Hello,

I just bought an 07 Mini Base R56 automatic with 80,000 miles a few months ago. I've never loved a car so much, but I'm afraid I bit off more than I can chew... Last month I had to replace the whole timing kit (cost me $4000).

Due to delays in ordering parts, I just got the car back. It was running great the first week I got it back but now I'm starting to have problems again. The car intermittently acts like it's losing power during idle and while I'm driving. I'll be driving and the car jerks and I can seem to get it to go faster. It never dies though. When I'm idling, the car jerks back and forth. It also downshifts roughly in sport mode when I stop, but I've always had that problem since I bought the car. I'm not sure if that's normal.

I live in Wisconsin and it's summer time right now so it's not a cold issue. It started a few days ago and then stopped. I drove the car two hours away and back yesterday and I never had a problem. Today, I drove it to my doctors appointment and I started having the issue again on the way home.
The only change in my car care routine is that I have been filling up at a BP gas station rather than the Mobil I normally fill at. However, I am still putting high octane fuel in it.

Could I have a fuel pump issue?

If anyone could help, that would be great! I really don't want to sell the car but if I keep having major issues I'll have no choice.
Thanks in advance!

 

From what you describe Sounds like crankshaft sensor symptoms they usually get worse over time and when the car warms up,easy and cheap fix best to get a diagnostic done first tho man as my 07 cooper has very similar issues and they have gotten worse over time to the point of the car stalling sometimes at traffic lights,still havent managed to solve it yet.....

 

Had a similar problem. Turned out the wiring to the controller at the front of the auto trans had corroded and needed to be spliced and soldered.

 

Update: I filled my car up with Kwik Trip 93 octant no ethanol fuel and it got better for a few days. Then it started happening intermittently a couple days ago. Today, it did it constantly... So I ruled out the "bad fuel" hypothesis..

My husband is going to take a look at it tonight and see if he can find anything I am overlooking..

I should point out that this has never happened with a cold start. Usually it happens after I've driven the car and when it's hot outside. For example, today I drove to a job interview. It was fine. When I drove to the grocery store and back home it did it constantly. I'm not sure if that's coincidence or not but I thought I'd point it out.

Also, the shaking during idle has become more frequent. Now it will shake for a couple seconds, stop for a couple more, start again, and so on... It feels like somebody is actually outside the car rocking it back and forth.. The issues while driving were a lot worse today also. The car didn't have that "get up and go" like it usually does and seems to struggle getting up to speed between 30 and 50. Could the mechanics have screwed something up when they changed the timing chain and tensioners? Is this consistent with the sensor? It feels like the car is going to die but it never does.. I go to college 45 minutes away and I'm now scared every time I take it on the highway.

Thanks for all the help.

 

One more question... Does this sound like a transmission issue? Because if it is, I'm just going to get rid of the car.. I'm assuming it's not since it happens during idle but my mechanical knowledge is obviously not that strong so I thought I would ask.

 

Hi sorry to hear of your problems sure is annoying as hell.....There are loads of things that could cause the symptoms you describe,crank sensor,cam sensors,vanos clogged,indeed timing off a tooth,MAP/MAF sensor,incorrect fuel pressure..etc...etc....lol i've been thru all of those and my cooper still does the same as you describe altho when i changed the cam and crank sensors it runs fine now above idle........best thing to do is get it scanned on a diagnostic computer see what codes it's throwing up otherwise your just guessing........even with diagnostics i still cannot get mine perfect.....lol.....funny enough i did read an article today in a BMW technical bulletin for their mechanics that mentioned bad idle and rough running being either....fuel pressure......cam belt......or......clogged injectors thats what i'll be looking at next lol good luck keep us informed

 

Cant see it being a transmission issue sounds to me like the gearbox ecu is just struggling to match gears with the varing engine speed/misfire/surges when your driving besides if its doing it at idle in neutral then that pretty much eliminates the gearbox......

 

Thanks for all the help. I noticed today that I am leaking oil out of the gaskets. I'm confused about this because I'm pretty sure the mechanics were suppose to replace that when they replaced the timing chain. Or maybe they didn't follow the correct bolt patter? Either way, that needs to be fixed...

