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R56 Replaced valve cover, still experiencing issues

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Old Jun 2, 2016 | 05:14 PM
  #1  
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Replaced valve cover, still experiencing issues

Hey guys! I drive a 2010 Mini Cooper S. I had been experiencing several issues over a short period of time:

- Engine sputtering during stops or slow drives
- The ignition was taking a long time to start the car. It was trying to start for several seconds longer than it should take.
- The vehicle began accelerating pretty slowly from a stop
- Check engine light was coming on and off, then stayed on

I brought my mini in to the dealer to have it diagnosed. They checked it out and told me that the valve cover needed replacing as well as a hose (I believe the pcv hose), and it would cost me $1000. I looked into it and had no problems replacing the valve cover myself for a third the price. The PCV hose and valve looked to be just fine and I didn't bother replacing them.

The valve cover and everything inside it pretty unknown to me but I didn't really see any major issues. The cover was not cracked. The only real issue was that the gasket was not really attached any longer but it didnt look warped, only melted a bit in 2 corners.

Here is an album of the old cover and everything inside.


I've only test driven it for about 30 minutes but the first thing I noticed is that the vehicle is still taking too long to start up. On this drive I never noticed any of the sputtering but that may be a fluke. Occasionally there wouldn't be sputtering (but mostly there was). It is also still accelerating slowly. Also, the engine light is still on but that may just need to be reset I am not sure.

I also just this week used the air conditioning for the first time since the problem began and there is a noticeable drop in acceleration from a stop when using the air. The vehicle accelerates very very slowly, you can put the petal to the floor for a second or two before it really picks up.

Mini offered no other suggestion and because I am out of warranty I really do not want to bring it back for another $120 diagnosis since their first one didn't correct the issue. Is there something else obvious that I need to look into?
 
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Old Jun 2, 2016 | 05:51 PM
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AZdsrt
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Miles? Have intake valves been walnut blasted? Also, post the CEL code..
 
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Old Jun 2, 2016 | 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by AZdsrt
Miles? Have intake valves been walnut blasted? Also, post the CEL code..
It's at about 60k miles. I am pretty positive the valves have never been walnut blasted. I haven't been able to get to a scanner tonight after the cover replacement to see if there is any change in the codes, but the codes I had been getting were:

p1497
p1338
p2188
 
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Old Jun 2, 2016 | 06:20 PM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by DontCountToday
Hey guys! I drive a 2010 Mini Cooper S. I had been experiencing several issues over a short period of time: - Engine sputtering during stops or slow drives - The ignition was taking a long time to start the car. It was trying to start for several seconds longer than it should take. - The vehicle began accelerating pretty slowly from a stop - Check engine light was coming on and off, then stayed on I brought my mini in to the dealer to have it diagnosed. They checked it out and told me that the valve cover needed replacing as well as a hose (I believe the pcv hose), and it would cost me $1000. I looked into it and had no problems replacing the valve cover myself for a third the price. The PCV hose and valve looked to be just fine and I didn't bother replacing them. The valve cover and everything inside it pretty unknown to me but I didn't really see any major issues. The cover was not cracked. The only real issue was that the gasket was not really attached any longer but it didnt look warped, only melted a bit in 2 corners. Here is an album of the old cover and everything inside. I've only test driven it for about 30 minutes but the first thing I noticed is that the vehicle is still taking too long to start up. On this drive I never noticed any of the sputtering but that may be a fluke. Occasionally there wouldn't be sputtering (but mostly there was). It is also still accelerating slowly. Also, the engine light is still on but that may just need to be reset I am not sure. I also just this week used the air conditioning for the first time since the problem began and there is a noticeable drop in acceleration from a stop when using the air. The vehicle accelerates very very slowly, you can put the petal to the floor for a second or two before it really picks up. Mini offered no other suggestion and because I am out of warranty I really do not want to bring it back for another $120 diagnosis since their first one didn't correct the issue. Is there something else obvious that I need to look


into?
Sounds like a HPFP going out.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2016 | 07:11 PM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by timski
Sounds like a HPFP going out.
From what I've read up on HPFP symptoms I do not think this to be the case.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2016 | 07:17 PM
  #6  
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yeh sounds a lot like hpfp
 
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Old Jun 2, 2016 | 07:21 PM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by DontCountToday
From what I've read up on HPFP symptoms I do not think this to be the case.
Taking a long time to start is one of the
big indicators of a HPFP. Of course it could
be plugs....coils....etc.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2016 | 07:24 PM
  #8  
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From: Eau Claire WI
P1338 Camshaft Position Sensor bank 1 open circuit or short to positive.

