Another newbie here. Can this flywheel pin and cam locks be installed with the engine/trans still installed? I suspect my timing is off, and don't mind buying the tool to check the cam/crank alignment. I just don't want to pull my motor to check it, and find out it is correct!!

 

Yes, no removal necessary.

 

the locking pin secures the crank, the camshafts have markings (IN & EX) they have be visible if you look straight down in the cams, the lobes next to cylinder #1 have to point a certain direction, Intake= lobes point towards firewall in an upward angle, the exhaust= lobes point towards the front bumper in an upward angle. You also need a cam timing tool to lock the cams!

 

I recently replaced my timing chain and tensioner. I consulted my local mini mechanic about the correct procedure for torquing the vanos unit (since it rolls forward when you tighten the bolt). I asked if I needed to use the dummy tensioner and he said no. Now my car sputters pretty bad when I try to accelerate quickly and the check engine light came on. It is also getting poor gas mileage even though I'm keeping my foot out of it. I have been going crazy trying to figure out. After reading this thread I think this may be causing my problems. Correct me if I'm wrong: the dummy tensioner prevents movement of the vanos unit when tightening the bolts. I do not have a dummy tensioner, but if I can prevent movement of the vanos when I torque the bolt it will accomplish the same thing?

 

according to Bentley, you need the cam tools for what you're doing. I just got done with replacing my tensioner, chain, crank sprocket, chain guides and Vanos solenoid.
Car runs like new, no issues no codes. I have the cam tool that works on N12 and N14 motors if you are interested for $150, used once! I'll even send you copies of the Bentley instructions.

 

Thanks for the offer, but I have the cam locking tool and the Bentley service manual. I didn't buy the dummy chain tensioner at the advice of my local mini mechanic (who's name will go unmentioned here). I will try to find this tool locally tomorrow and try again...

 

Just wanted to stop in and say thank you to everyone filling in the Bently Publishers gaps in these posts! my 09 Clubman S is having some issues and I suspect it is the timing. I actually feel pretty confident I can't screw up the replacement having read the posts and getting the timing tools. Rock ON!!!

 

Be sure you don't miss the 2 step torque procedure (torque angle = 2nd step), and use the dummy tensioner to keep the vanos sprocket from rotating when tightening it.

 

Hi, From post #8 I see that the sides of the cam's timing lock downs should be parallel. So with the pistons at 90 deg BTDC a straight edge should lay flat across the tops of the cam lock downs, correct? I can easily make my own cam locking tool but have found my intake is about 4 deg late (not a whole tooth). I want to be sure that the tool should just have square sides and that there are not any odd angles at work, or is it just that even when using the dummy tensioner the intake normally sits back a few deg when everything is done. Thanks

 

Well I have finally got the chain, tensioner, and guides replaced after some issues. We twisted one of the guide bolts off into the block at under 30 nm torque! So be sure you get parts from good source! luckily the threads were not bottomed out so we could back the thread out with a screwdriver very carefully. But I do have a question. The Bentley manual is not very clear as to checking the timing. With going through the timing procedure with locking the crank and cams then tightening the exhaust sprocket then intake vanos. Then it says rotate 2 revolutions then check the lobes? checking the lobes is not very accurate. Are you supposed to put the cam locks back on and they fit perfectly?? because when we did the rotations the exhaust cam was perfect but the intake may have been half a degree off the cam lock only went on partially?? and now I am having an issue with when I accelerate hard then at about 40 mph let off the gas very fast it give me the limp home light but no codes and no loose of power????

 

I had my intake a few degrees early and had no warning lights or noticeable performance loss. Have you tried an OBD2 diagnostic like Bavarian Technic, or an app like torque? Also if the battery is disconnected the computer loses some memory and it will take a bit to readjust the settings. Hmmm clubman s right, at the shift the turbo diverter valve or a vacuum line could be acting up. could you check the cam lock tool are the sides square to the bottom as I think? I've timed other engines where the timing marks were pretty vague, or once the belt or chain were on it would always be a little off, with no real problems, but getting it exact is best. Without the exact engine blue print specs, it will take some dial gauges to map the whole timing out.

 

Well I have tried a scan tool purchased from AutoZone and have a scangauge the Bavarian technic says its not compatible with 09 minis. Both show no codes. Unfortunately the cam lock tool is not completely square with the head. The car is running great except for when I let off the gas pedal completely. It is very weird. Wouldn't the vanos compensate for a slight difference in timing?