I also noticed that my oil smells like gasoline.. I know that this is never a good thing.. Do you think whatever caused this is the reason I've been having these issues?

Looks like it's going to take a trip back to the shop Monday...

 

If it's leaking oil it may be entering the plug sockets causing a misfire heard of a few people having this problem with a leaking or warped rocker cover,pull your plugs and have a look at the tip for oil,also oil smelling of gas may just be an indication of the cylinder running rich,check for gas on the plug tips also,my wee ****** is the same still running badly and misfiring when warm now I've got a whole other headache with software coding lol.........crazy stuff........... I'm still convinced it's an engine problem myself I'll let you know how I get on.........btw did you get a diagnostic scan done ? shouldn't cost too much or you could buy a basic launch code reader for about $50 also a compression test and leak down test will help narrow it down notice I said help........I did all this and am still having problems.........having said all that I've saved myself a fortune in garage fees as they will only do the same stuff you could do yourself and charge $$$$$$$$$$$ for with the same results...........I spoke to BMW and they told me that they cannot guarantee 100% they could find the cause of the bad idle/misfire during diagnostics ...........like yea right thanks but no thanks lol

 

Sorry to hear of your troubles, are you getting and codes or CELs (check engine lights) on your instruments cluster? Do the symptoms happen with the transmission in Neutral? In all honesty you've bought someone else's problems. In general I believe it's mostly a bad idea to buy a Mini Cooper S R56 2007-2010, most of the time the person having trouble with a Mini Cooper tends to trade it in for a newer model because they don't want the headache anymore.

 

I had what sounds like a very similar problem. Was intermittent juddering, fine one day, I'd stop for something and it would start juddering and running like it needed a good service. I found that if I shut the engine off at a stop sign or set of traffic lights and restarted the engine it would stop for a while. 1 mechanic said 1 diagnosis & another said another completely different. Mini of Manhattan couldn't recreate the problem (but still charged me!!)
I went online and read or heard about dirty injectors and poor fuel. So I bought a can of Seafoam and put 1/2 in my gas tank and the other half in the air intake in the engine. Google seafoam a Mini Cooper and the full instructions are available with videos on YouTube.
I did the treatment , my engine SEL light went off and it's been running fine for about 2months now. I only use premium fuel too.

 

Thanks for all the replies. I empathize with those of you going through the same headache!

Systemlord, my car is just a base not an S. But I see your point regardless.. trading in for a new model would be much easier on the wallet in the long run I bet.. especially with a warranty...I'd love to get my hands on a new coupe S. :P

I finally took it to the shop to run some diagnostics. They did it for free since I had just handed them $4000 to replace the timing chain. Oil was leaking out of the valve cover gaskets so they're replacing that at no charge since they had just installed a new one when they did my chain.

As far as the other issues I have been having, they have a couple ideas. My CEL lights were not on but it still threw out a misfire code (not sure of the exact code at the moment). They think it could either be a carbon build up issue or a bad MAF sensor. They're going to look into it more once they take it apart on Monday to replace the gasket. I'm hoping it's something cheap since I've only had this car for 3 months... Crossing my fingers!

But hey, you're not actually part of the mini club until you've shelled out a few grand in repairs, right? lol

 

If you were charged $4000 a crime has been committed, it's called fraud! I only paid $1600 dollars at my dealer to replace my timing chain components.

 

Yes..I did not want to tell her that before. But now that you mention it - up to $2,000 is what a dealer will charge for the timing chain. $4,000 is a bit pricy.

The good news is that used MINIs hold their value...offload it now and wash your hands of it.

If you're going to keep it you may want to seriously consider buying a code reader so you can analyze the check engine lights on your own.

 

There is a slight possibility that job could cost that much, and that is if they replaced the Vanos hubs, and possibly the engine oil pump. I have seen a Chain top guides fail and jam the oil pick-up screen with a lot of debris. If that's the case it is strongly recommended that it be replaced, as there is no saying what type of damage could have been done from oil starvation.

