So I finally got the engine out, transmission off and set the flywheel properly. This is a valeo setup now, and there are like 4 ways you can install it, only 1 being the right way. I put the chain back together properly and turned it over. Got 180-185psi on cylinders 2 and 3, and 150-160 on 1 and 4. Pretty sure it's got some valve damage, so I took the head off. The valves actually look pretty decent. How can I tell if they're bad? Maybe it's my rings that are no good....

 

With the head on a workbench, valves pointing up, fill the combustion spaces in the head with mineral spirits or kerosene and let it sit. If the liquid level stays, then the valves are good, if it leaks down, then the valves are not sealing.

 

Hang on tight --- per the Bentley manual, both the crank-to-flywheel and the clutch pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts are to be replaced. The six crank bolts have a "unique" torque sequence, so I'm pretty sure these are TTY bolts.

And I gotta agree with DneprDave --- check for valve seating. Not likely that the pressure difference is caused by rings. All the numbers are good, just not within a reasonable percentage of each other.

 

After days of work and weeks of waiting for parts, my little Clubman is alive. Took the first test drive yesterday (my first Mini experience) and wow, what a car?! I loved the throttle response and crisp handling. The problem was some idiot put the flywheel on wrong, and when it went in for a timing chain, they destroyed every valve in the engine. All 16 were doing the funky chicken when I spun them in my drill. I went ahead and replaced the piston rings while I had it apart, as the ring end gap on the top ring was questionably within the widest margin of teh spec. I also cleaned all the carbon buildup off the pistons, man were they dirty?! I believe the PO ran conventional oil in it, as it was never hard to wipe off my garage floor. So 4 sets of rings, 16 valves and a head gasket later, it's assembled and purring in the drive way. Only issue I wonder about is the slight hesitation at idle. I've not run her very far, maybe a mile, but at idle, while standing at the tail pipe, I can hear a slight variation in RPM. It'll go up, then down ever so slightly... Could that be the timing advance solenoid on its way out?

 

 

First, are you sure it doesn't have the locking pin hole? It's on the back side, facing the block. It can be hard to locate. I use a very small screwdriver or small drill bit (instead of the actual pin) while watching a pair of equal length sticks to be at the same height (inserted in plugs 1 & 2 or 3 & 4). This can happen four times, but only one will allow the screwdriver to find the hole. Then it's a matter of jockeying the flywheel around 'til the pin slips into place.

Actually, my OS Giken was one of the last mfg'd without this hole --- apparently they weren't aware it was needed. I didn't find out 'til I had already unloaded the OEM. I found a scrap OEM flywheel just for timing. Eventually, I took both the scrap version and Giken's to a machine shop and had them drill the hole. Works great!

Here's a pic of the scrap flywheel, with the locking pin hole circled. The other holes are probably balancing holes, and are a different radius.

 

Thank you. I made 20+ phone calls today around Denver and Colorado Springs to find a used flywheel. Finally this afternoon I called a dealer up north and holy-crap they had one which they are loaning me. Is that luck or what? I'm driving up there to pick it up soon. I am hoping the machine shop and drill a new hole in the proper location in case there are any timing issues in the future. The Mini tech confirmed that all the pistons are at the same height BTDC at 90 degrees. It's rare but some of the other techs have built N14 engines as well and were familiar with the problem.

Thanks for your assistance. FMI where in the world are you? Just curious. All the best, Dan Raabe

 

My shop told me this hole is actually an oval --- long axis on the radius, not circumference. Anyhow, congrats on finding one to use.

Upper right-hand corner of my posts show location as "Northern NV". Specifically, I'm about a 1/2 hour East of Carson City, in a little town called Dayton. Close to Virginia City and Reno too. Only one other bad-*** Mini in the area, all the others are mostly OEM, hardly any stage 1's. Our club, Sierra Nevada Mini Coopers (SNMC) still has some fun events tho.

Good luck getting that hole machined.

 

The vanos can adjust some out of static timing but slack and wear in the chain means its good to check now and then. I set the crank shaft by looking for the gap in the hall efects wheel you can see it by where the sensor is then i set 90 deg by using a rod/dowel to check piston height. for best static setting rotate the engine a while then use a dial indicator gauge on the valve stem its maybe a bit overkill but I like my static dead on, when set right an engine will start first crank all the time. there is also a T line on camshafts that is set up equal distance.

 

I found a twin mass flywheel at a local dealer. The engine builder used it with the tool to set the crank. The only thing that worries me is that I used a Cat Cam and the engraving is in a different place. I know they set the cams with the engraving facing up.

 

FYI. I purchased an aftermarket flywheel from JMTC and it looks nothing like the original. And there is no place for the 90degree hole. So fuggadeaboutit. The way to go if the engine is out of the car is to source a used stock flywheel and set the crank. Also the Cat Cams are not engraved with an expensive laser like the factory cams. Hopefully Mila from Cat Cams engraved his info on the correct side of the cam. I'm waiting for him to respond to a few questions and I'll share the answers.
The engine is back together and I'm installing the peripherals. Not sure about the fuel injector tool but I'll follow the Bentley manual.
******** that I can't believe is designed into the engine - Oil filter housing. The machine shop looked at it and had to grind the mating face with the engine to make it flat. Three bolts to mate it to the block? How stupid.

 

Since mine is still all apart, here's a pic of my Cat cams, showing the markings. No, they aren't laser marked and they're marked between lobes 2 & 3 instead of 3 & 4, but still facing up. Also note the special locking tool location --- the tool will only mount one way on the cams --- one of the four surfaces is still round, preventing the tool from installing. Cam could be installed, just not locked in place properly. You could also use Bentley's pics of the cam lobes pointing in specific directions. When I bought my cams, there were only two authorized dealers in the USA --- VAC Motorsports and another on the west coast. Mine was from VAC. Are you sure yours are Cat Cams?

A scrap OEM flywheel will also work --- usually. Lots cheaper and readily available too. I took a scrap version with my "unfinished" aftermarket flywheel to a machine shop, for them to drill a tool hole and rebalance. Been working fine. I'd rather spend the extra bucks than swap flywheels anytime timing needs to be verified. Too bad you can't get JMTC to spring for the machining / rebalancing.

If the head is already mounted, you're pretty much committed to getting the FI seal tool. Do them one at a time then the rail.

 

They are Cat Cams. I ordered them through Snead4Speed. Came in a Cat Cams box.
Like I mentioned the last technical hurdle is to wire up the N18 oil pump using MSD components to open the solenoid at the correct RPM.

 

OOPS, I lied! Just started assembly and found out that the factory marking on Cat's exhaust cam is NOT on top when locked in place --- it's facing down. Cam lobes point correctly per Bentley.

Dan, you might want to talk with Kevin Parker, of FaceBook's Project SuperCooper. He tried the N18 oil pump in his N14 but went back to OEM. I'm not sure why, but maybe he can save you some grief.

 

How tight do these factory locks fit the cams? The aftermarket ones I have seem a little loose..You can move the cams slightly which doesn't seem right to me.

 

Cam locking tools should fit "snug" around each cam when both halves are bolted to the head and each other. I suggest you return them and get a different mfg'r set.

 

do you have any brand recommendation or just buy mini ones?

 

Mine is made by EWK ---
There's probably others out there just as good.