R55 Need Help, dead clutch pedal
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 2,104
Likes: 690
From: Cincinnati, OH
Need Help, dead clutch pedal
So i decided to bleed my brakes today with a Motive pressure bleeder, No Issues at all with that. My dumb *** watch a Youtube Video where when they changed their brake fluid they also bleed the clutch via the nipple under the transmission. So i did the same thing only alot of air came out before it went back to being a clear fluid. I made sure my pressure was at 15 psi and opened it again till it was solid fluid no bubbles at all, now i have no clutch pedal. Please help. How to i bleed the clutch to get her back?
If newTIS was still available... there would be a link here 
Suppsedly, you have to use the special tool and move the slave in and out when bleeding. Not sure why, I was under the impression it only needed to be done when replacing the slave. I always thought if you were just bleeding it out for new fluid, the special tool isn’t needed.

Suppsedly, you have to use the special tool and move the slave in and out when bleeding. Not sure why, I was under the impression it only needed to be done when replacing the slave. I always thought if you were just bleeding it out for new fluid, the special tool isn’t needed.
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 2,104
Likes: 690
From: Cincinnati, OH
If newTIS was still available... there would be a link here 
Suppsedly, you have to use the special tool and move the slave in and out when bleeding. Not sure why, I was under the impression it only needed to be done when replacing the slave. I always thought if you were just bleeding it out for new fluid, the special tool isn’t needed.

Suppsedly, you have to use the special tool and move the slave in and out when bleeding. Not sure why, I was under the impression it only needed to be done when replacing the slave. I always thought if you were just bleeding it out for new fluid, the special tool isn’t needed.
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 2,104
Likes: 690
From: Cincinnati, OH
I went out and got back under her, and I don’t see the lever that need to be pressed in like the gen 1’s have. Way or ECS maybe you guys got a trick? Doesn’t seem like this is a 1 man job.
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 2,104
Likes: 690
From: Cincinnati, OH
I seriously think I have to have a buddy in the drivers seat and have the bleeder closed with pedal up, then open it and have him push it down to floor, close it, then pull the clutch up slowly to the top and repeat it till I have it back. I knew I should have just left it alone, but the clutch did seem to get looser as I heated the brakes up so I figured why not. Well this is why not.
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 2,104
Likes: 690
From: Cincinnati, OH
What I’m finding in my searches...
Bleeding it will take two people. The way I do it is this: Gain access to the bleeder valve and crack the valve open. With the valve open have the person in the car depress the clutch pedal. When the pedal is all the way down close the bleeder, now the person can bring the clutch back up, it may have to be pulled up. Now pump the clutch pedal 5 times, and add fluid to the system. Repeat until the pedal is back to normal.
That is how I did it for about two weeks or so about a 1/2 hour a night, and went through nearly a gallon of DOT 4 and still had a spongy pedal, bubbles in the fluid and even tried pressure bleeding with the pressure tank for the brake reservoir, but still had poor results until I contacted a very nice dealership that put me on the phone with one of the mechanics who gave instructions over the phone, apparently the "secret" instructions. He told me to take a long pole such as a broomstick handle and press the clutch pedal to the floor, brace it, I used the seat with a rag on the end to not damage the leather, and "leave it overnight." I had never heard of this trick, and had exhausted all other options listed above. So I did just that, when I went to check on the clutch the next day, I removed the broom handle, the pedal was still on the floorboard, I reached down and pulled it up, I heard the usual liquid sound of fluid entering the system, but here's what I had, the pedal play was gone, it felt as if it were brand new. I have posted this on another mini site to inform all the back yard mechanics out there of this "secret technique."
Bleeding it will take two people. The way I do it is this: Gain access to the bleeder valve and crack the valve open. With the valve open have the person in the car depress the clutch pedal. When the pedal is all the way down close the bleeder, now the person can bring the clutch back up, it may have to be pulled up. Now pump the clutch pedal 5 times, and add fluid to the system. Repeat until the pedal is back to normal.
That is how I did it for about two weeks or so about a 1/2 hour a night, and went through nearly a gallon of DOT 4 and still had a spongy pedal, bubbles in the fluid and even tried pressure bleeding with the pressure tank for the brake reservoir, but still had poor results until I contacted a very nice dealership that put me on the phone with one of the mechanics who gave instructions over the phone, apparently the "secret" instructions. He told me to take a long pole such as a broomstick handle and press the clutch pedal to the floor, brace it, I used the seat with a rag on the end to not damage the leather, and "leave it overnight." I had never heard of this trick, and had exhausted all other options listed above. So I did just that, when I went to check on the clutch the next day, I removed the broom handle, the pedal was still on the floorboard, I reached down and pulled it up, I heard the usual liquid sound of fluid entering the system, but here's what I had, the pedal play was gone, it felt as if it were brand new. I have posted this on another mini site to inform all the back yard mechanics out there of this "secret technique."
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Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 2,104
Likes: 690
From: Cincinnati, OH
https://workshop-manuals.com/mini/co...ons/page_7861/
found this, and this is basically what i did, so this isnt the right way.
found this, and this is basically what i did, so this isnt the right way.
What I’m finding in my searches...