Mini-Monster,
Have you been using your A/C a lot lately? The fact that you say it will shudder at idle and then go away, and then shudder some more would make me think it may be in relation to the application of the A/c compressor clutch. If there is a problem beginning internally inside the a/c compressor, it can also cause a lack of power feeling, along with shuddering while driving.A/c draws a lot of power from the engine, and when it is faulty can draw even more. If it is still at the shop the techs there should be able to correlate the shake with the engagement of the a/c compressor(If that's the case). And also ask them politely to reverify the work while they have the valve cover off to replace the gasket. It doesn't take much to slap on the timing tools just to have a quick check and rule that out.

Fault codes help alot, so if you can get them post them. Also, can you relate any noise to the issue you are having?

Hope this help's, I love my mini and enjoy working on it myself. I know some are not a fortunate as me, but hearing someone threatening ridding themselves of their mini because of expensive issues pains me.dthtrp

 

Really?!?! It wasn't quite $4,000..it was $3,700 after tax. Close enough.

Is $2,000 for both tensioners and the chain?? I got it all replaced.

I called my closest MINI dealer (which is 2.5 hours away) and ran that quote by them and they said it sounded about right. They said their service would likely run about $500 cheaper. Since I couldn't drive the car 2.5 hours with a messed up chain I had to pay the extra $500... Not to mention my mechanic bought the timing assembly directly from that dealership...hhmmm...

Mini_Wisconsin, my husband and I are placing an order for a code reader asap.

I've become quite attached despite its issues (probably not the best choice but I can't help it). Studying the mechanics and anatomy of the car wouldn't be a bad idea either I suppose... Prior to owning this car I had a 2000 Ford escort ZX2. This MINI is a completely different animal...I bought it after my escort reached the end of its run in hopes that the MINI would get me through the rest of my college years (med student - 4 years down, 4 more to go). Call me stubborn, but I'm determined to make that happen. lol

I'll post an update on Monday!

 

dthtrp, it's interesting that you mention the AC.. I noticed that this issues seems to ony happen on hot days... I assumed that either heat had something to do with it or it was just a coincidence..but those are also the days I use the AC on full blast... I'll test this theory over the weekend and get back to you.

The car is not at the shop anymore. I have it over the weekend but it goes back Monday for the gasket fix. I'm certainly going to ask them to re-check their work. I'll also post the codes as soon as I have them.

I have not been able to associate any noise to issues. I did notice a subtle whine coming from the engine at idle. It's so faint but can be heard if you listen carefully. Other than that, I haven't heard anything strange. Nothing obvious anyway.

Thanks!

 

There is no excuse, your Mini dealer charged you more than their supposed to even by their books! Mini sets the standards for how many hours to charge for a particular job, they were dishonest and overcharged you. My insurance paid $1900 dollars for labor to remove the transmission from the engine and installed a new flywheel and new clutch parts for $3200, I paid for the parts.

It's funny you mentioned it, I just purchase a OBDLink MX Bluetooth Scan Tool earlier today, one of the more expensive ones! You can get them real cheap (made in China) but this one has the battery power saving feature. The upcoming OBDLink MX Wi-Fi Scan Tool isn't available yet, I know the BT version doesn't have problems like the OBDLink MX Wi-Fi is having. The Wi-Fi draws a little more from your car battery, they are still working on the firmware for the Wi-Fi version, anybody knows that Wi-Fi has its configuration problems. Bluetooth is simplified and that's priceless, more user friendly.

 

Aye I agree very expensive repair man ya could have sourced a replacement engine had it fitted and still had enough for a holiday for that money.....that's why I hate criminal dealers and garages I taught myself car mechanics after being ripped off 15 years ago..........btw the best code reader for BMW or mini on a budget is the c110 scanner search this on ebay easy to use and a decent price about $125 the launch creader is great too but it only reads codes and resets check lights the c110 works on airbags and all body systems too or if yer handy with a laptop get the proper BMW inpa software package cheap but difficult to install and configure

 

Thanks for all the input. I called the mini dealer and asked them about this and they said the quote they gave me was including the cost to tow the car from my town to theirs. So I still got screwed but there's not much I can do about it now..

I got the codes back from the mechanic. I go in tomorrow to get the valve cover gaskets replaced for free and while they're already in there, they will investigate further..

