Guess you couldn't see the emojis.

No offense intended.

 

Thank you for this^ helpful information. I did not know that the fob battery is dispensable for the fob immobilizer chip to communicate with the CAS. In this case, harble should consider that the fob immobilizer chip may be bad, though the problem could also be downstream of the chip, for example the CAS module.

 

From the info I found via the Google search, it's possible that the immobilizer locks up when voltage is not present - and when this occurs you're screwed.

Quote - 2FD7 -- DME EWS Anti tampering protection

A102 -- Immobilizer anti tampering protection

The reason this happens is because the CAS Module and DME (Engine control unit) loses its Sync Code between them or a battery replacement / discharge occurred. Even with an Autologic or ISTA-P you will NOT be able to make a CAS-DME Alignment. The Only way this will work is that you send us your DME, CAS and Key.

It doesn't sound very optimistic.

I really dislike vehicle immobilizers.

 

In this thread on a 2011 R55, 2FD7 was fixed by resetting the CAS, DME and key. He attributed the problem to not disconnecting the battery while doing electrical work. Other posters in the thread mentioned that an overheated CAS or letting the battery go dead can also trigger the issue.

 

I don't know how/why letting the battery 'go dead' would trigger this issue, but disconnecting the battery is just fine.....

Stories like these are why folks long for the days of distributors, points, and carburetors.

 

They are anecdotal accounts, rather than actual proof of causality. Letting the battery go dead or possibly incorrect disconnection of the battery is also frequently associated with FRM issues, though causality is never proven. However, sophisticated BMW computer systems do seem to be more susceptible to frustrating and expensive electrical issues.

 

Where do you all send to reset the CAS/DME and Key? I just hate going to the MINI dealer where they will charge ridiculous price.

Going to do some research on this to see what my options are and if there's a way for me to do myself if there's a way - I currently have a Foxwell NT510 Elite scanner and I doubt it has the ability to do that.

 

You should shop around to find a reputable person or company who has experience doing this type of coding.

One person I would recommend contacting is Maic Salazar. Watch some of his videos.

 

The posts I've quoted were from folks sending their stuff to RPM Motorsport - https://www.rpmmotorsport.net/produc...f1ro9t9IfONn0Z

 

Thank you all for the helpful information. Here are the latest with the Clubman.

• Battery was bad (Cells couldn't hold the battery for that long) - took it back, got a replacement
• Engine now cranks
  • I no longer see the 2 codes or any codes
    • 2F8F - Engine switch-ff time, plausbility
      2FD7 - EWS anti-tampering protection
• Already had the compression kit out/hooked up to the cylinder, so I went ahead with it - pulled the fuse to the fuel pump
  • Cylinder 1 - 0 PSI
  • Cylinder 2 - 60 PSI
  • Cylinder 3 - 90 PSI
  • Cylinder 4 - 0 PSI

Looks like the valves got bent or lost its seal - I am going to go ahead and take the engine head/block off to inspect/replace the valves and whatever else I need to replace while I'm at it.

I'll do some further research here and online.

 

Well, I'm sorry this happened....but I had a feeling there would be valve damage.

It's a fun project, enjoy!

 

I'm a bit surprised by the somewhat low compression in cylinders 2 & 4. You may want to verify that all fuel injectors are inactive and that the cam timing is still dead on before you remove the head. If the latter are fine, do a cylinder leak down test for cylinders 1 & 4 to verify loss of compression from an exhaust or intake valve. This may be worthwhile as you did not see any valve damage with your camera probe.

 

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...sion-test.html

I didn't disable the fuel injectors (Looks like it's Fuse F68) - do I still need to do that even if I already pulled the fuse for the fuel pump?

I also didn't open the throttle at all - am I supposed to do that?

What do I look for when I do the cylinder leak down test for cylinders 1 & 4 - how do I know if it's intake or exhaust?

 

It's best to disable the fuel injectors to ensure that any residual fuel pressure does not coat the cylinder walls with fuel.

Yes, you do not want to limit air to the cylinders to ensure you obtain interpretable pressure results.

When you pressurize each cylinder with compressed air, air will leak from either the intake or exhaust if an intake valve or exhaust valve is damaged.

Link to thread detailing leakdown test

 

I don't think you need to stress about the injectors or throttle.

When checking compression, yes - disable the fuel pump so that the system doesn't pressurize. All plugs are removed, and the amount of fuel that would be sprayed out by the injectors in a 'cold start' condition is minimal - would certainly evaporate. As for the throttle - I don't know definitively if you can do anything here. It's not mechanical, it's controlled by the DME; and honestly, 'air' going in isn't going to make a significant difference on what you're measuring. This motor runs at 10.5:1, which would get you a static compression number of 155 psi; however, it's not a straight line conversion. I agree with M/MN that the 60 and 90 numbers are shockingly low - and in addition, they shouldn't be that far apart. I'd guess that there's more wrong with this than just one or 2 bent valves, but without pulling the head it's difficult to know.