-to-access components.

 

Did my 2011 Clubman years ago, but my 2013 MCS has had only one tiny coolant leak, on a sensor I think. My mechanic just replaced an O ring and it’s been fine since. 98k miles and it’s been rock solid.

 

Just changed my thermostat at 49k miles. There was a slight leak that got worse. I pressure tested it last month and found the bleeder screw leaking. I went to tighten the screw and it broke off. I replaced it thinking it would fix the problem but I was still gradually losing coolant. I replaced the water pipe while I was back there. The water pipe would not come off and I broke it trying to twist it off.

I think I could've just tightened the thermostat bolts and it would've been ok, but better safe than sorry. The gasket seemed kind of flat on the bottom, so that may have been why it was leaking. I might try to pressure test the thermostat next week.

 

2016 Countryman S ALL4 R60/N18

Replaced the thermostat housing due to a leak at the housing mounting connection to the engine.
Also replaced the plastic cooling tube since I was in there. A few notes:
Remove the air intake for easier access to the tube.
Get a good pair of hose clamp pliers and cable style pliers for hard to reach clamps.
Carefully color code all connectors so they go back in where they belong.
Take photos for proper wire loom routing.
A shot of Blaster Silicon Spray into the tube’s connection to the engine water freed up the o-ring and made it very easy to remove.
I recommend applying some silicon based grease to both ends of the tube when installing. I used Syl-Glyde.
Install the tube at the engine side but leave it back about 1/8”. Then insert the thermostat housing into the tube at the other end and push it all the way in to line up the groove for the clip. Insert the clip before inserting the 3 mounting bolts.
When re inserting the metal clip at the thermostat housing end tie a piece of yarn around the top of the clip and use extra long needle nose pliers to install.
After the clip is on, tighten the 3 bolts.