Also the car was not running fine prior to getting the timing chain fixed. It ran terribly. I could barely get it above 30mph. It ran great after I got it back until a couple weeks later. Not defending them, of course. Just clearing that up.

 

If I'm seem frustrated it's not at all with you, I just hate seeing people getting ripped off by overcharging customers. My dealer knows me all too well, when they say something needs fixing they know I require proof and a visual inspection by me while they explain what and why, they think twice about screwing me over.

I hope it's something minor like a crank sensor, throttle pedal and or O2 sensor, either one of these can make a small problem look big. We are all interested in the outcome.

 

No, it's completely alright. I understand you're just trying to help.

Here is the breakdown of my bill...

Labor: $1081.28
Parts: $2,252.82 (timing kit=1287.72, timing gears 2x at $$460.67).

Then I had about $350 tied into it for an oil change and diagnostics and such.

I'm not sure where to address the price so I was hoping you could help. Did I get over charged on labor or parts? or both?

Thanks!

 

Also they said that carbon cleanup would cost $250. I called the mini dealer and they said it would cost $330 so it's cheaper at this place. However, I'm going to ask for proof that I have a carbon issue because they had the car taken apart for the timing chain repair and they never mentioned seeing carbon buildup... Also, I'm not convinced that would cause the VANOS code to come up.

 

Try disconnecting the exhaust vanos solenoid connector and see if it runs better,lift the black tab on the connector side and pull to remove......heres a rough photo of it's location

 

Also when you leave the car in to be fixed you expect the car to come out perfect certainly not with any new faults,which in your case are related to timing,the vanos system works in tandem with the timing so they are both linked regardless of what any garage may tell you it's a very complex system that not all garages would even take on due to the lack of specialized tools required.......i would speak to the garage manager and demand politely but firmly that the car be returned faultlesss......if its throwing up vanos codes then it's related to the new timing belt the garage installed...good luck i'm still having no luck with mine.....

 

That's wrong, the timing kit cost me $389 and my labor was $1211 and replacing the timing gears was unnecessary! Boy did they take advantage of you, get in touch with the dealer manager and tell him all of us on NAM are curious as to why his dealer charged an insane amount for the timing kit which is $389 at dealers across the country, he'll be singing a different toon.

 

Looks like my problem is the timing off a tooth on what looks like a recent timing chain replacment, easy mistake to make for non Bmw/peugeot trained garages from what i've been hearing today from friends in the trade......perhaps this is the cause of your symptoms also......

 

Mini_monster
If they replaced the vanos units (gears) then there shouldnt be any vanos faults . If they check their work and its fine, the next step would be to swap the solenoids and see if the fault goes to the intake side.Im thinking there is the possibility that the exhaust camshaft may possibly be off a tooth.I have also heard some stories that non MINI timing tools have tolerances at which do not meet MINI standars, and can have up to 3 degrees difference built into the timing parts to allow for ease of use. If thats the case, and seeing it was not done by a mini dealership, I would suggest to them that they have it sent to the nearest MINI dealer so that the timing can be checked if they cannot find a problem. 3 degrees of timing is not a full tooth off of timing, but is enough to cause headaches of the like that your experiencing.As far as the mini tech "throwing codes at it", that makes no sense. The adaptations in the engine computer require a reset when this job is done, maybe that wouldnt complete properly for him? Hope this helps.
dthtrp

 

I've read the entire thread and swear my '07 MCS suffers from all of the symptoms mentioned (if not more) throughout the various posts.

I've gathered that the following might be potential culprits:

1. Crankshafter sensor (failure)
2. Cam sensor (failure)
3. Cam belt (faulty)
4. Injectors (clogged)
5. Vanos solenoid (faulty)
6. Timing chain (off timing)
7. Oxygen sensors

That said, does any one have parts #s or diagrams showing the parts above? If they these parts are relatively inexpensive, I'd like to replace them all as part preventative maintenance and part improving annoyingly rough idle and jerky driving (especially shifting up in gears).

Thanks.

 

My 07 R56 non S is thowing these two codes. I just replaced the Timing chain/guides and tensioner. My MINI started but has a ruff idol almost wants to stall. Was there a fix for your 2845 code?

 

Hey Pawea, I just removed my valve cover and looking at this picture your Slide Rail looks exactly as mine. When I look at all the kits that have the Slide Rail the look different. They look longer or have more plastic that what this picture shows.

Thanks,

 

My car started smoking white excessively and misfiring. Took it to the dealer and they diagnosed it as leaking injectors. Advisor called me back saying that cylinder 1 was flooded and that they wanted to do a compression check. Bill was up to 3k for the injectors , labor and diagnostic (compression check). I told him it was excessive. Next day he calls me and tells me that they did a boroscope inspection and that showed damage to the piston and he explained that it was due to the priston trying to compress a flooded cylinder. On that note I did some digging and found that the bosch injectors have the same manufacturer number as the MINI original injectors. MINI original they were trying to sell me for 400dlls a pop. I bought the BOSCH from ECS tuning for 62 a pop. These dealers are thieves. I will post after replacing injectors to update on my case.

 

I have same issues. Wondering if problem was fixed by anyone.

Note: Mine does not lurch / stall when stopping AS MUCH with Sport Mode on. Little higher rpms helping?

Thanks everyone

 

Tio, My 2009 with AT has been stalling at traffic lights. Is this the problem you had? Where exactly is the controller at the front of the AT?
Mac, Saratoga