I’ve done some searching and saw a few threads from a few years ago discussing similar issues, and I guess I’m looking for an update or the latest thoughts on this issue.

Car just went over 100K, went into limp mode yesterday on my way home, but that cleared up before I got home. On my way in tonight it came back after about five minutes, later went out for about 20 seconds but came back on and have stayed on.

2009 Cooper S, I put a new valve cover, coil packs and spark plugs in about eight months ago.

I looked for the codes using the “Dash Command” app and a OBD2 scanner.

I hear that there are other applications That will let me find what they’re called hidden codes, any insight on which way to go with one of those would really be appreciated. I’m hoping I don’t have to either take it to a dealer, or pay the prices for something like Carly.

Thanks all.

 

Unfortunately, any generic code reader will not be able to pull the Mini specific DTC (diagnostic trouble codes) that get stored during these events. Where are you located? Maybe there is someone nearby that can help with pulling codes.

 

I’m on the Gulf coast of Florida, east of Pensacola, west of Panama City.

 

I’m not wanting to bet the farm here, but I would try to check your DV. Mine went into limp mode no codes when I lost mine. If I drove her easy with no boost, shifting at 3k, I was able to keep her out of limp mode and drive her the 300 miles back to Cincinnati. I knew that was what it was because it made a different noise when I shifted into third.

 

Not sure if this is indicative of anything, but the going into limp mode is in my case, very sporadic. It comes and goes. (I’m still driving it occasionally, my local independent BMW mechanic is out of town presently) Just today I drove 20 miles across town, no problem until the last mile or so, when I got the half-engine light and reduced power.

Does this make any particular part more suspect?

Just looking for ideas, until I can hopefully get a code or expert diagnosis.

 

After checking the diverter valve (DV) as recommended in an earlier post, Check the wastegate linkage on turbo and see if there's a lot of play. If so, replace the wastegate or get a new turbo. A "rattling" wastegate can cause intermittent limp mode.

 

I use OBDLINK MX+ Bluetooth dongle with the Obdlink app. In addition I have Bimmer Code and Bimmer Link. Between the B link and Obdlink I have been able to read and clear all codes on my 2011 R56. If you still haven't figured it out by this weekend we can meet up somewhere and I can pull the codes. Oh BTW I live in PCB so right down the road from Bruce.

 

As others said here if you plan on keeping you mini for any amount of time it's worth investing in a good scan tool that can read the mini specific codes. They will save you tons of time and at least give you a good clue as to what is going on. The Schwaben tool is on sale this week and has many advanced functions other than just scanning codes. I find it pulls the same exact codes that my ISTA+ laptop setup does without the hassle of getting the laptop out and setting everything all up. I usually will start with it unless I know I need to reprogram a module or something. I keep it in the pocket behind my driver seat in case I ever need to read a code quick. I am not affiliated in any way with Schwaben or ECS just posting the link for convenience to all. I have used it for years now and just upgraded it to use on my Land rover LR3 and it works great on that too. Well worth the money. Good luck, those limp modes can be frustrating. Check that wastegate linkage as
keduMINI said. At 100,000 miles I'm sure its seen better days. Could be closing OK sometimes and sometimes not giving you those intermittent codes. Let us know what you find.

BMW Scan Tool | Code Reader | OBD2 Diagnostic Tool - Schwaben by Foxwell (ecstuning.com)

 

First of all, thank you all for your inputs. With luck, it'll be one of the mentioned items, hopefully the DV, as that looks the easiest.

I haven't had a chance to really dig in yet, I work overnights, and that just doesn't lend itself to lots of free time, but I do have 3 day weekends, so will dig into it this weekend some.

keduMINI, thanks for the heads up on the wastegate/WG linkage angle. Hopefully the DV is the issue, because, easier. But good lead on other possibilities. (I see where removing/reinstalling the heatshield is a real fun time, so I'm hoping it isn't the WG/linkage.)

Minifenrir, I seriously appreciate the offer, and may still take you up on it, but at the moment I don't want to drive too much of a distance, (to be specific, I live in Niceville) and I took Jakomcbean's suggestion and ordered the Schwaben Tool. I'll probably have had a good look at the DV before it gets here, so who knows my status.

Jakomcbean, see above comment.

I'll update as I go, as I'm sure I'll probably have questions during the process, including hopefully whatever the final fix is.

Thanks again all.

 

So, I assume that this being in two parts is a problem?

 

that would be why.


This is what both versions should look like. ECS and Amazon are very close on their prices, just make sure if you use Amazon that you hunt for the mini part number.

 

This is mine that went on me 1/4 mile in on the Dragon. 1st and 2nd gear all goods, the shift into 3rd I heard the DV making some funny noises, and half engine light. If I kept it out of boost I could keep the half check engine light off, and yes I limped her back to Cincinnati. I’m running the newer version with Alta spring right now and carry the old version as a spare.