Hello guys,

I have a Mini Cooper S R56 LCI from 2012.

I had the following problem: the car died while driving in the city and I wasn’t able to start it again. So I checked the fuel pump and realized that there was no voltage coming from the white/blue cable to the fuel pump. So the fuel pump wasn’t running.

Then I tried to bypass the fuel pump relay K96 which is mounted directly into the junction box on the right side of the car in the foot are.

I realized the bypass as following:
- Pin 87 goes to the white/blue cable from jbe plug X11010, the cable ends in the in tank fuel pump in the back of the car, it delivers power to it
- Pin 30 goes to the fuse F46 which transfers power, there is only power when the ignition is on
- Pin 86 goes to the red/yellow/black cable of the cigarette lighter from jbe plug X11003
- Pin 85 goes to body mass, mounted it on a screw which directly screws into the metal of the car

So after installing that the car ran pretty good and fired up directly like nothing happened be-fore. I was happy and thought that I fixed the problem. But after maybe 30km the half yellow engine light came on and I got two error codes:
- P0001
- P0003

After diagnosing that with a cheap obd II scanner I had a look at the circuit diagram again. I realized that I maybe have to change something, maybe there is an error. I looked at the dia-gram for the relay K96, which is the fuel pump relay I wanted to bypass. The diagram shows the following:

- Pin 30 gets instant power from the fuse F46
-> no difference to my bypass
- Pin 85 gets body mass from the dme from a purple/green cable in plug X11008
-> different to my bypass
- Pin 87 delivers the power tot he white/blue cable from the fuel pump in plug X11010
-> no difference to my bypass
- Pin 86 gets a power signal from the relay I01068, the relay sits in the middle oft the jbe and can get depluged by hand
-> different to my bypass

So I think that maybe here is the problem which results in showing some error codes. I would like to test the following:

- connect Pin 85 from the external relay to the green/purple wire from Pin X10008 to get a trig-gered mass signal directly from the dme (instead of hanging it directly onto the metal)
- I wouldn’t change the power delivery to Pin 86, I think that it wont make any difference be-tween getting power from a relay or from the cigarette lighter

I have the following questions:
1. Does anything speak against my plan changing the control of the Pin 85 and connect it di-rectly to the cable that comes from the dme?
2. Is it right that the dme delivers a mass signal to the relay K96 to Pin 85?
3. Is it right that the relay I01068 delivers a power signal to the relay K96 to Pin 86?
4. Is it right that the dme triggers a mass signal to the relay K96 which the activates the relay so that it closes to get power from Pin 30 to Pin 87 so that the fuel pump will run?
So that would mean that only the dme controls the relay K96 alone by giving a mass signal or not?

After changing the bypass relay to my suggested plan the external relay should work exactly like the original K96 fuel pump relay would do? Am I right?

I listed three pictures oft he circuit diagrams I got my infos from.
Hopefully someone can help me.
If there are any questions please feel free to ask me.

Thanks a lot!
Greetings

 

Both of those error codes are related to the flow control valve in the high pressure fuel pump.
I think it's a lost cause to try bypassing the relay for the low pressure pump. I would suggest deleting your bypass, install the relay, clear the codes and see if they come back again.
If they come back,check the wiring between the control valve and the DME. If it's good, then you probably need to replace the high pressure pump.

 

Hello,
Thanks for your reply.
The problem is that the relay k96, which ist the fuel pump relay, is broken. It isnt working anymore.

Thats why I decided to bypass it with an external relay. The relay k96 is soldered directly to the jbe. It cant be switched without taking the whole jbe in its parts.

The other Option would be replacing it with a new one which costs about 400€ or buying a used one with the same article number. Both wouldnt be that easy.

The car is running with the bypass. Its starting again. So the bypass solved my no crank no start problem. The bypass itself should be correct.

The question is if it would be possible to finalize the circuit wiring in the case I mentioned in my previous post.

 

@Bumme56 Did you ever get confirmation on the potential approach for the re-wire? Also, which relay did you use for the external bypass? Any other updates? There's a national back-order on the MINI JBE so this solution may be very helpful to many right now. Thanks for the detailed write-up too!