P1497 Downstream throttle air leak

p2188 to rich at idle
 
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Old Jun 6, 2016 | 08:46 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by DontCountToday
Hey guys! I drive a 2010 Mini Cooper S. I had been experiencing several issues over a short period of time:

- Engine sputtering during stops or slow drives
- The ignition was taking a long time to start the car. It was trying to start for several seconds longer than it should take.
- The vehicle began accelerating pretty slowly from a stop
- Check engine light was coming on and off, then stayed on

I brought my mini in to the dealer to have it diagnosed. They checked it out and told me that the valve cover needed replacing as well as a hose (I believe the pcv hose), and it would cost me $1000. I looked into it and had no problems replacing the valve cover myself for a third the price. The PCV hose and valve looked to be just fine and I didn't bother replacing them.

The valve cover and everything inside it pretty unknown to me but I didn't really see any major issues. The cover was not cracked. The only real issue was that the gasket was not really attached any longer but it didnt look warped, only melted a bit in 2 corners.

Here is an album of the old cover and everything inside.


I've only test driven it for about 30 minutes but the first thing I noticed is that the vehicle is still taking too long to start up. On this drive I never noticed any of the sputtering but that may be a fluke. Occasionally there wouldn't be sputtering (but mostly there was). It is also still accelerating slowly. Also, the engine light is still on but that may just need to be reset I am not sure.

I also just this week used the air conditioning for the first time since the problem began and there is a noticeable drop in acceleration from a stop when using the air. The vehicle accelerates very very slowly, you can put the petal to the floor for a second or two before it really picks up.

Mini offered no other suggestion and because I am out of warranty I really do not want to bring it back for another $120 diagnosis since their first one didn't correct the issue. Is there something else obvious that I need to look into?
I am having the same issue with taking too long to start. I am about to replace the fuel filter, I did some research and apparently a dirty fuel filter may cause such symptom.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2016 | 01:33 AM
  #10  
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From: Eau Claire WI
Originally Posted by lemarzmini
I am having the same issue with taking too long to start. I am about to replace the fuel filter, I did some research and apparently a dirty fuel filter may cause such symptom.
yeh it could be fuel filter' but i would say hpfp! dont even need to look at it to know! just by you saying it takes a long time before it start's! is the first clue'
what happen's is there a check vavle that holds the fuel in the pump! that check vavle will go bad and it allows the fuel to drains back into the tank! then when you go to start it it has to push all the fuel back tho the line's
 
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Old Jun 7, 2016 | 08:44 PM
  #11  
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I would say based on the dtc's you posted you need to START OFF with a camshaft position sensor.... That may cause extended cranking since it is what syncs up injection with ignition. those orher two codes could potentially be related if the ecm is seeing too much fuel because of bad synchronicity.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2016 | 10:36 AM
  #12  
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What a nightmare. I decided to replace the crankshaft/pvc hose that Mini had suggested be replaced along with the valve cover, just so when I brought it in to be diagnosed again they wouldn't say this was the issue. $30 and no problems installing it, I bring it in.

I spoke with the intake guy and a mechanic explaining the car symptoms. I asked if it sounds like the HPFP to them because it does to me. They both said it definitely sounds like that and I said OK I would like that looked into.

Just got a call from Mini. They said that the computer indicates a vacuum leak so they did a smoke test and could not locate any leaks anywhere. That took up all my diagnostic time. They would now like to investigate the timing belt (which was just replaced 15k miles ago unbelievably) and the timing of a couple other things (pistons I think...and something else). That would bring my diag fees to about $500.

I dont know what to do. Am I in the right to call Miniusa to issue a conpalint? I would be embarrassed to make a big scene and it not actually be the HFPF but I feel it is absurd they didn't look into it at all. Suggestions?
I was speechless. I asked if they investigated the HPFP at all and he said that the codes didn't indicate a problem with that so it is working fine. What the ****.

So I already would have been out 1k if I let them do the valve cover work. That would have fixed nothing. Then another $500 today to probably find nothing. If its the HFPF and mini won't cover it for me, I'm out another ~2k?? Jesus Christ.

I was hoping they would determine it's the HFPF and like other people hope to have the luck that Mini covers the replacement even though I just fall out of extended warranty period (2010 vehicles not covered)..
 
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Old Jun 8, 2016 | 11:01 AM
  #13  
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Stay away from the stealership.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2016 | 01:08 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by timski
Stay away from the stealership.
The problem is that if it is the HFPF my only hope of not having to shell out 2k or do it myself for 1k, is to go through the dealership.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2016 | 04:40 PM
  #15  
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Back from Mini. It was explained to me basically that the codes I got from my OBDII scanner aren't specific enough and that Mini's scanner did not lead them to a fault in the HPFP so that is why they didnt check it at all. I got a printout this time of the fault codes they got, here:

2786 - M12 05 07 - "Service engine soon light is on with Faults 2786 or 2B5B stored"
I read that 2786 means "Additional mixture adaption"

On my diag sheet they indicated that the fault code was for "unmetered air and mixture adaptations" or an Evac Leak. The smoke test found no leak. So they then decided that they want to test the timing of the cams and pistons, and the timing chain for an additional $200.

