1. Not fool with it at all since my clutch works great.

2. Bleed using the traditional method of pumping the clutch, opening/closing the bleeder valve.

3. Use the method shown in the youtube video by bmpdesign where you simply pump fluid IN through the clutch slave bleeder valve, forcing any air bubbles up through the resevoir. Said youtube video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdf--suwqw0

The facts: 2004 MCS with 64,000 miles.

I have spent way more time at work today than I should searching the forum for what I should do. I just got my MCS a few weeks ago, and doubt that the brake fluid has been changed so I plan on doing that this weekend. I plan on using the gravity method since I don't presently have a Motive bleeder, and I won't be in any hurry as I do it this weekend. A pressure bleeder might come later for the next job. I thought since I was doing the brakes I would do the clutch as so many others have.

I guess my main question is why option #3 wouldn't be the easiest? I guess it wouldn't really replace any of the old fluid in the clutch line, correct? Is that the reason most choose to use Option #2? It does make sense in my mind that forcing the air upwards would work better than trying to get it to come down.

If #3 is simply more for removing air and not replacing fluid, should I even attempt this if my clutch appears to work and function as it should?

I have seen a few stories on the board of folks losing their clutch after trying the bleed. I am competent at basic repairs, but don't want to get in over my head, as I am prone to do. Any suggestions would be great, and if nothing else, I will just stick with the brakes.



Reid

 

I LIKE #3, because it uses common tools and one man job . makes sense

 

The MINI clutch slave has a design flaw that always traps an air bubble. You have to use a particular tool to compress it fully, or improvise as in this video (I haven't done this myself however):http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=68PIYbXk1nc

 

...And there's more reading on this thread, with a member coming up with a novel solution:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ease-help.html

 

#1

 

I'm making a personal promise to myself to read more carefully before I post. If you aren't changing fluid or parts, I'd go with HRM; do nothing (and do no harm).

 

"If it ain't broke, don't fix it". For sure, don't try to bleed it w/o depressing the piston. If you do, you'll waste many liters of brake fluid trying to expell the air in the system. Clutch slave cylinders will usually fail in the Winter. Moisture tends to collect in the lowest part of the system (the slave cyl.) and it can freeze, rendering the system inoperable....Or, the piston seals can fail.

 

My suggestion and i did read your post.
Order the motive product pressure bleeder off amazon tonight and you will have it by friday to use for the weekend.
After I bought mine, its the only way to go. forget about using the manual methods.
For the $80, its a time saver, does the job right and you have it for life to use on all your (and friends) cars.
My 2 cents.

 

If using the motive, do you still need to compress the piston?
We changed the slave last night, but I still don't have adequate clutch "feel" (too spongy) and it is still difficult/impossible to shift.

 

If you were replacing parts and you had air in the system then you would have to use #3 and you would have to compress the piston to remove air as explained in the "How To" videos posted.

Since you just want to refresh your fluid to remove contaminants, then I see no reason why #2, traditional pumping / bleeding, wouldn't work just fine since you are not trying to remove air. Done properly this procedure should not introduce any air into the system, just refresh your fluid.

 

yes, I would so as to eliminate all potential for air to remain.

 

Don't mess with it. Mine failed and getting the air out of that thing is a royal PITA. If you are putting in a higher grade brake fluid, then yes do it, but get the correct tools. If you are bleeding it just for the sake of bleeding it, then no.