Hi,

I have a problem with my 2007 mini cooper which is overheating. We got two codes p0917 and p0125. We changed the thermostat today.

After restarting the car, we waited for the engine to warm up. It warmed up until the yellow light temperature warning came on. We stopped the car and gonna see tomorrow because the garage had to close.

Any idea what else can cause the problem ?

The car is a r56 cooper justa has 69k and no problem so far. Just the serpentine belt changed last week after it failed.

 

Not sure how its setup on a Justa, but on an MCS, the water pump is driven off the backside of the belt. There is a little **** you pull so that you can relieve the pressure on the belt to change it. If whoever-changed-the-belt didn't put it back the way its supposed to be, your pump isn't working.

 

make sure you bleed the cooling system properly to remove all air from the system. search for instructions here.

 

Yeah maybe it Is That. Ill see tomorrow. The thing is like the engine is getting hot but nothing is starting to cool it down.

I remember the guy released the big stuff which was hard to pull actually. I also noticed that with the new belt (bought at mini) is doing some noise at 4000rpms and more. Like a rolling noise. I thought because it was a new one maybe. But maybe it has to do something with the pump.

 

We bleed the all system and put new coolant. The fan never starts. Never never, even after the temperature warning, but my repair shop tested it with some other power source and it is working, I mean turning.

 

Did you bleed the system with the engine running, and did you get coolant out of the bleeder?

Other people have found that shops forgot to re-engage the drive wheel for the water pump.

Have fun,
Mike

 

Hey mike,

No didn't do it with the engine on. Do you know how can we re engage it ?

 

If the engine wasnt running, you didn't bleed it. Go back and redo.

Sent from my Nexus using NAMotoring

 

The wheel is retracted by pulling a little tab, which is attached to a flat wire spring. Make sure that the tab is pushed back into the housing so that no shiny metal is exposed (the spring is about 1/8" wide). If you can see a gap between the pulley (the one with the cross-hatched outer diameter) and the belt, then the pulley is not engaged.

Before starting the car, get a screwdriver on the bleeder and a flashlight and make sure you know exactly where it is (it is pretty well hidden). When the car is running, open up the bleeder until you see a steady stream of liquid coming out. It will take at least 2 turns to get fluid out of the bleeder screw, but you don't want to have the screw back out all of the way.

Mike

 

Hey thanks for your answers!

I just want to keep this post updated. We replaced in fact the thermostat and the fuse! Everything is working perfectly. I changed the thermostat last year... This is a piece of crap!

See you all around

 

Never would have guessed it would be a fuse, glad it worked out for you.

How did a fuse go bad?

 

The fuse was bad yes, but the thermostat was out of service as well. My check engine light when out after replacing the thermostat. I just think this part is crap and needs to be changed often after 60k. Georgia is running like a charm now. The fuse by the way is a 30A (GREEN) see back of the box to locate it.

 

I don't understand why Mini didn't start manufacturing them in aluminum like they did with the now updated aluminum water pumps, the thermostat housings fail more often than the older factory plastic water pumps Mini was using. I replaced mine even though it was fine, I didn't want it to fail me in this heatwave we get in SoCal.