Drivetrain Resonator and 2nd Cat Delete - CM4

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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 04:23 PM
  #176  
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Might want to call Will - he's on the road a lot, but he should be able to fill you in.

(305) 903-2684

They've done a dozen or so R60s after mine was the test mule. Everything's worked out very well without any issues (thus far).

I believe they sell a lot of the parts shipped now, whereas it used to be you needed to go down there. I'm sure it's still that way for some of it, but I've not looked into it in a while.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2014 | 12:46 PM
  #177  
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Originally Posted by bmwr606
the milltek exhaust i installed is 63.5mm (~2.5") from the v-band clamp all the way back to the inlet side of the 100mm (~3.9") tips, eliminating the sub 2" neckdowns completely

it eliminates both the second cat and resonator

the rear muffler looks similar to the stock muffler, but weighs less and you can see straight thru it ... it mounts exactly as the oem muffler

it is a little louder than stock at steady speed, but not enough to make conversation difficult and the tone is lower

at WOT it is quite a bit louder than stock, but still not loud enough to attract negative attention ... it sounds like a proper sports car

the pop/burrble is also louder and more pronounced

as for the performance side, the turbo spools much faster than the stock system ... at 1,800 - 2,000 rpm, flooring the gas, the car leaps forward like it did at 2,800 with the stock system

at any rpm, flooring the gas results in instant power

THERE IS NO DRONE AT ANY STEADY RPM/GEAR COMBINATION

for $1250 (i paid $1200) it is more expensive, but it is more than a cosmetic sound increase, there is a performance gain and i expect that will carry thru when i get a tune also (my tyrol FMIC is enroute as i write this ..
(thanks Hujan for the group buy on the R60 customized tyrol FMIC)

install was very easy, took less than 2 hours, including jacking the car (my first time putting the car on jack stands ... that alone took about 45 cautious minutes)

after the car was on stands, remove the cross braces that run under the exhaust, remove the v-band clamp, remove the 2 nuts on the front exhaust mounts, slide the rubber rear hangers off and remove the stock system in 1 piece

i assembled the milltek on the ground but did not tighten the clamps

hang the rear muffler using the stock rubber hangers, install the nuts back on the front mount but do not tighten yet and finally reinstall the v-band clamp but do not tighten yet

reinstall the cross-braces and tighten them

now jiggle / twist / adjust the system checking for clearance and then tighten the clamps ... i started with the v-band and worked back in stages EDIT last tighten the front mounting nuts

i used a 3/8" rachet to tighten the clamps ... it was not enough, i needed to retighten using a 1/2" ratchet

the system did move the first couple of heat cycles and needed to be retightened / readjusted ... CAUTION ... IT GET VERY HOT ... ALL THE WAY BACK TO THE TIPS!

link to picassa album of the installed milltek system

https://picasaweb.google.com/1043068...eat=directlink

any other question ... feel free to ask

scott
Hey Scott,
I've been going round and round on this exhaust question , I pretty much decided on the Milltek I can get it installed all in for $1350 , my question for you is on the Milltek site they are calling it a cat back exhaust and it appears to be the only one suitable for a stock(no tune) setup, is this what you have?
 
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Old Mar 26, 2014 | 12:48 PM
  #178  
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Originally Posted by Theta
Might want to call Will - he's on the road a lot, but he should be able to fill you in.

(305) 903-2684

They've done a dozen or so R60s after mine was the test mule. Everything's worked out very well without any issues (thus far).

I believe they sell a lot of the parts shipped now, whereas it used to be you needed to go down there. I'm sure it's still that way for some of it, but I've not looked into it in a while.
Cool thanks man, i will call him. i plan on keeping my car for a long long time
 
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Old Mar 26, 2014 | 12:56 PM
  #179  
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Originally Posted by Elmj
Hey Scott,
I've been going round and round on this exhaust question , I pretty much decided on the Milltek I can get it installed all in for $1350 , my question for you is on the Milltek site they are calling it a cat back exhaust and it appears to be the only one suitable for a stock(no tune) setup, is this what you have?
yes, i believe so ... the downpipe is the cat

in this pic, on the left, you can see the post cat or downstream O2 sensor ... the v-band clamp is at the end of the downpipe, everything back from there is milltek

 
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Old Mar 26, 2014 | 01:29 PM
  #180  
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Ok , I get it now, thanks for the help

Originally Posted by bmwr606
yes, i believe so ... the downpipe is the cat

in this pic, on the left, you can see the post cat or downstream O2 sensor ... the v-band clamp is at the end of the downpipe, everything back from there is milltek

 
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Old Apr 25, 2014 | 09:46 AM
  #181  
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dont want to start a new thread but Theta, can you tell me how much the group4 tune costs and if they do mail ins like NM-Eng? i dont want to call and bother them for an inquiry, and there is nothing on their site for the r60.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2014 | 09:55 AM
  #182  
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Honestly, calling them is the best bet - there's been a lot of development in the last year, and they may have new options for tuning, etc.

