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Alright so i have a 2010 mcs with about 40k miles on it. I installed a forge motorsports BOV and a k&n intake and had no problems with the car at all. Recently I attempted to install a cnt racing catless downpipe and ended up putting the stock one back on because the cnt downpipe didnt fit properly. Now my car is throwing a half filled CEL at me and is running extremely low boost. I checked the OBD2 and there were no codes but the evaporative system monitor wasnt passing under emissions. There are no exhaust leaks and the o2 sensors are fine and the car has a brand new battery. Im not sure what the problem is because i have heard many different things. If anyone knows or has had a similar experience your feedback would be great, thanks!
Last edited by CooperH; Jan 7, 2016 at 08:03 PM.
Reason: Forgot a part
The light you're describing sounds like a reduced power indicator and you were in limp mode. If you think there is something wrong with the Forge unit give them a call. Otherwise, you'll definitely want to find out what codes are present in the system.
The light you're describing sounds like a reduced power indicator and you were in limp mode. If you think there is something wrong with the Forge unit give them a call. Otherwise, you'll definitely want to find out what codes are present in the system.
Im not sure why my forge bov would already be having problems. Ive only had it on the car for like 3 and a half months. I just started having this problem ever since i tried replacing the downpipe
It looks like for P2885 it could be your DV stuck in the open position as noted above. I'd maybe take it off and inspect it just to be sure. Otherwise, I've seen a few instances point to the turbo as the issue. Check out this thread HERE and HERE.
It looks like for P2885 it could be your DV stuck in the open position as noted above. I'd maybe take it off and inspect it just to be sure. Otherwise, I've seen a few instances point to the turbo as the issue. Check out this thread HERE and HERE.
No thats not it. I already took it off to look. I even re-lubed it. I checked all the vacuum lines and they are all fine. Im not exactly sure what it is now
No thats not it. I already took it off to look. I even re-lubed it. I checked all the vacuum lines and they are all fine. Im not exactly sure what it is now
If the DV is working as it is supposed to then chances are that it is the wastegate which is integral to the turbo.
All of the cars I've ever replaced the pressure converters on were due to the diaphragm tearing and sounding like a duck call when the car was shut down, never because of conversion failure. It is a simple solenoid, not much other than the diaphragm to fail.
Do you hear a slight rattle from the turbo area on startup? Most cars that have a worn wastegate have a rattle either at startup or constant rattle at idle.
The 2AD2 code won't cause limp mode issues, that is all due to the 2885 code.
If the DV is working as it is supposed to then chances are that it is the wastegate which is integral to the turbo.
All of the cars I've ever replaced the pressure converters on were due to the diaphragm tearing and sounding like a duck call when the car was shut down, never because of conversion failure. It is a simple solenoid, not much other than the diaphragm to fail.
Do you hear a slight rattle from the turbo area on startup? Most cars that have a worn wastegate have a rattle either at startup or constant rattle at idle.
The 2AD2 code won't cause limp mode issues, that is all due to the 2885 code.
Yes!!! My car makes a duck call sounds and it does make a rattle sound too when i start it up
Yes!!! My car makes a duck call sounds and it does make a rattle sound too when i start it up
If you have the duck call sound then you need the wastegate solenoid replaced. You will also want to inspect the rubber vacuum lines to the solenoid, as the PCV from the manifold leaks oil over time and saturates the vacuum lines causing them to swell and lose fitment to the solenoid, which can and will also cause boost deviance.
Let us know if you need more help on the diagnostic, I just did this work on a car the dealer quoted a turbo on. From $3,800 to $137 and a car that had about 40 more horsepower on the butt dyno.
The rattle you hear, if it is from the turbo area is the wastegate. It'll progressively get worse and cause underboost issues at that point you'll need a turbo.
