Hello everyone, I've lurked on this site for months, decided to finally ask a question.

I am in the market for a MCS, probably an R56 (though I would love to hear opinions on R56 vs R53) just wondering what are the most common issues of the R56, ive done some searching looks like carbon build up is one.

I am going to be using the MCS as my daily driver, Ive heard that the R56 is more "refined" but the R53 is more of a "drivers car" as in louder, fun to drive but not as comfortable. I've driven an R56, I really liked it, hence im leaning towards an R56. I would appreciate all opinions on both topics

- Jason

 

Good luck and welcome Jason!

From a personal standpoint, a turbo (R56) is a better option - simply due to efficiency. When you don't need power, the turbo spools down - you aren't driving the compressor... The supercharger on the other hand IS always on, so does deliver power slightly faster, but IS always on, so drags at the engine (burning fuel) when not really needed. This car is to be your D/D rather than a track car?

Having lurked a bit (we all do...), you know of the vacuum pump and fuel pump failures, and the dreaded "death rattle."

The last may have been sorted with recalls, though only time will tell.

The first 2 problems seem to be a plague here in the forums, but don't forget that mostly people with troubles will post here, and then there are the Miniacs - there are many Miniacs/Mini fans (so as not to offend...), but there are also MANY Mini's out there, so the odds of a few failing are 100%, and many of them will come here to gripe - making the problems look worse than they are...

Added to the list of gripes:

Engine coolant problems - the system seems weak. A plastic thermostat housing, a recall on the coolant temp bulb that may fix some engine starting and cold idle problems - or may not in my case (I thought it had, but apparently not...)

Electrical gremlins - the car is infested with a bunch of computers that talk amongst themselves - there are bound to be problems, no matter the manufacturer, and I suspect this sort of problem will be an automotive plague from now on.

Squeaks and rattles - also a 'car' problem in general if you ask me, but worth mentioning, as it does really **** some people off!

So... All that being said, there are many (2 out of the 3 Mini owners I personally know for example) who have had few or no problems with their Minis, and while I have had some (so far) minor problems, I am a proud Miniac! This after 18 or so trouble free years of driving Honda products.

The R53: As I noted before, a superchaqrger is more suited to track driving (in my opinion) than as a D/D due efficiency. Also, with the R53, you are buying an older car, so you will need to replace more parts sooner than if buying a new or low mileage R56. That being said, the issues with the R53 have been WELL explored, so you know exactly what you are getting into long term (head to the R53 forum for good info), and the possibilities for power, performance and comfort upgrades are many fold due to how long the car has been out there...

Good luck shopping and we hope to see you here more... ...as a Miniac of course!
E

 

some of r56 common problems are: timing chain, carbon build up, high pressure fuel pump, water pump, thermostat, squeaking windows
some of r53 common problems are: control arm bushings, leaking oil pan, crankshaft sensor seal leaking, water pump, aux fan, power steering fan, leaking power steering hoses, oc3 mats...
i would choose r53, they are easier to work on., not as many computers

 

1) Timing Chain issue-there is a fix that costs $1500-2000 by the dealers.
2) Carbon Buildup- Adding oil catch can helps
3) Fuel pump failure- warranty up to 100k
4) Eats a lot of oil- Make sure to check your oil regularly. Low oil can lead to serious engine issues

 

i see you have 2012, watch out for oil pump volume control solenoid leaking. it will leak into your harness and up to the dme

 

Most things on a used vehicle can be noticed by a trained eye if you know what you're looking for. Abuse, neglect, cover-ups; they all leave a trail.
Check the paint around all the doors, look for paint overspray; that's evidence of replacement body-work due to an accident.

Check the heat shield around the turbocharger and on the fire wall inside the engine bay; is it discolored? Brown? Removed?
If so, the car you may be looking at has been hot-rodded all over town.

Check the oil, coolant, the undercarriage for scrapes + dents, any leaks, and anything and everything to get the upper hand on the sales person or owner.
Double check all components and you'll find out everything you'll want to know on the car.

