I did something what I thought would be simple, Replace the fuel filter.
That seemed to go ok.
Tried to get the fuel pump to prime the filter basket.
It seems that the fuel pump is not working, the car just cranks.

Researching seems that the options are limited. Have the car towed to the local BMW dealership, this is not close. I do have a call to them to find out what they will charge.
The second is to remove the DME and the CAS and ship them off with one of the keys.
I am trying to get a hold of Foxwell to see if they sell an software update for my NT510 Elite that will re-sync the DME and CAS.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

 

Does anyone know what could have caused this code to be triggered?
I really don't want to do it again.

 

It appears that this code can be triggered by a CAS that overheats - at least one of the components on the CAS. Is your car fixed yet?

 

I have the CAS, DME and key at RPM Motor Sport to get reset set.
With luck I will get it back on Saturday. Then I can take the Mini on my trip out of town.
Getting the CAS out was a three-day journey.
Getting the DME out a two-day journey. The tabs to let the DME loose seemed to be a secrete. I found one place that mentioned the tabs.
The DEM and bracket was removed to get them separated, it was cake. Once known, it is a lesson that will not be soon forgot.
Most of the folks said just pry the DME out. That just didn't sit well with me.

I am traveling all next week, so if I don't get it tomorrow, then it will be another week before I can get to work on it.

All this just for changing the fuel filter. Whenever I have to work on the mini, the first thing I will do is disconnect the battery.

 

The CAS, DME and key arrived at the house today. Unfortunately, I am out of town until Friday evening.
The install will be slow, following the instructions backwards with my notes.
I will order a new fuel pump this week.

 

I was able to get the reassembly done in a day. There are two issues. I think the cat has dragged one of the bags of three t-20 screws away. They silly cat was constantly getting in to see what I was doing. The missing screws will be picked up on Saturday. When I pulled the DME and bracket out, there where 5 machined 10mm bolts and one 10mm plastic bolt. I can only fine places for 4 machined bolts. The plastic one is obvious. Any idea where the 5th machined bolt should go?
The fuel pump should arrive sometime this week.

 

I don't know where that bolt goes, sorry.

On a separate note, we have a car that had 2FD7 and we replaced the CAS, DME, and key and the car started right up. The code appeared after the car sat in a garage for three weeks and the battery went flat. We checked the typical stuff and came down to this. We opened the old CAS and there were no visible signs of heat damage. This was on a 2012 Base hardtop with 109,000 miles. We ordered the parts from Open Road MINI in Texas.

 

Would jumper the fuel pump to verify it's in running condition (although no longer necessary with a new one) and also check to make sure the fuse (F20 pre-9/2005 production; F37 9/2005 and on) and/or relay wasn't blown when you were priming the basket.

What year / designator is the car? R50/52/52S/53?

 

Tried the Jumper. Nothing from the pump. With luck, I can replace the fuel pump this evening.

 

I was able to get the new fuel pump in last night.
Everything is hooked up.
I attached the battery.
Nothing.
Dead.
The battery does have 12+ volts.
Any idea where to start looking?

 

I realized that the information about the patient has not been provided.
She is a 2011 R55. Hot Chocolate and goes by Holly,

 

Why are you in this section? We "speak" R50, R52, R53 here.

 

I was moved here.

 

I wonder who did that and why?

 

When you say 'hooked up the battery' do you mean you jumpered the (new) fuel pump again? Or is it connected normally with the connector. If the latter and you jumper the fuel pump and it's good (as it should be right out of the box) would next check fuel pump fuse and relay. Generically speaking a momentary spike of current when a pump fails can eat one or both of those. If your relay is integral to the interior fuse panel as it is with the late R53s/R52S's (9/2005 and onward) you may need to back probe the appropriate connectors to verify that's the issue. That's what I had to do in a recent relay failure most likely brought on by a low fuel level (never go below a 1/4 tank! ). The fuse and pump were actually both fine, so go figure...

As to the thread being moved here from the Gen 2, would just send a message via the 'Contact Us' form link at the bottom of this page and hopefully that will take care of the issue. If not you can always start a new thread.

Good luck, would be interested in knowing what the cause of the issue turns out to be.

 

Well,
The end of this journey is.
I had it towed into the shop. The fuel pump was no good, so they installed a new one. Now the filter basket had a lot of pieces of the O rings. That I don't understand.
Holly is back on the road. Now I just need to fix the dang radio squealing.

Thank you for all your comments and addition to the thread.

 

The mini is running once again.
I ended up replacing the fuel pump and the filter basket.
It seems that one of the O rings seemed to had a major come apart.
Just to be on the safe side I replace the filter basket.
No more after market parts for the fuel filter.
It is nice to be back in and driving the mini.