 

On single VANOS engines, I believe the amount of adjustment is limited to 6 deg. I am not sure if any extra adjustability is built in to account for variations in initial timing. Perhaps someone has all the relevant specs specific to the n14 but sadly this basic information is not in the Bently manual. I was able to find this info from Cat Cams regarding the cams

The Cat Cams BMW MINI R56 profiles carry the following technical specification:-


Part no Duration Duration Max Valve Lift Description
@ 0.1 mm+cl @ 1.0 mm+cl
1302601 242 / 242 200 / 200 9.25 / 9.25 mm Fast Road Sport

In comparison to the factory BMW MINI Cooper S profiles:-
Part no Duration Duration Max Valve Lift Description
@ 0.1 mm+cl @ 1.0 mm+cl
R56 S 237 / 240 190 / 195 9.0 / 9.0 mm OEM Cooper S

They also have a good section on setting cam timing. As to the warning light I think there must be a code perhaps it is BMW specific and not general OBD2. The single Vanos is supposedly targeted at specific rpm ranges so if you still think its timing related perhaps trying a new cam sensor. Beyond that the Vanos unit is a bit pricey if your not sure its it. I have found the techs at my mini dealer very helpful so I buy a few small things and talk to them when I get really stuck.

 

Another person bringing up a dead thread here. I just completed the timing chain replacement job. Well, sort of I guess. I hooked everything back up, torqued everything back down but I'm having a problem now. After this whole job is done do I need to flash the ecu or set something. I tried to start the car and heard a click and then a few lights came on. The display showed a gear with an "!" And then just an "!". I did have the battery unhooked for over a week while I sourced parts and the whole 9 yards.

Does anyone know if I need to reset something or have any idea as to what I did that isn't quite kosher?

 

Is the motor turning over at all? After doing the timing chain on mine it wouldn't start. It would turn over but wouldn't start. I kept cranking it about 10 minutes with quite a few breaks to not over work the starter but it finally fired up. It was very rough. I'm assuming it is die to the computer not recognizing the correct timing. It shouldn't matter but I pumped the gas pedal the last 3 or so tries. Shouldn't help considering most vehicles won't throttle up with the fly by wire gas pedal at start. But its worth a shot.

 

It's not even cranking it's just a single click when I push start and then lights. I guess today after work I'll stop by autozone and get a scan tool.

 

the single click sounds like it might be a dead battery. Might try charging the batt. A good scan tool should be able to tell you how many volts the battery has.

 

You know what? I actually got all doom and gloom about it figuring the worst and didn't even think to just throw my charger on the battery.

 

Great thread. I'm in the middle of a Cam Chain switch due to my Freeze Plug blowing out. With 77k, since I have the top end open, I'm putting in a new Cam Chain Kit.

 

Hi folks! I'm new member. I have been lurking for long time. I am in the middle of changing my timing chain on my 2007 base mini cooper. Since this thread is brought back to life by someone else, i thought I will ask my question here. I bought cam lock tool. I can't figure out where the crank lock pin supposed to go in. Can some one point me in the right direction please?

 

It's on the Driver's side of the Engine, Outside of the Exaust Header Flex Pipe, On the Flywheel housing. About 4 inches up and in the center of the housing.
3/4" diameter hole.

I bought the tool to do mine too.

The locking tool I have has a Parkerized finish which prevented it from going in the hole. I needed to sand off 1/64" of it's surface to get it to go in.

 

OK. Thanks for the reply, I think I found the hole, but the pin does not fit. I got my tool on eBay. I'm gonna try sanding to reduce the diameter of the pin.

 

Once I sanded off the black finish, it fit in very snugly.

 

Well I got the new chain/ tensioner everything on. Put everything back together now the car wouldn't start. It cranks, cranks and cranks but no start. I pulled a plug out plenty of fuel on it. Cranked with plug out and saw spark. No codes with obd2 scanner. I'm stumped. If anyone got any idea please help, I need my car running by Tuesday so I can go to work.

 

When my timing chain assembly was replaced last year the tech told me he had to set the cam timing/Vanos because when you have a stretched chain the timing is going to be off a bit with a new chain.