Bleeding it will take two people. The way I do it is this: Gain access to the bleeder valve and crack the valve open. With the valve open have the person in the car depress the clutch pedal. When the pedal is all the way down close the bleeder, now the person can bring the clutch back up, it may have to be pulled up. Now pump the clutch pedal 5 times, and add fluid to the system. Repeat until the pedal is back to normal.
That is how I did it for about two weeks or so about a 1/2 hour a night, and went through nearly a gallon of DOT 4 and still had a spongy pedal, bubbles in the fluid and even tried pressure bleeding with the pressure tank for the brake reservoir, but still had poor results until I contacted a very nice dealership that put me on the phone with one of the mechanics who gave instructions over the phone, apparently the "secret" instructions. He told me to take a long pole such as a broomstick handle and press the clutch pedal to the floor, brace it, I used the seat with a rag on the end to not damage the leather, and "leave it overnight." I had never heard of this trick, and had exhausted all other options listed above. So I did just that, when I went to check on the clutch the next day, I removed the broom handle, the pedal was still on the floorboard, I reached down and pulled it up, I heard the usual liquid sound of fluid entering the system, but here's what I had, the pedal play was gone, it felt as if it were brand new. I have posted this on another mini site to inform all the back yard mechanics out there of this "secret technique."
Bleeding it will take two people. The way I do it is this: Gain access to the bleeder valve and crack the valve open. With the valve open have the person in the car depress the clutch pedal. When the pedal is all the way down close the bleeder, now the person can bring the clutch back up, it may have to be pulled up. Now pump the clutch pedal 5 times, and add fluid to the system. Repeat until the pedal is back to normal.
That is how I did it for about two weeks or so about a 1/2 hour a night, and went through nearly a gallon of DOT 4 and still had a spongy pedal, bubbles in the fluid and even tried pressure bleeding with the pressure tank for the brake reservoir, but still had poor results until I contacted a very nice dealership that put me on the phone with one of the mechanics who gave instructions over the phone, apparently the "secret" instructions. He told me to take a long pole such as a broomstick handle and press the clutch pedal to the floor, brace it, I used the seat with a rag on the end to not damage the leather, and "leave it overnight." I had never heard of this trick, and had exhausted all other options listed above. So I did just that, when I went to check on the clutch the next day, I removed the broom handle, the pedal was still on the floorboard, I reached down and pulled it up, I heard the usual liquid sound of fluid entering the system, but here's what I had, the pedal play was gone, it felt as if it were brand new. I have posted this on another mini site to inform all the back yard mechanics out there of this "secret technique."
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 2,104
Likes: 690
From: Cincinnati, OH
So I finally got back around to bleeding the slave....
1. Make sure clutch is at the top and your brake fluid is full.
2. Open the bleeder and have helper push clutch all the way to the floor.
3. Close valve and have helper pull up slowly on the clutch.
4. Do this over and over, but check your brake fluid 3 or 4 times.
(while the valve was open I did tap on the slave cylinder every other time to help with air bubbles)
I did this 10 times and my clutch is now back around where it was. It was very easy by hand to push the clutch to the floor before I did this. I do have a broom out in the car right now holding the clutch down to the floor, will post tomorrow if she feels any tighter.
Sorry it to so long to do this, I caught the wife in a good mood today and finally got her help. She of course asked why I needed to bleed the clutch after I just had it changed back in January and explaining how the system works, and it flew right over her head.
1. Make sure clutch is at the top and your brake fluid is full.
2. Open the bleeder and have helper push clutch all the way to the floor.
3. Close valve and have helper pull up slowly on the clutch.
4. Do this over and over, but check your brake fluid 3 or 4 times.
(while the valve was open I did tap on the slave cylinder every other time to help with air bubbles)
I did this 10 times and my clutch is now back around where it was. It was very easy by hand to push the clutch to the floor before I did this. I do have a broom out in the car right now holding the clutch down to the floor, will post tomorrow if she feels any tighter.
Sorry it to so long to do this, I caught the wife in a good mood today and finally got her help. She of course asked why I needed to bleed the clutch after I just had it changed back in January and explaining how the system works, and it flew right over her head.
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 2,104
Likes: 690
From: Cincinnati, OH
Stick method seems to have worked. Clutch pedal feels great now. After the bleeding yesterday its almost there and had a lite feel, and now it feels solid. When I was pulling the stick out I made sure to try and let it come up as slowly as possible, mine didn’t stay on the floor. I did make sure the brake fluid was over full when the clutch was on the floor, just to make sure enough fluid was in there when the clutch came back up. Once the sun comes up I’m going to pull out any excess fluid and call it done.
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 2,104
Likes: 690
From: Cincinnati, OH
Do just the brakes and save yourself the trouble.
Necessary? That's for you to decide. The clutch hydraulics are connected to the brake reservoir, but the line is its own system. It is still susceptible to contamination over time. After reading the woes of Jason, my suggestion would be to take it to the dealer for a clutch bleed. Then, if it doesn't work right after, you can tell them to redo it.
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 2,104
Likes: 690
From: Cincinnati, OH
Necessary? That's for you to decide. The clutch hydraulics are connected to the brake reservoir, but the line is its own system. It is still susceptible to contamination over time. After reading the woes of Jason, my suggestion would be to take it to the dealer for a clutch bleed. Then, if it doesn't work right after, you can tell them to redo it.
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