I refused it based on the fact that the same codes earlier this year indicated both from my scanner diagnostics and Mini cooper led Mini to recommend the valve cover and hose be replaced. I brought this up, and that just 21k miles ago they already changed the timing chain, and they just shrugged basically. A quick search of the new code seems to indicate it can still be the HPFP, or maybe a temperature sensor if I'm exceedingly lucky but I doubt it.

I don't know what to do, except take it out of the hands of Mini. I am going to find another mechanic in the area experienced with Mini, bring all this info to them and see what they think. If I get a recommended HPFP I am calling MiniUSA about the flagrant disregard to my concerns at the dealer.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2016 | 05:43 PM
  #16  
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Sound's like a typical dealership ! i think i would just keep bitching! never endeing Battle ! if you was to order the hpfp from like ecs or somthing your looking at 1400 ' you need to replace's both fuel line's they are a must ' cuz when you remove the on line that go's to the tank it will never seal right after that! pretty easy job but will take a afternoon for youre first time!
 

Last edited by BigBoost; Jun 8, 2016 at 05:52 PM.
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Old Jun 8, 2016 | 06:27 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by BigBoost
Sound's like a typical dealership ! i think i would just keep bitching! never endeing Battle ! if you was to order the hpfp from like ecs or somthing your looking at 1400 ' you need to replace's both fuel line's they are a must ' cuz when you remove the on line that go's to the tank it will never seal right after that! pretty easy job but will take a afternoon for youre first time!
If I get confirmation from another mechanic that the problem is indeed the HFPF, I will be calling MiniUSA to issue a major complaint that the dealer specifically neglected to check what I brought it in for and what I was told would be checked, and wanted to run further costly and likely useless tests. I would hope they would honor the extended warranty on the part at that point.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2016 | 07:02 PM
  #18  
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mini does not considerer it as a warranty thing! the dealer needs to look at the TSB" witch in there world it's two different things! my buddy just had to go tho the same or deal! one of the biggist problem' is that the hpfp will not throw a code' and they will not even look at it if it doesn't throw a code!!! its kind of a never endeding game with them!
 
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Old Jun 8, 2016 | 07:04 PM
  #19  
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my buddy want tho ever thing you did! changed cover' tested this tested that! and afterer a week of being in the shop ' they had finely caved and replaced it! and guess what it was the pump!
 
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Old Jun 9, 2016 | 03:34 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by BigBoost
my buddy want tho ever thing you did! changed cover' tested this tested that! and afterer a week of being in the shop ' they had finely caved and replaced it! and guess what it was the pump!
Maybe he was under warranty or maybe he has the money to blow. I can't afford to leave it at Mini for countless diagnostic tests until they finally decide to try the pump.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2016 | 05:46 AM
  #21  
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The first dealer we took it to was motor works in St. Paul Minneapolis ! and they gave us the same ******** story that you're going through ! want to change that then wanted to do this! and he told him no keep in mind he has a 07 mcs
so I made a few phone calls and I got a hold of the mini dealer in Madison Wisconsin . and chatted with the tech supervisor and explained what was going on ! so long store shorty i ended up trailering the car down to Madison Wisconsin buddy payed 125 dollars for the diagnostic fee ! when ever thing was done and sad new pump in for 125 bucks and the cost of me trailering it down!

its your dealer witch is sad ! i would complain to mini USA about it
 
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Old Jun 9, 2016 | 09:50 PM
  #22  
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Sounds like the dealer has incompetent techs and/or is trying to milk you out of your money. Find a good independent and have him diagnose the hpfp.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2016 | 12:11 AM
  #23  
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My car had all these symptoms a few months back. 4 days after I bought it. Cel on with reduced power. No codes. Then I lost all boost while I was trying to figure it out. I took it to mini when I got a free diagnostic coupon on the mail. Turns out the boost control valve that I had removed and inspected, and replaced spring in was bad. After that I got the boost back but still in reduced power mode. No codes ever. So I bit the bullet and pulled the intake off. The valves were so coked I'm not sure how the car even ran. Walnut blasted and car ran perfect. Now......I changed the oil this weekend. Nothing out of the ordinary except for a weird aftermarket drain plug that needed replacing. After the oil change.... The car smokes like a freight train at idle. The entire back of the car is covered with oil. Cel back with reduced power mode. No relevant codes. I'm thinking I need a new valve cover or a turbo...... And a dual catch can setup. It's a never ending battle to own one of these cars...
 
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