The codes I got were...
2AD2 - Oxygen sensor after CAT, Dynamic response to overrun.
2845 - VANOS Exhaust activation movement

I had a VANOS code come up before they replaced the timing assembly (code 283D VANOS exhaust adaptation stop).

Does this mean something is still wrong with my timing chain?? I'm worried that they either managed to mess up the install or that I never needed the assembly replaced in the first place.

Also, I'm thinking that a bad oxygen sensor could be the cause of my symptoms. The shop said they think I could have carbon build up around the sensor causing it to malfunction. I read that carbon build up is a common cause for damaged O2 sensors. But what is the VANOS code business? It's really bothering me...

Also, I drove it this weekend with and without the A/C on. It only acted up really bad once and that was with the A/C off. So at least that has been ruled out.

Thanks again for those who are keeping up on this thread. I like getting the opinions of others so that I can avoid getting screwed over again.

 

I should also point out that after the timing assembly was replaced, a MINI tech from that dealership had to come down and reset the ECU. The tech claimed that he was having difficulty getting the car to recognize that the timing had been replaced. All he told me was that he had to "throw some codes at it" to get it to run properly because it was being so stubborn. Is this common procedure? Or was he just putting a band aid on an already existing issue? Could I have a bad ECU?

Sorry for all the questions. I'm just so frustrated right now...

 

You took it back to the criminals that clearly overcharged you, you need to start pushing towards talking with the manager or better the owner about your excessive bill. I've heard of members receiving money back because a manager agreed. So now you're at $3700 and the car still isn't fixed, I'd be frustrated after spending that much money and the car doesn't run!

Your questions are impossible to confirm or answer with any degree of certainty, only thing we can do is guess. Your nightmare isn't over so if you think you're frustrated now give it some time, there's going to be another bill from the dealer you took it to, wonder if it will match what you already paid.

 

I hear ya and feel your pain also.......Dealers are well versed in one thing.....********.......first off ....if the car was running fine prior to leaving it into them I'd be demanding they sort the car out period......after payin that sort of dollar I'd be expecting a champagne reception man......be firm girl......if not and the car was running bad prior to that then that's a a whole other thang .....can't see the ecu/dme being a problem as they're supposed to adapt to changes in the valve timing to a certain extent altho I have read about these n12 engines losing their map......I replaced my ecu/dme/cas/frm made squat of a difference to my bad idle problem...as I've found out these damm cars are so complex regarding valve timing the chain can be off a few degrees and you'd never know as the valvetronic system compensates for slight variances in valve timing via the vanos system.........with your error codes it could be a bad exhaust vanos solenoid I'm still troubleshooting mine when I disconnected my exhaust solenoid the car ran fine.......when I put I new one in it runs worse.....lol......go figure man.......try disconnecting it it's just below the oil dipstick a two pin plug you will get a new code due to it being unplugged but listen to how the engine runs.........also the cat issue u mentioned don't listen to shops they're full it .........most of the time jus like u and me tryin to figure out a problem lol while charging you dollar bill.......regarding your other code a post cat failure ......this is very rare as it's only really there to monitor the other pre cat sensor.......but hey I been workin on cars for years mostly BMWs and Porsches and I'm gettin a whole new schooling with these damm r56's man lol I'll let you know how I get on this week with the vanos system......after that I ain't wasting any more time on this dog......time for an engine transplant......I've spent more already replacing **** lol

 

Lol exactly........right on the money......I'd be whoopin asses at that damm garage man.......maybe it's an Irish thing lol if the car went in without the problem then it shoulda came out tick tock..........

 

I understand all that but this shop is the only euro mechanic in my area. They're doing the gaskets for free and running diagnostics for free. When I find out the issue, I can determine determine where to take it from that point for the repairs. I'm going to talk to the manager tomorrow when I bring it in about the price. Until then there's nothing I can do. Thank you for letting me know I got screwed. I wouldn't of known if I didn't start this thread but talking about it isn't going to fix my car. I'll update on how the talk with him goes.. A partial refund would be amazing.

As far as the issues with the car goes, I don't expect anyone to diagnose it. Just some opinions are always nice.. If nobody has any that's fine too. I'll keep updating my experience though just in case other people are having similar issues.