When braking at high speeds I get a steering wheel shake. If I slam hard I get no shake.

Things I have checked: Rotors and Pads are aftermarket and both in excellent condition. I had these checked at the dealership.

What else should I check?

EDIT: I only get this at speeds over 30mph also.

 

Control arm bushings have been known to cause some vibration issues

 

^, if not then check tie rod ends, ball joints,wheel balance, dead shocks.
Then check the rotors again.

 

I only get this at speeds over 30mph also.

 

If it's happening only under braking, it's your rotors. They're either warped, or have uneven pad material transfer on them. Warpage may not be visible to the naked eye, especially if you're not looking very closely and carefully. Measure the run-out of the rotor. I don't know what the spec is, but I'm sure there is one. I bet yours exceeds it.

 

My money is on warped rotors.
Have you been autoX-ing lately?

BTDT.
New rotors fixed the problem.

a

 

+1 on the rotors. Unless the dealer removed the rotors and put them on a lathe, they are just guessing saying it's not the rotors. They're relatively inexpensive and give you a good excuse to change your brake pads while you're in there.

 

I would agree with the issue being rotors. My stock ones never gave me problems, but I upgraded to Centric high-carbons on all 4 corners when I went to the EBC Red Stuff pads. VERY happy with my braking. Much less dusting than the stock pads as well.

Be sure to check for rust/corrosion on the mounting flanges of both the rotors and the hubs themselves. And the wheels. Clean up with a wire wheel if needed. Also, be sure to evenly torque your lug nuts or bolts.

 

some folks who seem to know a bit about brakes say that "warped rotor" is dealer/mechanic BS .....


http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths

 

I like StopTech and their products, but their white paper's statement on warping is inconsistent with reality.

I've personally warped at least 1 set of E36 BMW rotors and 1 set of '08 MCS rotos in the past, both by over-aggressively trail braking during competitive autoXs where I was trying to extract the last 0.1 out of the car.

You do that a few runs in a row, and the front rotors over heat (if you have dedicated track/autoX pads, else pads give out first). Then you park the car in the paddock waiting for the next run, rotors cool down unevenly, baking-in brake pad residue in areas covered by the pads. Next thing you now, the light application shimmy is there to stay.

You can, in theory, wear it off by gradually consuming the outer rotor layer that was compromised. But I usually loose patience and replace the rotors first.

BTDT. I am not particularly proud of the above accompli$hment$, but will likely repeat in the heat of the battle

a

 

That may be, but it means the same thing in the end: The rotors need to be replaced or machined.

They also add the caveat about "fasteners properly torqued". Chances are, unless you installed the wheels yourself, they were not torqued to spec. They just put an extension on their air ratchet that is supposed to give at "about that amount" of torque... Sometimes, not even that much. And over-torqued wheel bolts can indeed cause actual warped rotors.

 

Some awesome info was available on that StopTech link! Much of it applies not only to my daily "sprited" driving on the twisties to work and back home, but also to the Police Interceptors that I work on for a living. I always try to give my brakes a "cool-down" period, but after a high-speed pursuit in an Interceptor, this is often NOT an option. A very good and informative read, and true-to-life in my career.