 

Hello,
sorry for the lateness.
Yes, it works since today pretty fine. No error.
Perfect

I took a pretty cheap 12V 40A standard car relais with 4 pins. Nothing special. Like this:



Greetings Form Germany

 

Is there an easier or at least a "dummy" way to do this for those of us who may not be as mechanically inclined. Same issues and I have sent this box to an outside circuit place 2 times and going on a 3rd time in 18 months. Can't find anyone that can just relocate the relay outside of the fuse.

 

Hello,
I online know the way I described before. But it definetily works until today. Never had any issue since then.

You just need to open the fuse box cover in the passenger footwell. Everything happens there. You need a Power source twice and tap of two wires. And the 4 pins or cables of the relay match to one of the four cables.

That's all. So, I think you could do it yourself.
if you need Fürther help or photos just let me know.

I hope that you get your car running again! That is a rallye cheap fix ... maybe 10 bucks.

Greetings from Germany

 

If you have pics that would be awesome. Sorry to trouble you but appreciate the help.

 

1. Cable colours and relais setting (2x power, 1x ground, 1x fuel pump)
2. Power Source for the relais (left from fuse 14, used a fuse tap, the fuse place was empty in my case ... but you can use other fuse numbers as well as long as they can handle the power, took a green 30amp fuse like original, you can also use the original place (fuse 46 in my case) and tap of power there, but in my case the cover in the footwell didnt fit, so I needed to tap a fuse further inside the fuse box)
3. Wiring diagram (PIN 87 - blue white cable, PIN 85 = purple green wire, PIN 30 and PIN 86 = power from a fuse or for testing power from a car battery)




Hello,
Maybe these pictures and infos help. Hope you can take them to solve the case. For further help or photos just tell me. I will do all I can.

Hope that you get your car running. Please tell me if you had succes. Would be really happy if that would be the case.

In my car everything works fine since then, no trouble, no error code, no fuse popped ... nothing. The relay is wired like original from MINI ... just outside the fuse board. And all the safety features are working fine (in case of a crash the fuel pump doesnt get any power, so no fuel gets pumped in an emergency, because the DME doesnt send a ground signal to PIN 85). Means that the car cant burn because of the fuel pump delivering fuel until the tank is empty. The fuel is without power, so stops working when there is a crash or when the engine is off or even when the car is locked and parked. So it even wont drain the battery as well.

In my eyes its better than original.
Fingers crossed and Bye

 

Awesome and final question did you have to remove the old relay or open up the fuse box?

 

Hello,
no there is no need. I would pull the fuse f46 to make sure that the relais of the board wont get any power anymore. But thats all. The old relais is laid dead. It doesnt interrupt the function of the new relais which is mounted outside.

Greets

 

Hello,
And ... how is it? Did you fix your car?

 

I have a mechanic that is going to take a look at it. I am about nervous to try it. But if he can't fix it I may give it a go..

 

Hello,
And? Any news? Car is running again?

 

fixed but had to send box off. Now same issue again.

 

Hi,
Just try my solution. It still works and car Paspasses the emission test here in gemany at the TÜV. I think thats a good propf that it works.

Greetings from Hamburg

 

I want to but unfortunately i cant read a schematic and while i am mechanically inclined i am not so much when it comes to the electrical. I know its simple just dont want to cut the wrong wires.

 

Hi,
You dont need to cut the wires. You can unplug them from the box and connect the end with the pin to the wire from the relay.

Or you can tap the two wire with a cable connector which gets pressed onto the wire. It presses to the cable and then you get a connection as well.

Bye

 

Got most of the parts. Will let you know how the fix goes when i do it. Much easier to understand the instructions when you have the pieces in your hands.

 

Sounds awesome. Yes, definitly. So wish you good luck. You make it

 

Why do all this extra work when repairing the relay mounted on the circuit board is super easy and cost about 6 dollars in total. All you need is a soldering iron and a pair of wire snips/cutters.

Heck id do it for free if i had your module.

 

I see what you are saying, however this has been my 2nd relay Failure this calendar year and my 4th since owning the car. Id rather do this extra work one time and have easy access to a very important relay than having to pull the entire box and either wait a week to ship and get it fixed or pull the whole thing apart and put it back together. This fix saves time and money.

 

Car is running. Thank you for the help. Ran into a couple issues and still have to tweak it a bit but running. I do have a check engine light but that has been on and off.

 

O. ....could you explain it from the very first wire with pictures