I'm sure they won't see it as a bother, especially when you're interested in finding out more info.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2014 | 02:46 PM
  #183  
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Originally Posted by Theta
Just as an FYI, any increase (perceived or actual) will come from the removal of the 2nd cat.

I'm a huge proponent of ditching the stock system in every way, but on the dyno with heavy tuning in several different situations, the N18 doesn't gain a thing from swapping the downpipe, let alone the factory exhaust, until after 240whp.

On the JCW with the 2.5", there's no restriction until over 300whp.

This is still a sound-centric mod in every way/shape/form. This coming from the guy who has spent thousands on downpipes, exhausts, and prototypes of everything in between. The N18 just doesn't care much until we get it breathing better at the front-end.
At the risk of sounding thick , what are your recommendations to get the N18
"breathing easier at the front end"
 
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Old Apr 25, 2014 | 04:12 PM
  #184  
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As a complete novice when it comes to exhaust systems, I have a few questions for those in the know (some of which are slightly off topic):

1) If I ordered my car, would the second cat still have been installed? I've heard yes and no from a few sources (unknown reliability). I don't have lifts to look under the car nor would I know what I'm looking for.

2) I'm seriously considering the JCW exhaust for my All4 (I like the idea of keeping full warranty in tact and Sewell has it at a pretty good price). Are there any HP gains from the system? I haven't been able to find any info.

3) The intent of the upgrade is both for sound as well as performance, so maybe something along the lines of the NM system is better (I haven't been able to find any good audio of a broken in system).

Thanks for the help.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2014 | 04:23 PM
  #185  
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Originally Posted by etidd01
As a complete novice when it comes to exhaust systems, I have a few questions for those in the know (some of which are slightly off topic):

1) If I ordered my car, would the second cat still have been installed? I've heard yes and no from a few sources (unknown reliability). I don't have lifts to look under the car nor would I know what I'm looking for.

2) I'm seriously considering the JCW exhaust for my All4 (I like the idea of keeping full warranty in tact and Sewell has it at a pretty good price). Are there any HP gains from the system? I haven't been able to find any info.

3) The intent of the upgrade is both for sound as well as performance, so maybe something along the lines of the NM system is better (I haven't been able to find any good audio of a broken in system).

Thanks for the help.
From everything I've read and heard, the Milltek is more what your looking for , but it seems from the post from Theta that any of these exhaust upgrades are purely for sound until you get the "front end breathing easier" , I've asked him to explain as this is beyond me, to me making it sound better is cool but a bit hokey if there's no performance added
 
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Old Apr 25, 2014 | 04:43 PM
  #186  
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Read that as well. Wonder if what he really meant was 'more noticeable ' gains since most companies claim at least some HP (which seems logical).
 
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Old Apr 25, 2014 | 04:54 PM
  #187  
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Originally Posted by etidd01
Read that as well. Wonder if what he really meant was 'more noticeable ' gains since most companies claim at least some HP (which seems logical).
I know what you mean, most companies are claiming HP gains but I believe the feeling is that any of the exhaust systems that can make a legitimate claim remove the second cat, as I said I don't know much about this , and it would seem to me if that's the case a short pipe that replaces the Second Cat and Resonator would be an economical fix , except there's very little pipe to work with in front of the Second cat.
 
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Old May 3, 2014 | 07:13 AM
  #188  
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Theta,

How do I disable the ABS system without jacking everything else up? I am doing some rallycross and want the ABS and DSC disabled.

Thanks!
Shane
 
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Old May 3, 2014 | 08:40 AM
  #189  
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Originally Posted by Elmj
From everything I've read and heard, the Milltek is more what your looking for , but it seems from the post from Theta that any of these exhaust upgrades are purely for sound until you get the "front end breathing easier" , I've asked him to explain as this is beyond me, to me making it sound better is cool but a bit hokey if there's no performance added
i have the milltek DP back exhaust ... it eliminates both the second cat and resonator, as well as the restrictive stock flexpipe

it is 2.5 inch from the DP back, unlike the stock system that necks down to about 2 inches at the flex pipe and the 2nd cat and the resonator

this is the only engine mod i have done so far

i have not dynoed my car, but i have done roll-ons with an identical 2012 all4 and in a 3rd gear pull from 1500 to 6000 rpm, i was 5 car lengths ahead at 6000 rpm ... similar results in 4th and 5th

so peaK power increase is unknown, but there is a major increase in low and midrange

i have a scan gauge and the car makes over 11 psi of boost at 1800 rpm now where it had to be at about 2500 to get the same amount of boost with the stock system
 
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Old May 3, 2014 | 08:47 AM
  #190  
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Originally Posted by inclinelongboards
Theta,

How do I disable the ABS system without jacking everything else up? I am doing some rallycross and want the ABS and DSC disabled.

