Dooms Day...i started this conversation under an old thread where i replaced my oil filter housing seals after i did the timing chain. See my posts here starting about the 6th page.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4195119


Not starting to believe this was my fault, think the dealer is going way above and beyond to recoup the money he didn't get off his first laundry list. But my problem with this whole thing is they keep charging me different diagnostic fees based on how hard it is for them to diagnose and get to the whatever they guess the problem his. I have no problem shooting me their experience of what they think it is, but how the hell can you 99% say that when you have not broke it down yet...especially on this type of thing.

 

The chance one takes doing their own work. Cam blocks are required for this job, and 2 yield bolts for CAM shaft are torqued to point of snapping off or they will eventually back out destroying the engine. Dealers do not reuse these bolts for a reason and not a job for a novis and considering the cost of an engine.....well.

So it was probably a CAM shaft bolt that came loose....not Crank Shaft as you stated in other thread. Probably just misunderstood.

Anyhow, an unfortunate pay me now or pay me later situation BP.

GL, hope it gets sorted out !




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+1 Yea the hardware should be replaced and then TTY new on the bolts. We have them in our kits.

Sorry to hear this. Just stinks.

 

Actually it was a new bolt...it just dawned on me who you were ECSTuning. I got the kit from DetroitTuned. And it was an ASE Certified mechanic that did the work, just in my garage. I wonder if I can file that under the claim. Cause now with all the history with this dealership...aint no way i'm gonna get them to cave. So to a third party i go. Man the labor of love, another damn recall in the making.

 

" .it just dawned on me who you were ECSTuning " Yea we are here Its ok


Yea we have the hardware in our kits. So it was maybe not torqued to spec or something to back out then.

I would have an indi shop do it who has done BMW's / MINI 's in the past.

 

but the more that i think about it, if that bolt came out or loose, no compression would be the least of my problems that so called lead up to needing a head job wouldn't it. But again ironically when i got there to hear the BS, the bolt wouldn't budge. And again that was an educated guess he said and could't be 100% sure until it was tore down which was a 9 hr chargeable fee. I still have not got the quote. But i think i am going to take everyone's advice and find a indie shop that specializes in mini's.

 

9/10 times when the engine jumps time it's the exhaust valves that make contact.

So if they can use a boroscope and show you valve contact on the pistons then they have a compelling argument as to you needing to have the head removed and new valves installed.

Have they given you compression numbers, or leak down numbers, have they showed you the timing blocks on the cams and the lock in the crank?

You need to be shown visual proof of their diagnosis.

 

of course they did none of that. they wanted to charge me an extra $1000 on top of the $299 regular diagnostic fee to see if their head job guess was right. That was the last straw for me so i had it towed to an indie shop.

 

At the Indie shop; have them boroscope the cylinders before trying to crank the engine, if there is evidence of exhaust valve contact to the pistons then you are in for a head rebuild.

If there isn't clearly visible valve contact then move on to a compression & leak down test.