Other things to look for:

Oil Sludging / Low Oil Problems: The biggest failure in terms of negligence has been the oil level, and oil change frequency on these cars. Since the oil system affect the Vacuum Pump, Timing Chain tensioner, turbocharge feed and return lines, and critical engine bearings, a low oil condition can make for serious problems down the road. Read the oil dipstick, see if the oil is low or is extremely thick / chunky; if so, maintenance has been neglected and you'll want to proceed with extreme caution if purchasing the vehicle. If sludging occurs, you could eventually have problems with: 1.) the Vacuum Pump seizing which will shear off the camshaft timing sprocket and grenade the engine. 2.) Timing Chain tensioner not applying proper tension on the timing chain, allowing the chain to skip teeth on the camshaft sprocket, therefore ruining the engine. 3.) Turbocharger bearings not be supplied with proper oil flow which will cook the bearings in the turbocharger, causing seizure.

Timing Chain Tensioner [1.6T - N14 / N18]: When you first fire up the vehicle and there's a significant metallic rattle on the passenger side of the engine, that's the sound of a loose timing chain. The parasitic "Cold-Start Rattle" you will read about refers to the lack of proper tension on the timing chain or the chain stretched out beyond proper specification. There's been reworking of the timing chain tensioner and a replacement is easy to come by, but it should be required. There's also a TSB regarding if the chain is out of spec, it can be replaced, sometimes even out of warranty. Check maintenance history and any open TSB's at a local MINI dealer.

Valvetrain Coking / Carbon Build-Up: Since the turbocharged engine use direct-injection (DI) versus fuel-port injection (FPI), the fuel is directly shot into the combustion chamber. Because that is so, there's no fuel washdown on the backside of the intake valves. Due to the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system on the engine, oil vapor is pulled from the valve cover into the intake system and can condense and build on the back of the intake valves. Serious coking of the valves will lead to obvious power reduction as the valves aren't properly closing for the combustion (power) stroke of the engine. What can be done about it? On the preventative side, make sure you're driving the car to bring it to proper operating temperature; short trips produce more vapor condensation. Once up to running temp, don't be afraid the bring the RPMs up to the rev-limiter of the engine; the 1.6T's love higher engine speeds, as it'll burn off most of the oily residue on the valves and keep the engine 'clean'. You can also install an oil catch can which with a passenger side PCV block port, will pull oil vapor through a condensing catch can first before being reintroduced into the engine. And finally, if the coking is so bad performance is hindered, the MINI dealer can do a walnut-media blasting service that uses crushed walnut shells to blast off any baked on carbon build-up; expect that service to cost several hundred dollars.

Dual Mass Clutch Assembly: A company called Valeo supplies MINI with the clutch assembly. During the early years of the 2nd-Generation, the clutches were incorrectly manufactured: the flywheel mass binding rivets were poorly installed causing excessive movement and play in the flywheel. That movement accelerated wear on the clutch disc itself, leading to a slipping clutch and eventually failure. When driving, take note of the available take-up on the clutch pedal. Engagement should be around mid-stride and should be pretty fluid. There is documentation out there if the vehicle has been covered or be given OEM replacement through the dealer; see the vehicle service history for more details.

Check Engine Light (CEL): Make sure all of the emission control circuits are intact and there are no Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) stored in the OBD system. This includes the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor, the ignition coil, Secondary Air Injection system, and other sensors. Check to ensure no other fault codes in other modules, like ABS, SRS (airbag), etc.

ABS System: Test drive the vehicle and perform a Panic Stop to ensure that the ABS system is in proper condition. If not, expect to pay a fortune to replace the system... avoid those at all costs, unless you've got a buddy in the business.

All Electrical Accessories: Make sure to nit-pick all of the accessories; power windows (all switches), power locks, AC, cruise control... the works! There's been some issues in the early 2nd-Generation models and the kinks are still getting worked out.

VIN Service History: If you're not convinced of what previous maintenance has been completed on the vehicle, grab the entire VIN number off the dash, and bring it to a MINI dealership. Their database will give you any insight of service maintenance records, if it's been brought in any MINI dealer stateside. You could use that information against the selling party to negotiate price if there's something that's required for replacement / service.