Thanks!
Shane
as far as i know and have heard, you can turn off the DSC and TRACTION, but ABS is always on
 
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Old May 3, 2014 | 12:51 PM
  #191  
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I tried some stuff out. ABS can be disabled by pulling any of the 3 ABS fuses, but it also disables the All4 so it kind of defeats the purpose.
 
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Old May 17, 2014 | 03:17 PM
  #192  
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Originally Posted by Elmj
I know what you mean, most companies are claiming HP gains but I believe the feeling is that any of the exhaust systems that can make a legitimate claim remove the second cat, as I said I don't know much about this , and it would seem to me if that's the case a short pipe that replaces the Second Cat and Resonator would be an economical fix , except there's very little pipe to work with in front of the Second cat.
the major restriction is the stock flex pipe it is between 1-7/8 to 2 inch id

any exhaust mods that do not replace the stock flex pipe may make a nice sound, but dio not expect any power

i installed a milltek downpipe back exhaust, by examination, the flex pipe that comes with the milltek is 2.5 inch id

compared to a similarly equipped all4, i picked up 5+ car lengths from 1500-4500 rpm in a 3rd gear rollon ...

before the exhaust change we were axel to axel doing a rollon
 
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Old May 17, 2014 | 03:35 PM
  #193  
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Originally Posted by bmwr606
the major restriction is the stock flex pipe it is between 1-7/8 to 2 inch id

any exhaust mods that do not replace the stock flex pipe may make a nice sound, but dio not expect any power
This is 100% correct.
 
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Old May 25, 2014 | 07:53 AM
  #194  
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I ran my car in a local rallycross yesterday. The only modifications are the resonator and second cat delete and 16x6.5 et20 wheels with 205/60r16 snow tires. I beat a few Subarus and it was a lot of fun!
 
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Old May 25, 2014 | 08:55 AM
  #195  
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@inclinelongboards

i am using 205/70R16 dunlop grandtrek sj6 winters on my all4

dunlop rate them as an all-terrain studless ice and snow tire

you may want to try a set of them

they are available in smaller sizes than the 205/70, but i was looking for the biggest tire that would fit for extra winter ground clearance


 

Last edited by bmwr606; May 26, 2014 at 09:44 PM.
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Old May 26, 2014 | 08:48 PM
  #196  
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What would you guys recommend to get a little more low end torque in second gear? I was also thinking about a front strut bar to aid in steering for rallycross.
 
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Old May 26, 2014 | 09:25 PM
  #197  
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Originally Posted by inclinelongboards
What would you guys recommend to get a little more low end torque in second gear? I was also thinking about a front strut bar to aid in steering for rallycross.
Tune or a downpipe. Possibly a hot-side smooth pipe (pipe muffler delete).
 
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Old May 28, 2014 | 08:56 AM
  #198  
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Originally Posted by Theta
Tune or a downpipe. Possibly a hot-side smooth pipe (pipe muffler delete).
Got any recommendations for a hot-side smooth pipe I can buy?
 
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Old May 28, 2014 | 09:13 AM
  #199  
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I have an M7 silicone pipe that I prototyped for them from my first R60 still sitting here. More than happy to sell it to you cheap - JCWs come with the smooth pipe, so there's actually gains to be had with it.

Send me a PM if you're interested. I'll snap a couple pics. It's a direct fit.
 
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Old May 28, 2014 | 12:41 PM
  #200  
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Originally Posted by inclinelongboards
What would you guys recommend to get a little more low end torque in second gear? I was also thinking about a front strut bar to aid in steering for rallycross.
i just installed the MARS front upper strut bar from outmotoring .... all i can say is WOW!

the steering no longer binds up in hard corners ... i did not realize it did until after the install

the tires do not squeal until a much higher speed (michelin pilot super sports) and going by the wear pattern, they are not rolling over as much

mid-corner bumps send much less feedback to the steering

1 huge gotcha ... the longer bolts sent in the kit are strength DIN 4.8, the OEM bolts are DIN 8.8 ... i sourced my own DIN 8.8 bolts ... i checked the torque with the dealer ... supposed to be standard DIN spec for the bolt size, the 8.8 spec is 18.5 foot/pounds and the DIN 4.8 bolts are only rated for 11 foot/pounds

http://www.outmotoring.com/mars-fron...n-paceman.html
 
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