I may want to replace the valve springs on my 09 JCW. Does anyone here think I can get the camshafts out with the sprockets still attached? The reason is I can't lock the flywheel in place because the one I put in does not have the hole. It may not be the best way but IS it possible to to this?

Thanks in advance- Ray

 

If you have the camshaft locking tool then you should be able to remove the cam sprockets without locking the flywheel. Of course you would have to take care that the flywheel does not move.

I'm not sure about removing the tensioner and then trying to get the chain off the sprockets. I think it would be close but I never tried doing that. Guessing I would say no but I could be wrong.

 

Firstly, why are you wanting to replace your valve springs ?

It is possible to remove the camshafts with the sprockets still attached, you will need to remove the chain tensioner, to do this!

You will have to be so so very careful, when attempting this unorthodox procedure, you'll also need to assume, that your engines timing is correct, before any work is carried out, as you now have no way of determining this crucial fact!

 

Hi czar. I'm wanting to replace the valve springs because springs are now available that are good to 9000 rpm at 25psi. The engine is timed correctly now. I was hoping to do this in car without pulling the engine. And yes it is definetly unorthodox. After the springs are in the next step is the GT28 turbo.

Ray

 

Hello Ray,

If you can't pin your flywheel to determine 90º BTDC how did you determine 90º BTDC ? Did you use a degree wheel or a lift indicator ?

So you'll soon have your springs, that are capable of withstanding compression coil bind/float, all the way to 9000rpm, what other valve train components are/have you changed to work/withstand this 9000rpm, whilst still being able to supply duration power, all the way to 9000rpm ?

What have or are you going to do, regarding the ever decreasing, timed opening fuel window, with piston mean speed ?

How will your stock crankshaft cope with the harmonics, all the way to 9000rpm ?

And haven't I and others advised you NOT to use the GT28 turbo ? I and others have advised you, against this, for a very good reason! study the compressor map of a GT28 and you'll see the obvious.

Don't get me wrong, I (and others) are not against what your doing, that said, I am trying to get you to think! About your engine build, before spending your hard earned $$$.

 

Hi, thought you might be able to give some insight...

I am currently experiencing this

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ault-code.html

Could it be the timing is not done properly?

My gut instinct says so...currently all adaptations including multiplicative have been set back to factory values.....

I am not sure if my shop have been entirely honest with me when they insist that they have used the special tools to set up the timing....

With your expertise, what are the possiblities?

 

And I thought mines was the only car to have the chain guide broken...

The plastic pieces fell into the sump, jammed up the oil pump.

 

I hope someone can help! I removed the head on a 2008 mini clubman S model (N14 Motor) due to a bad head gasket, had the head machined and we are reinstalling we used a 1.20 mm head gasket and new bolts all around. After locking cams and crank in time we reinstalled the cam spockets being sure to have any slack to the tensioner side and all looks good. after unlocking cam and crank we turned the crank with a scocket to verify we were good and Ive noticed the the length of timing chain between the two sprokets slacks when the crank is turned when the cam lobes release the compressed valve springs , is this normal? I Belive the tensioner will remove all slack once there is some oil pressure getting to it..we have double and triplechecked the time and it stays in time but I want to see if you have any insite before I finish. Thanks for taking your time

 

We just did my 09 JCW and yes it sounds like you did it right. I assume you had someone press on the chain where the tensioner goes before you tightened all the bolts. If so you should be good. Feel free to call me at the shop. Lang's Auto Service, Downers Grove, IL. Google it for the number. Ray or Tim

 

When I rebuilt my engine I did the following, not sure if it is the correct procedure but it has worked.

Locked the crank and cams with timing tool.
Put the sprockets on the two cams but did not completely tighten, left them where they would turn.

Put the chain on with no slack between the two cams.
Put the tensioner in and tightened.
Tightened the bolts on the two cams.
Removed the locking tool.

 

thanks it cranked right up!

 

Thanks!

 

Be sure you are installing the latest (updated) tensioner.

 

Seems like a good spot to pose this question. I just had an independent shop work on my timing chain, When I took it in to them it sounding like I had rocks in my engine. Got car back a few days later. Sound wise problem fixed. Performance wise. Totally blows. Took car back to them and the replace the crankshaft sensor. Still now performance under 2000 RPM. Also gas mileage went way down.
I am taking car back to them this week, so that they can take another look at it.

I guess my main question is could they have messed up my timing so that I have next to no power in the low RPM range and so so power in high range.

This id My first car with TURBO so i could be mistaking my power above 2000 RPM just the boost kicking in.

ANY answers will help.

 

It would be difficult to replace the chain and not have the timing tool. You need to find out if they replaced or removed the chain. From your description it sounds like you had the common timing chain and tensioner problem. If the performance is less then something is wrong which could be the timing on one or both cams.

 

Jacknk,
They did not replace the chain, I was told that the chain is still within "tolerance", that was shop managers words. The bill just states that the
Timing Guide - $18.00
Timing Chain Tensioner - $44.00
& Valve Cover Gasket set - $39.95 where replaced that was done on first trip to shop.

Took car back less then a week later;The check engine light came on the night before I had it scheduled to go back to them. They said that they ran a diagnostic tool to check codes and had code for intake Cam Sensor, it was replaced for $79.00. Ran a little better but still not right. Called them yesterday, to tell them still not right. I will be taking it back to them tomorrow or Friday.

Having said all of that do you think I need to have them go back in and check the timing on both cams. Don't want to be charged if they R&R again to find nothing internally wrong.

 

I would think that if they did not remove the chain the timing would be OK. It is possible one of the sprockets could have slipped but I wouldn't think that is likely, but I am not an expert on this either. Hopefully they can find the problem somewhere else.

 

I'm thinking the chain is off. Ask them if they have the right tools to lock the crank and cams in place. One CANNOT wing this. The labor to replace the chain is in excess of 11 hrs. If they did the job right it usually costs $1500 to replace the chain, bolts, guides, and tensioner. All that needs to be done. I did this job on my 09 6 months ago. My opinion there are few people outside the dealer that are competent at this job.


Ray

 

Thanks Ray,

My bill was half that, thought I was lucky getting out of there with just a little over $700 spent. I will ask them when I take it back to them.

 

Tell them to check vacuum hoses.

 

Yeah. The wastegate hose might be disconnected. But I think that might through a check engine light.

 

To jacknk

Will do that most definitely.

 

Thanks everyone. I am about to tackle this job myself.

 

Ok so I'm reviving this old thread. I'm a new member (sorry first post I'll get the hang of it and introduce myself soon). I'm trying to replace head gasket on my mini using Bentley's service manual. It says secure crankshaft in 90 degree piston position. How exactly do I do this and what does it mean? Step by step please as this is the only step I'm having trouble understanding. I'm waiting on the tool kit to arrive as we speak. I don't want to mess this up. Thank you.

 

Read reply #11 in this thread. When the locking pin goes into the flywheel the pistons will be at the proper position.