As for putting down the cash: Play hardball with the price! Flash the cash; that always puts you in the offensive and gives good results. Offer to pay what you want for the car, not what the seller wants. If they say "no", walk away from the deal. There's other cars out there; and besides, they (and chances are good) they'll meet your reasonable price before letting you walk away.

Really the R55 / R56 / R57 / R58 / R59's are good; consumer reports tend to be negative because of faults due to lack of proper ownership.
Honestly, some owners have run into problems, but that was due to abuse and obvious neglect on the car.

With the 2nd-Generation here's what you're looking at...
Let's break this down to see both side of repairs:

1.6T - N14 / N18:
* timing chain tensioner - oil sludging will produce failure and destruction of vavletrain
* vacuum pump seizure - oil sludging will produce failure and destruction of valvetrain
* turbocharger - oil sludging will occur if neglected or abused
* oil level / oil consumption - MINI specs consuming 1 quart per 1000 miles is typical; always keep engine oil to proper level
* carbon build-up - due to "grandma style" driving habits; can use catch-can to reduce oil vapor into intake system
* clutch assembly - early model faulty manufacturing and/or poor previous manual driver

All relatively easy if you take care of the car.
And if they do fault out, and you're mechanically inclined, you'll have no problems doing the many of the repairs yourself.

Best of luck!

- Erik

 

Thanks Eric, that is a very indepth write up. I will take all things into consideration as I'm test driving over the next couple of weeks

 

So glad you asked this question. I'm new in here today. New in any kind of car forum. Am trying to learn more about my first MINI.
Along the lines of your post as I read what Eric posted above I have to ask about a concern you may have mentioned above. Just bought an 09 Cooper S Turbo Automatic. I guess you guys call it an R56? It has a "chuggy" feel to it often when I've just started it or before I give it much gas. Like it hesitates or "coughs" before it kicks in. The rest of the time it reacts very well. Could that be what you are describing above as the valvetrain coking/carbon buildup? No MINI mechanic in my area. Suggestions?

 

The Rxx code is MINI's 'internal' designation of the car's 2nd-generation platform.
The R56 is the hatchback.
The R55 is the Clubman chassis.
The R57 is the convertible.
The R58 is the coupe.
The R59 is the roadster.

Definitely possible, or it could be a high pressure fuel pump issue.
But only proper diagnosis and inspection will confirm those hypothesis.

- Erik

 

Some might not call it a problem. But more of a feature

But the stock tires on the turbo MCS are run flats, which many think have a pretty harsh ride. The 15" tires on the base offer a much smoother ride

 

Ha! had most of this happen to me. Timing chain (twice), carbon build up, HPFP, premature clutch burnout @40K miles ... and now today @100K discovered water pump bearings are going (chirpy squeeking sound at low idle after warming up for five minutes) and the valve cover needs replacing (after experiencing excessive oil use). Also had the turbo blow and associated parts leading to that (ie, Mass Air Flow Sensor). I've heard that turbo issues are not as common. Auxillary pump placed under recall.

A couple of those things occurred within the first four years with the (extended) warranty, but it's been averaging about $1000 a pop for every issue I listed.

BlueFox makes a good point about oil pressure, which these vehicles are extremely sensitive to. The first couple years I owned the vehicle I waited for the owners-manual prescribe (free) oil changes at the dealer. I was naive to the possibility that I could be losing oil in-between these oil changes, with thousands of miles having turned over in the meantime. Throw in the fact that the OEM dipstick is absurdly difficult to read (I eventually found a much better replacement), so it was hard for me to even detect low-oil conditions. In short, I think a lot of my issues above I contributed to through ignorance over the importance of maintaining good oil pressure.

 

Which replacement dipstick did you go with. I absolutely hate the factory one and and agree its near impossible to read.

 

Buy a Mini with a N18 engine. No carbon build up

 

At $75 it's not exactly cheap, but I bought the Cravenspeed replacement.

The sinker measures one quart, with notches to indicate fractions of a quart to add.

 

To Bluefox - Erik - Thank you for all the great information as I will be a proud owner of a new JCW in late Feb (still being built) and that was a great bit of info that I have not read before.

Thank You

 

That's actually a false statement.
The N18 is slower in accumulation, but it still occurs.
* https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...n-buildup.html

- Erik