I do not have a mini yet. I'm interested in an 05-06 or 13+ Mini S. I've been looking around at what is available and have some questions. I'm sure the answers are all on this site already but I've been reading the past few weeks and it is all a bit mixed up.

I'm going to try and go look at a 2013 Mini Cooper S hardtop this week. It's at a dealership near me, just outside of Kansas City. It has around 45k miles. I will look at all the normal used car things and have done my own auto repair work for 30 years. (One reason I am even considering one of these cars).

What Mini specific issues am I looking for on this model year? Mainly concerned about issues that will require a full tear down of the front end. But, any info is appreciated.

This is the N18 motor so the cam chain and carbon buildup issues don't apply, right? Power steering pump/cooling fan? Clutch (do they still only last about 30k miles)? How long to the turbos last?

Thanks.

 

13+ is a good choice. Yes, far fewer problems with timing chain, carbon, etc. Manual clutch should last longer the 30k miles, depending on it's driven. We have a '12 MCS Auto, about 80k miles. Replaced a VANOS solenoid early on, the rest has been maintenance (Tires, brakes,battery, etc).

 

Check to see if it has the updated thermostat/thermohousing. Not sure if that applies to the 13's, but my 11 needed it. Replaced my vanos around 80k.

 

Thanks for the info. I hadn't seen any references to the VANOS system issue. I'll look up the information on that. I've dealt with the Honda version before. On the Honda it would have issues from lack of proper oil change intervals causing gunk to clog the system and running low enough on oil that the system would not operate properly.

 

Bought my 2013 used with 130k. It's now north of 150k and running like a champ. I did replace the timing chain, turbo and valve cover but everything else has been just normal maintenance items.

 

i just went through this 2 months ago and got the 2013 Mini Cooper S, 6 speed. and dont regret it for a second.
from alot of what i read, and was "warned" about, i would stay away from the N14 engines and stick with the N18 engines in the 2013 and newer. unless you have alot of money to put into the engine.
being we are both dealing with winter right now, i just went and got some Goodyear 205/55 R16 Tires (plus $50 rebate from discount tire, and $80 rebate from goodyear) and i am plowing through snow like nobodies business.

get the 13's if its in the price range you are looking for, but do your research on the VIN and make the dealer provide some service history if at all possible, explain that its a used car, you need to know whats been done to it, and you dont care about previous owners, you just want dates and what was done, see if they will do it, if they clam up and wont give you anything but the crappy vin report, tell them you can get that free on the internet too, you want a real report with service history.
if they clam up and get all skittish on you, walk away, thank them for their time, tell them that if they cant have confidence in what they are selling then neither can you. but take the vin and search all over, there are places you can find SOME history but not much.
otherwise take it to an independent mini mechanic and ask them to look it over. see what they think.
i am VERY happy with my '13, and will keep it for a long time, especially now that i have a garage full of upgrades, and a Mario ECU tune coming this spring.

 

Thanks for the info. I'm going to look at a '13 tomorrow that has low mileage.

There is an independent Mini/BMW shop near me. I had a long talk with them today regarding the different Mini options and possible costs for repairs. It was a good talk with a lot of information. Much more open and helpful than what I expected. They probably started salivating when I said I'm looking to buy a Mini.

This would be a second car as I already have an Expedition for bad weather driving. But, it's getting on in mileage and since I almost always drive alone I'd rather save it for bad weather and have something smaller for everyday.

 

The N18 engine has started delivery in 2011.... to my knowledge.

 

Be sure to take a look at the 2nd Gen FAQ's above. The N18's have a better reputation than the N14's - result of more development time. N14's are fine when maintained, but that takes time and $$....and most N14's on the market will not have a documented maintenance history, so they will be suspect.

 

I went to look at the 2013 by me. It has 43k miles, all the normal used car things check out (everything works and nothing is falling off of it or leaking) and no accident history. It was owned by a military guy (or more likely his wife). And, unknown to the dealer the one previous owner had all of his maintenance docs in the glove box. It has a list of all the oil changes at 5-10k intervals (I wish they were all at 5k but one of them might be missing as there was only one 10k interval). Two trim pieces came loose and were replaced. The plugs were done. An airbox hose was replaced. The thermostat and housing were replaced. And, just two months ago new Bridgstone runflat tires were put on.

The car looks as close to perfect to me as is possible. So, I bought it and will be picking it up tomorrow.

 

If you don't mind me asking, how much did you pay, I picked up a 2012 "S" just shy of 50K in miles for $8,750.00 on the 5th of this month, mine also is very solid.

 

A little over 10k. Sounds like you got a good deal.

 

Nice find. As someone who does all my own maintenance as well, no matter how deep into the motor/trans it is, my 2014 N18 has been a great ownership experience.

Bought at 7,500 miles.
FMIC/Down pipe/JB+/1 range colder plugs at 8,000.
New tires at 25,000 (mostly because the runflats are garbage).
New front HP+ pads at 30,000 (again, for better performance, OEM pads were at 1/2 life still).
Bigger turbo at 32,000.
MAF replaced at 32,500.
​​​​​Now at 35,000.

Had the rear suspension apart last weekend installing a JCW sway bar and all bushings/seals/items look new still.

The MAF is the only repair/issue I've had, burns no oil, PCV line is bone dry inside, car runs perfectly no leaks. I AutoX it, drive it hard in the mountains, and commute and it's never missed a beat.

First suggestion, pull the white locating pins on the top of the front struts and gain the -0.5 degrees of camber, it really helps the cornering without any wear issues.

 

Thanks for the info. I'll have to look up the white locating pins. I hadn't heard of that. Does this effect tire wear much?

 

Congrats! Pics or it never happened !

 

If anything it improves and evens wear out. The bone stock alignment has the tires nearly flat with precious little camber gain during compression, so while cornering the car is using the outside shoulder too much.

Really I think 1-1.5 negative up front is the right street spec, but, they needed to keep the car understeer biased for the masses so...

 

2013 MCS in Reef Blue Metallic. I resized this down some, but I don't know if it is small enough to display correctly.

 

very nice! Just like my 2012 👍

 

Thanks. I really like the color. Doesn't look too "boy racer" so it fits my age better.

The window sticker says the Reef Blue Metallic is a $1,000.00 option. I assume any color costs that. But, it seems steep.

 

 

Yes. I plan to keep a close eye on that. Fortunately, I also have an independent BMW/Mini repair shop about 6 blocks from where I live. That's who spent time on the phone with me prior to the purchase answering questions and possible issues to look for and costs for possible future repairs. Seems like a good place. We'll see. I'm sure it'll need something soon enough.