1st post here, so don't flame me... I did some searching, but couldn't find anything on this specific topic.

I bought a used Mini a few months ago at a steal of a price because it had some know issues (oil leaks, brakes). It was right around 100,000 miles. Fixed all that stuff right away but then the clutch went out. It was the original clutch, I thought 100,000 miles... not bad for a Mini. I tore it apart and yup, the clutch disk was wore out and the flywheel was burned. No big deal, replace both of those, but now the 'steal' was getting expensive. 3 weeks later, the clutch is out again. It is not my first rodeo, so i'm pretty sure i didn't mess anything up with the installation.

Here is my question. What could cause this type of instant failure? The 1st clutch never gave me any signs of slipping or anything, it just went out one day when the wife was driving it. Same story on the 2nd one, I drove it on Tuesday, no issues... she drove it Thursday and it had to be towed home.

Before you blame the common denominator here (I know I did at first) she has been driving stick shift cars for years, I taught her one night 20 years ago so she could drive to work the next day. 94 Escort, 96 Ranger, 91 Mazda 626, 04 Cavalier, 06 Colorado, 91 MR2, 92 BMW 325i, 11 Cruze, 12 Cruze. Never burnt up a clutch before, but now 2 of them in 6 weeks?

I did not replace the Master or Slave cylinder, is it possible that the slave is getting 'stuck' and keeping the clutch disk just off the flywheel? I will be tearing into this thing for the 3rd time shortly, I probably don't even need to bag and tag the parts because I'm becoming so familiar putting it into service mode. Anything i should be on the lookout for?

Thanks!

 

What is the problem? "clutch is out..." doesn't tell us much.
Are you able to shift into gear?

I had problem with my first clutch change. I was so concerned about the alignment, I failed to torque the pressure plate bolts ... oops!

 

I think the disk is gone. I can shift into any gear, just no go when you release the clutch. The car smelled like a burnt clutch when i got there yo pickup the wife. I am pretty sure it was slipping, but why would it go out that fast, without any signs 2 days before?

 

Greetings. Just done mine too. There is not much in there to go wrong. You could have a sticking release bearing (the tube it rides on could have been damaged before you changed it), The arm could be damaged, bent or the clip fallen out. Lastly there was some problem with the way it was installed or the friction plate is faulty. You won't know until you take it out again and nobody here can really say either. Please report back when you get the box out. Oh, and doubt the slave has anything to do with it, no reports of sticking ones.

 

Once you remove the transmission, take a lot of high resolution pictures of the pressure plate (before you remove it), the clutch disk (with pressure plate removed), flywheel, clutch release fork lever, pressure pin, guide tube, release bearing, and post them.

Questions based on your initial post: 1. How are you cleaning the transmission input shaft splines, and are you using the supplied lubricant after cleaning?

 

 

For a clutch to go that quickly, bet you find oil on the disk. Most likely from the transmission seal.

 

 

Well guys, i finally got around to looking at this car again. Good news and bad news. It looks like the drivers side CV Shaft didn't fully seat on reassembly. It is no longer engagued. I have it out right now as the boots both ripped. I will get a replacement today and put it all back together. What type of LSD do we have in these things? If it is a clutch type, I hope it didn't smoke that by spinning only one side.

The clutch kit came from Detroit Tuned if i remember correctly, it was just the LUK stock replacement kit and new Dual Mass Flywheel. I did replace the crank seal while I was that far into the car. I did clean everything and lube the Trans input spline with provided grease.

 

Almost guaranteed it's an open diff. The JCW has an e-diff which is really just the ABS computer grabbing the brakes on the spinning wheel. You could option the earlier gen2 cars with a factory gear-type (torsen) diff.

Also... if you have to pull the trans again. Putting the car in service mode is unnecessary.

 

We sell a lot of Valeo units, so iI bet that is what you got. Quality parts. Let us know if we can help! Chad

 

You can get the subframe out without moving the radiator forward? Whats the trick, not that i hope to ever do it again. Twice is enough for me, although it was pretty simple the 2nd time.

 

It will drop right out with a little wiggling to get the front part of the subframe past the bumper and other bits up there.

 

Do you leave the Strut Assembly up in there? There is the arm that attaches up in that area that seemed to want to come straight down, not much clearance to go rearwards with it.

 

Yes front suspension stays in. Once the subframe is all unbolted tilt the rear down a bit and the whole thing should lower then shift back a tiny bit to clear the front bumper stuff. It's not that hard.