Or enough replaced motor's, those aren't cheap. I guess it's lucky that the failed motor's that I'd read about happened withing the warrenty period.

 

That is the part that worries me the most. What is going to happen to those engines down the road when they are out of warranty? Good thing this problem affects new MINI's with almost no mileage. Maybe BMW will find a fix that works before the engines are trashed.

As of right now there is no way I'd own a prince engined MINI. Maybe after the fix is found, but certainly not now.

 

I can say with 100% certainty that this has happened twice so far to me since having taking delivery in August 2008, Car has 6K on it now. Both times it happened after I started it up and ran it to just move the car around briefly and (not allowing it to come to full operating temp.) Then, upon starting it again the next day the bad sound happened. Chatter sound for about 3, 4 minutes along with less engine power.

 

But how was the car idling, smooth? like mine, no lights or codes? next time it rattles check yr. rpms, should be rock-steady at normal idle what is it 800-900? rpm.

 

Hmmm, any chance of posting a link to that thread? I'd love to see that.

 

See POST 1022. It gives the BMW PuMA number, but not the text of the memo.

 

something very interesting-- possible catastrophic engine failure due to a seized vacuum pump:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...e-failure.html

Wasnt this component fingered as a possible culprit in the cold start rattle?

 

Schmoopy I had the exact same thing happen. I moved my car yesterday from the driveway into the garage. Then tonight after it sat for one day, I started it up and well we all know the sound. No CEL's, RPM stayed constant, and other than the "sound" everything else seemed fine. I haven't ever had this problem and needless to say I was ticked off, that my MCS is now "one of those!"

 

just want to throw my .02 in here...

got the tensioner update done to my car, that seemed to solve the problem, for a few days.

Now i get the rattle at approximately 1.5k rpms, which the dealership told me is a whole different issue, which they have a fix for as well.

Car's in right now, getting that fixed up, I'll report back.

I've also had the startup sputter issue too, got that being checked out as well.

 

hey dwf Im a finalist for a peach fed gov job there in Seattle, and am curious: how's that Tacoma dealer's service end? Im kinda spoiled here in Denver with my dealer, they are simply awesome!

 

my car has been to the dealership 3 times so far.

first was because I had a local tire shop incorrectly install my valve stems... the dealership tightened everything up for free, including the flat bed tow down there.

second, was my first trip in for the cold start rattle. They gave me no problem and said they would fix it, no need to keep it over night and try to re-produce the noise or anything.

This third time, same thing, they acknowledged my issues, and said they would fix them.

Today is day two of this trip, third total in the shop for the cold start rattle, and I've had a loaner every day so far, no questions asked. All they ask is that you fill up the gas tank before dropping it back off.

so far, pretty good customer service. The drive from Seattle kinda sucks, as it's 45 mins on a pretty busy 4 lane highway, but i've heard rumors that they want to open a second dealership in the seattle area.

 

i'm not sure if everyone else has figured it out but that is the common thing. cold start engine. move car very short distance, kill engine and restart several hours later. get rattle. Weather temp doesn't really matter.

you want to repeat it for the dealer to hear? park it at dealer in the early morning. ~ 12-1pm start engine, move very short distance across parking lot, kill engine. start it up just before dealership closes with service advisor present.

 

There's the problem for me... I have a 3.5 hour drive to the dealership.

 

While this certainly may work I just want to point out that this is not the ONLY occasion that causes the rattle...

 

parking nose-down also causes it.

 

got my car back after they replaced the tensioner...

now when i engage/disengage the clutch in first gear i hear a thunk sound..

sometimes at idle, i hear ticking now.

 

MINIspud, I think/hope your clicking noise is just the injectors. But I got nothing for the clutch clunking esp if they didn't touch it.

 

why would messing with my cam chain tensioner start making my injectors tick?

I was low on gas at the time.... related?


im not a techie.. so the tensioner is not related to the clutch plates?

 

Cam chain and tensioner is on the front of the engine while the clutch is on the back.

 

Not at all.

 

The turbo version of the Prince engine used in the MCS uses a "direct injection" fuel delivery system, which like a diesel engine, squirts gas directly into the combustion chamber vice the intake manifold of conventional injection designs. Due to the high compression ratios, the MINI injectors are of a much more robust design, and hence noiser. You can indeed clearly hear them ticking away at idle. Especially when you're not longer listening to the timing chain clattering away ...

The mechanics do not go near the back side of the engine when replacing the timing chain tensioner. They do however remove the right front tire and inner fender liner for access to the front of the engine. Check your right front tire lug nuts properly tightened to 103 ft lbs torque. Your clunk could be a loose wheel.

 

thanks for the info everyone I am always learning.

Ok, I wont worry about the ticking at idle.

However, i find it extremely strange that the clutch plates are acting this way, especially if the repair had nothing to do with the same area.

I should preface this with that i am one of those people who HEAR every rattle, buzz, thunk, and chunk that happens in every car I sit in. I dont know why, but that stuff gets under my skin easily.

That being said, i KNOW my car very well. The sound i hear when i engage/disengage the clutch seems to come from the left side. It also sounds like it is from the rear of the hood, and not close to the front. Which would jive with what yubman said.

I also hear the noise if i accelerate in first or second, and then quickly let off the gas. No break applied, just RPM's to slow down the car. Eg hear it at slower speeds.

It is a definite clunk sound, and I kinda feel it in the clutch pedal as well.
I am now more bothered about this since the cam chain part had nothing to do with it.

The only other things being fixed at the time were the hot sunroof opening issue and window dipper on the passenger side not working right.

The sunroof being adjusted and software being installed to repair the windows are even MORE unrelated.


boo!

 

^i have a noise that happens at similar times, but not necessarily a "clunk"

I think it all has to do with the dual mass flywheel. Do some research into it and you'll see why it might be what is making the noise. I'm not sure it's necessary on our cars, they're typically used on diesels. I can't wait to wear my clutch out so I have an excuse to replace that flywheel with a regular one.


Well my cold start chatter has been "fixed" with the tensioner update, but I still have a chatter at about 1500 rpms which sounds similar, but isn't necessarily the same.

Dealer is ordering me something for the vanos system, not sure on the details, I was in the middle of something when they called. I know vanos is the bmw valve timing system, so maybe there was some damage to it from the cold start?

w/e... getting the work done once the part comes in. Till then, I'll be parking on flat ground..

 

FYI: http://tech.bentleypublishers.com/th...81852&tstart=0

 

That's cool, has anyone here tried this yet?