2011 Mini Cooper Clubman R55/N16, 90,000 miles

Got these codes
P0011
P2096
P0015
P2196
P0420

Engine stopped while I was at the parking lot - had to tow it home. Engine won't start

Took the valve cover off - the top glide piece broke off.

Looked inside the cylinders - don't see any damage on the pistons

Just ordered the camshaft lock tool so that I can check to see if the chain jumped or not before determine if doing the timing chain will start the engine with no lingering issues

Wanted to see if I'm on the right track/path?

Which brand do you recommend for timing belt chain kit?

 

P0011 and P0015 are camshaft position faults. These codes would lead me to believe the timing chain jumped.

This timing kit won't break the bank:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...1311439853kt2/

Plan on taking the oil pan down to check for bits and pieces.

 

I just did a timing chain on my 2007 N14.

It's difficult to find parts that aren't Chinese manufacture. I bought an INA/Scheffler kit, and it's now made in China.

Check Rock Auto.

 

Good plan

 

Ordered this
https://www.detroittuned.com/mini-n1...roduct-reviews

 

Yeah, that's a comprehensive, high quality kit.

Be super careful when installing the crank seal. You may actually want to have a second one on hand just in case the lip flips over on the install.

 

Got the part, went ahead, took the valve cover off, took the auxiliary belt, rotated the pulley/flywheel clockwise until the wordings on both camshafts were facing up - I couldn't pin in the flywheel locking pin. I took out my camera probe and pointed it in the hole at the flywheel.

I kept on rotating it then the pin showed up but the wordings wasn't showing up straight, then after maybe 1/4 of a turn, the intake camshaft (I think - its the one furthest away from you when standing at front of the engine) was pointing upward, but the exhaust camshaft didn't aligned up.

It's clear that the timing chain jumped. My question here is how should I proceed to realign it all? How do I know if the valves aren't bent or any other damages?

1. Lock the flywheel (I will make sure that I rotate it until I see the letters pointing almost upward, I am aware that it takes 2 full rotates for it to go 1 full cycle for the camshafts),
2. take the chain off,
3. realigin the camshafts - whats the proper way to rotate the camshaft? special tool?
4. lock it with the camshaft locking tool
5. install the chain, etc.

 

I'm following this youtube video which I am finding very helpful.

 

Sounds like another good plan. You can see minispecialist rotate a camshaft with a wrench at 8:40 of the video.

Step 6 of your plan should be to compression test the cylinders (check for a bent valve).

Tip: Inserting a ~10-inch plastic straw into each spark plug hole will help you monitor the 90° piston position when rotating the crank pulley.

 

Well.....

If you're timing the whole motor, it's basically irrelevant where things are now AS LONG AS YOUR VALVES AREN'T already bent.

The crankshaft rotates two full revolutions for every revolution of the camshaft(s). So rotate the engine until you see the writing on the camshafts 'begin' to face upward, then rotate slowly while applying pressure to the locking pin. I find it hard to believe that the motor would have been running without error codes if the timing were off significantly; these motors are extremely sensitive to that. If you're marks are still not lining up, it's still not really relevant, as long as your valves aren't bent. You can lock the crankshaft with the pin, loosen the camshaft sprockets, then remove the chain; you now have the ability to rotate the camshafts independently to any position you wish. BE SURE TO USE A 27mm WRENCH ON THE BOSS AT THE BACK END OF THE CAMSHAFT WHEN ROTATING. When you have them in position, lock the camshafts with the tool, install your new chain, guides, etc., and proceed with reassembly.

 

I was able to replace the timing chain, all of the valves looks good (used a probe camera and checked it through the intake). I rotated the crank/pulley multiple times and it all aligned up 100% the time. It's now all back together.

I tried to start it but it wouldn't start (It didn't throw any code), so I am trying to do a compression test before doing this further.

This is what I did to try to do a compression test - removed all of the spark plugs and pulled out the fuse for the fuel pump. I am not able to crank the engine with the starter - I suspect it might be because I pulled the fuel pump and disconnected the ignitors.

Any suggestions on how I can do a compression test or what else should I check for to see why it wouldn't start?

 

If you fix the no-crank issue, then the engine may start, and there would be no need for compression tests.

Focus on troubleshooting the starter problem. Is the starter cable and connector secure? Is the battery low on charge?

 

Thank you - I think it might be the battery - its being recharged right now, will try again tomorrow.

 

I was unable to do the compression test because it wouldn't let me crank due to 2 codes

2F8F - Engine switch-ff time, plausbility
2FD7 - EWS anti-tampering protection

Does anyone know what could have caused it?

 

The battery in your key fob may be dead, which would prevent the key immobilizer from communicating with the CAS.

Is the car battery now fully charged?

As mentioned previously, it remains unclear that a compression test is necessary until you resolve the no-crank issue.

 

Thank you for getting back to me quickly

Car battery - yup (Just bought new one).

When I inserted the fob key - it acted like it recognized the key even though the FOB battery is probably original from 2011 (Don't recall replacing the battery) - how can I test it or recharge it? Whats the proper way to replace or to recharge the fob battery?

It did crank when I first started it but I think it's preventing me from cranking due to the recent error codes.

 

Do you have a spare working key fob? If so, try it.

 

yes but it broke long time ago :/ (It stopped working when I dropped it)

 

I'm not at all sure that the battery in the fob is very relevant beyond convenience functions. However - changing it isn't a simple task. It's a rechargeable battery which is soldered in to the fob, and charges inductively when inserted in the car.

I had a 2012 R58 which had a non-functioning battery in the fob when I bought it - fob would not perform any convenience functions. I opened it, the battery wasn't connected. I replaced it, but the fob still wouldn't lock/unlock the doors. Bought a new fob from MINI/BMW and that worked immediately. But the point is, the entire time I had the car with the old fob - and the disconnected battery in it - the car would crank and start. What you're dealing with now is an immobilizer/coding issue, and the fob battery is irrelevant IMO.

 

Quick GOOGLE search shows:

https://www.rpmmotorsport.net/produc...f1ro9t9IfONn0Z

That's for the 2FD7. The other code seems to be an error related to brake/accelerator pedals and may be erroneous. The immobilizer fault would be the first issue.

 

The key fob contains an immobilizer chip that must communicate with the CAS module to start the engine.

 

100%, but still doesn't confirm that the battery is required in the fob - as I stated in my post, I had a fob with a non-functioning battery and the car would still start. It seems that the radio function of the fob will operate when inserted in the car regardless of whether a battery is present or not, but I'm just a self taught repairman, not an electrical engineer with specific vehicle information and electrical schematics/ladder diagrams.

 

Do you have Comfort Access, which is different from a regular key fob? Also not sure what type of key fob that harble has.

​​​​​​​I'm just a DIYer.

 

Yah, OK, DIYer, like whatever, man

Regarding my vehicle with the disconnected fob battery....no, it did not have CAS. Fob still needed to be inserted in to the dash to start the vehicle. I'm aware that the CAS vehicles have a simple computer style battery, like a 2032.

 

Why so snarky?